Leeroy_25

Okay.. So I was pretty sure my sender unit had packed up as this is common on the FD3. So I got another good used one to put on and it's exactly the same.. The needle sits at zero. With a high rev it just starts to move. Plenty of pressure as I have a mechanical gauge on it.
It was working a while ago but gradually stopped. My tach was also dudd until I resoldered and fixed this recently. Is it likely the oil pressure gauge has the same issue and this needs some replacement components or a resolder? Anyone done this before or had this issue and it not been the sender?

Cheers
Lee

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Check the electrical connection. If its solid get a brand new sender. I've had cars where I've tried 2 or
3 used ones and they didn't read correctly.

Taylor_Jalopmeets

iTrader: (1)

Check the wiring before you tear anything apart. I had the same issue and it turned out to be a wire had come undone under the hood. Simple fix.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

I had this happen on my FC when I installed a bad oil pressure sender that was internally shorted.

That sender pegged my oil temp gauge needle and the shaft spun in the needle.

After that with a good sensor I had the same issue as you. The needle sat at 0 and would only move up a hair with lots of pressure.

I had to take the needle off the shaft and put it back on at 0.

Check everything else before taking your cluster apart and pulling the needle off- things could go wrong.

You would probably know if you had pegged the needle at max with a bad sensor.

Leeroy_25

I have never noticed the needle stick at max? It was reading a bit a while ago. I have had the cluster in a d out a few times sorting out a tach that was going scatty. Then when I fixed that and put it all back in noticed the oil gauge reading zero and maybe moving a bit with a high rev? Hence I am more inclined to think it is the gauge end. The sender I bought was supposed to be working and reads flat zero too. I would be surprised if two senders read zero. Any way I can check the gauge with a battery, ground or circuit tester remotely?

Leeroy_25

I did some searching online to try and see if there was a way to check my gauge and sender on the car. So I have the sender I took off. A spare in a box of bits and a used one I bought told to be in good working order. The one that came off read 0 pressure at idle and with a high rev the gauge was moving a bit. Put on the good new one and it was the same. Seems to me it is unlikely it is sender but won't rule it out. So I took all 3 senders. and got a 12v battery and touched the body on the -ve terminal and put a test light on the spade connection and +ve. this should give a light as I have been told? My two gave nothing. The good spare I got a dull light on the tester. I also understand there should be a resistance reading which should alter as pressure goes up? My two senders gave no reading which I presume means an open circuit? the good one gave around 90 ohms I think it was? I tried to blow air in to get it to change but I didn't have enough control on the air line. So am I correct thinking the two senders I have are dead and the good one looks more positive? How can I now test the gauge. If I earth the connector that fits on the sender to the chassis should the gauge shoot to max? I assume it will be at zero with the light on if disconnected? or is it the other way around?
Please let me know so I can try and check the gauge and wiring next.

Thank you
Lee