gdnimr0d

iTrader: (4)

okay guys i have the slide hammer and the hub puller kit and i attached it to my hub and i tightened the slide hammer and started hammering away but i have had no luck removing the hub is there some nut or bold i forgot to unscrew or something please help.... here is a pic

gdnimr0d

iTrader: (4)

can anyone help PLEASE!

gdnimr0d

iTrader: (4)

doesnt anyone know how to remove that damn hub ????

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

I've removed the front hubs but never the rear. Finding that huge socket was the biggest pia for me. Once the big bolt is off I think mine came right off and if they didn't most likely I just used a block of wood and hammer (my favorite two tools). I really don't remember so I doubt mine were that difficult.

Did you do a search?

gdnimr0d

iTrader: (4)

yeah i have searched forever and now i have that tool specifically designed for removing my hub and the hub wont budge at all

drewroman

this might help you some if you haven't looked at it already...


http://iluvmyrx7.com/3rdgen/manuals/93%20manual/(M)front_and_rear_axles.pdf

specifically pages M-10 and M-11, talks about putting an extra nut on there and giving it a little persuasion with a hammer....

gdnimr0d

iTrader: (4)

yeah i already looked there and it doesnt specifically explain how to remove just the hub that holds the studs

Hroop

Note sure if its the same a GM rear end but did you undo the c clips inside the pumkin???

gdnimr0d

iTrader: (4)

umm what the hell are the C clips inside the pumpkin and what the hell is the pumpkin....got any pics or could you put it in lamens terms

TitaniumCranium

iTrader: (3)

Hrood means that the axles are held in the diff by a C-clip (it is a clip in the shape of a "C"). I dont know if that is he case because I have never had my diff apart. I will check my manual for the procedure and let you know

TitaniumCranium

iTrader: (3)

Wait..what are you trying to do?

DamonB

You can't get the spindle (hub) off with a slide hammer. The spindle is pressed into the rear wheel bearing and the entire upright must be taken to a machine shop to have the spindle pressed out. This destroys the wheel bearing so you will need a new one. There is no other way to do it so son't waste your time.

Rear wheel stud replacement on the FD

Detbyron

Need to do the same thing.

gdnimr0d - did you get this done, I'd like a full report

DamonB - do you remember your experience at the machine shop?
- How the heck did they use the press with the entire axle in the way?
- Did they use good fixtures for pressing the bearing in and out, or did they just use anything that would work? (I'm worried that damage could result).

The dealer quoted me 2.5 hours for this, but it'll probably take longer, and they'll probably f it up.

DamonB

Yep.

They first pressed the axle out of the spindle since I couldn't get it out myself. They basically just dropped the axle down through a "hole" in their fixture and supported it from behind the wheel bearing. We already knew the bearing must be replaced so the only parts to be careful with were the spindle and hub itself. They heated the spindle with a torch and then pressed the axle out. The torch is the key. I have since done the other side too and after a few minutes of heating the axle can be hammered out of the spindle with some heavy blows. Be careful! Then I just take the whole upright down there.


Yeah; no trouble. Any decent machine shop will be able to do it as the wheel bearings are fairly large and aren't a problem. Usually it's the real small stuff (rear toe link bushings for example) that scare some shops. Any REAL machine shop that does engine work etc will have no trouble at all.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

i just did the whole deal... some axles will come out by hammering on them some won't. mine wouldn't budge so i took them in to my suspension guy. he said the key was soaking them w penetrant overnight.... then they came out easily w his press and some heat. 1 hour labor.

the axles pop out of the rear gear housing but i needed a big crow bar which made it was easy. i couldn't do it w a big screw driver.

if you are doing both sides it is an opportunity to pitch the brake rotor shields. you will need 2 bearings. call ray crowe at malloy for the cheapest price around.

howard coleman

MakoRacing

iTrader: (12)

Nice Koni's if I do say.

Detbyron

ok - I don't want to make any assumptions here.

DamonB - you make references to the "spindle", but I don't think it is referenced in the shop manual.

Moreover, the shop manual seems to say to pull the "rear hub support assembly" off of the axle by using an extra bolt (not sure where the bolt goes).
Here is a picture from the shop manual. Can you please indicate where the spindle is?

Thanks for all your help!!!

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

the "spindle" is the only unamed part in that section of the manual! so your question isn't inappropriate. the spindle is the major aluminum component at the outboard end of each axle. the upper control arm bolts to it. the lower latitudinal link bolts to it, the axle sticks thru it, the toe link bolts to it, and the hub (that's the piece that holds the wheel studs and brake rotor) is pressed into it. the spindle is also often called an "upright."

good luck,

howard coleman

DamonB

It doesn't much matter but according to Mazda part sheets the spindle is the circular piece that holds the wheel studs and is pressed into the wheel bearing. The upright (or hub carrier) is the aluminum suspension piece the wheel bearing is pressed into and to which the control arms attach.

Many people would also call the spindle a hub and the large nut on the end of the drive axle the hub nut rather than the axle nut. I try to use terms Mazda uses but it's all the same thing. The machinist will understand you

BoOsTin FD

ups, wrong thread