3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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Old 08-02-13, 07:17 AM
  #26  
TANSTAFL

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One thing that I noticed and haven't seen mentioned in this thread is the difference between Aluminum and Steel motor mount arms. When swapping to steel to run poly mounts, we noticed that there was a nub missing on the steel arm that was present on the Aluminum arm. It appeared to provide an extra point of contact to hold down the pan. My father was able to quickly turn a nub on his lathe which we JB welded in place to the arm after checking fitment.

I don't know how critical this was, but I can say that my pan was bone dry... well until I ran that HPDE w/o a catch can, but that's unrelated.
Old 08-02-13, 12:57 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by alexdimen
One thing that I noticed and haven't seen mentioned in this thread is the difference between Aluminum and Steel motor mount arms. When swapping to steel to run poly mounts, we noticed that there was a nub missing on the steel arm that was present on the Aluminum arm. It appeared to provide an extra point of contact to hold down the pan. My father was able to quickly turn a nub on his lathe which we JB welded in place to the arm after checking fitment.

I don't know how critical this was, but I can say that my pan was bone dry... well until I ran that HPDE w/o a catch can, but that's unrelated.
On some blocks there are a couple extra threaded holes for the oil pan on the block of which one is underneath that aluminum motor mount "nub" you mention... you can drill a hole in the pan and add another bolt there if using the steel mount or if you shave off the nub off the aluminum mount. If running a Banzai brace you will need to drill a hole in that too.

I wonder how many oil pans are leaking from that location because of a steel motor mount with no nub or bolt.
Old 02-10-17, 08:27 PM
  #28  
2SoonJr

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so whats the update on a good sealant for the oil pan that sees fuel and oil ?? or is Hondabond still the only way to go at this time.

thank you.
Old 02-10-17, 11:42 PM
  #29  
half ass 2 or whole ass 1

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ive been using ultra black from permatex for a few years now and am leak free.
Old 02-11-17, 04:09 PM
  #30  
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If you want to re-use the sheet metal piece of rubbish oil pan, 3 bond super seal, which is basically the Honda, Yamaha and Mazda sealant, seems to be the best.

Down here, a few replace the pan each time to minimize the likelihood of leaking, personally, I fabricated a pan out of aluminium, no braces, centre-punching or our father prayers to recite in the hope of getting a decent seal!
Old 02-11-17, 04:56 PM
  #31  
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Arrow

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...mports-842163/

Last edited by Sgtblue; 02-11-17 at 05:02 PM.
Old 02-11-17, 10:03 PM
  #32  
Just Boosting

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Thank you sir.
Old 02-11-17, 10:24 PM
  #33  
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Anyone got experience with the Built 2 Apex aluminum oil pan? I know they make one for the FC and they are releasing one for the FD as well.

Built 2 Apex
Old 02-11-17, 11:26 PM
  #34  
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AZ

Originally Posted by hadokenny
Anyone got experience with the Built 2 Apex aluminum oil pan? I know they make one for the FC and they are releasing one for the FD as well.

Built 2 Apex
I am sure their product will be great but this pan is fantastic and available now. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-fd3s-1105611/
Old 02-18-17, 05:52 PM
  #35  
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Glad I read this as about to put my 20b pan back on this week, think I'll give hondabond a go, had already brought permatex to lol...
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