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pictures of brake duct cooler finnaly mounted on bigislands7's fd

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Old 02-04-04, 12:54 PM
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pictures of brake duct cooler finnaly mounted on bigislands7's fd

holy crap the klingon death grips are installed

just kidding, here are some pictures of the brake duct cooler i made finnaly mounted on bigislands7's fd
and yes that is carbonfiber

as for fitment, david has told me that there was a very small fitment issue but i think i can work this out very easily by drilling the holds a bit bigger. on another note, these ducts were lighter then a stock fd's brake sheilds

enjoy

Note: this was the first proto type and to tell you the truth, i did not even know if they would be close to fitting. lucky they do fit fairly well and all others will be made with full double layer CF as fitment does not seem to be that much of a problem.















Last edited by skunks; 02-04-04 at 01:06 PM.
Old 02-04-04, 01:09 PM
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wow those came out way better than i thought they would.
Old 02-04-04, 01:12 PM
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Nice friggin rotors! Clean those bastards!!!,, Oh wait that's me Ahhhh!!! That's what happens after a year and a half of sitting in Hawaii air. Thanks again Skunks!!
Old 02-04-04, 01:15 PM
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nothing a little resurfacing wont fix. btw those look awesome.
Old 02-04-04, 01:18 PM
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One good press of the pedal huh. Nah, I'm going to get a new set fromthe Rx7store before the car rolls again.( Maybe after taxes?)
Old 02-04-04, 01:20 PM
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so is the price still the same at $150
Old 02-04-04, 01:35 PM
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hmmm, well im not seeing how these cool the brakes. im assuming there is ducting that that meets up with the stock lip that feeds that tube or someting right?? also (excuse me for being a skeptic ) but im not so sure that it would do that much cooling seeing as the air hitting the rear face of the rotor wont "pick up" much heat... i could see if there were a jet of air that shoots through the blades in the middle of the rotor, but even then, it would be hard to get the air past those blades since theyd be spinning so fast. to me it seems the only option is to get larger rotors, and thicker rotors to dissapate more heat. also, something else i was thinking was, when its raining wont the intake pick up water and shoot it through the piping to hte back of your rotor constantly spraying it, and the pads w/ water causing you to not be able to stop? just some things i was pondering........
Old 02-04-04, 01:36 PM
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Thats where the air comes out at least 75% of it is going to the cooling vains where the stock ducts bring air to. And a hose will eventually hook up to the front bumper and ram air into the ducts.There is hardly any air hitting the rotor face directly. About 25% will go to the hub area to help cool the wheel bearings. ( This is eventually going to be a "Targa" Race car, and open track car.As far as water ...I think I would have to drive thru a pretty big rainstorm to get waterall the way thru the hose. It really won't be that much more water to the brakes than the stock ducts.. Crawl under your car and look at the inside of the backing plate. The bottom is bent inward somemore to pick up air and feed the cooling vains. And this is still the experimental stage. It may not work worth a **** And i may end up ripping it off. But the theory is there so I'll give it a shot and see what happens.

Last edited by BigIslandSevens; 02-04-04 at 01:44 PM.
Old 02-04-04, 01:43 PM
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oh wait.... i just remembered that there are inlets to all the veins on hte back of the rotor arent there? only thing concerning me now is the rain.... besides that id happily take a set! just curious: anyone know if these would work/fit fine w/ the 99 spec brake rotors/calipers? -heath
Old 02-04-04, 01:58 PM
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nice work
Old 02-04-04, 03:03 PM
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Good work skunks.

On your second prototype I would increase the size and shape of the air inlet to the backing plate.
Old 02-04-04, 03:09 PM
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carbon fiber
Old 02-04-04, 03:11 PM
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Clayne......We thought about going with a three inch hole but that would allow too much air to hit the rotor face directly. Thus increasing the chance of warpage or cracking. But in a race type situation, one may not be to worried with the cost of rotors and want the benefit of cooler less fade breaks instead. There is always a give and take with things you do. We'll see. I am going to mount these on another FD here and get some before and after temps with the stock ducting and the new style we/he created. I will use my laser temp gun that i use for measuring header temps and such. We'll see. Maybe this weekend if I can get the other car here.
Old 02-04-04, 05:16 PM
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can this be used on the 99 brakes/rotors?
Old 02-04-04, 05:33 PM
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wow, thats nice. Good job with the fabrication it looks awesome. I wish I had a set
Old 02-04-04, 05:47 PM
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Originally posted by RotorMotor
can this be used on the 99 brakes/rotors?
I would imagine so. I don't think the 99 bolt pattern for the backing plates is different.( not sure though) If you mean the 99 bumper...i think any bumper will work but require some fabbing for the ducting hose. How big is the 99 rotor? i will have to measure mine again. I can't remember off the top of my head.
Old 02-05-04, 12:40 AM
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unfortunatly i dont remember... but the 99 rotor is wider as well.
Old 02-05-04, 12:51 AM
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I actually trimmed some of the material to fit the rotor better. Probably about an inch or so of material got cut off. You could just have extra material on the top and bottom and trim to fit. Shouldn't be a problem. I don't think anyways.
Old 02-05-04, 05:41 PM
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well i think id be interested in a set if it came with the piping from wherever the brake duct intake is... arent there only brake intakes on the R1 & 99 wpec lip?
Old 02-05-04, 07:07 PM
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BIS,

Motec sells an IR temp sensor.

You mount it to the chassis and log voltages.
Old 02-05-04, 07:31 PM
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Maybe I missed something, but what is the reason why you need all that extra cooling for the brakes? Do you track your car regularly?
Personally I would be more concerned with fixing the wheel well that looks like a wild dog chewed through it. The wheel well actually plays an important role in the aerodynamics of the car.
Old 02-05-04, 08:00 PM
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Originally posted by clayne
BIS,

Motec sells an IR temp sensor.

You mount it to the chassis and log voltages.
While your running? This would be far more effecient for measureing temps while braking.. Trex.... It's not tracked regularly because we have NO regular track. However that is going to be the primary purpose for the car when it is finished. As for the comment about the wild dogg!!!...It was actually a wild bore!! Those liners will be replaced as well as the brake rotors, pads, all suspension bushings,etc...The purpose for more cooloing to the brake rotors is to prevent brake fade while out running on the track Day or in a race. Also this is just something to do and try whilke the car is down.
Old 02-05-04, 08:00 PM
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Double post

Last edited by BigIslandSevens; 02-05-04 at 08:04 PM.
Old 02-05-04, 08:00 PM
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Triple post.Damit, i only hit enter once!!

Last edited by BigIslandSevens; 02-05-04 at 08:07 PM.
Old 02-05-04, 08:12 PM
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Originally posted by BigIslandSevens
While your running? This would be far more effecient for measureing temps while braking..
It would require you to use a logger of some sort.

If you have datalogit you can use the sensor input in place of another sensor and log that.

Then translate the voltage per the specs.

http://www.motec.com/catalog.htm


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