Oil leak issue Again, ofcourse
03-29-04, 12:25 PM
#1
Oil leak issue Again, ofcourse
Alright guys I know this has been discussed alot I have done some search as well but can't really figure out exactly the issue. My point is I'm wanting to start this thread in hopes that people can upload pix of the "usual" or "common" areas of the leaks. I know there is a leak occuring on the turbo. I see smoke coming out behind the UIM, the area between the UIM and the firewall. As well as from the turbo side. Can someone point out the usual areas so the problem can be solved easier? I'm sure many will find this thread useful.
03-29-04, 04:10 PM
#4
il Cosa Nostra e vivo!!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Dove le cose sono fatte il vecchio moda il senso
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It may be that one of the Oil inlet lines (one per Turbo) is loose and thus leaking. Another possibility is that one of the oil lines going out of the Turbos (gravity drop, one per Turbo from underneath) and into the block may be loose as well. So there are 6 seperate areas an external oil leak can develope on the Turbo assembly, not including the main engine inlet oil supply line that connects to the Turbo oil supply line.
Just check under the car and see if you find evidence of oil stained Turbos and/or oil stained block.
Just check under the car and see if you find evidence of oil stained Turbos and/or oil stained block.
Last edited by areXseven; 03-29-04 at 04:13 PM.
03-29-04, 04:39 PM
#5
Old Rotary Dog
Common areas for oil leaks:
- the turbo supply likes
- the oil pan.
- the engine motor mounts (bolts pass through oil passages)
- the O-rings at the base of the filter pedestal.
- the rear bearing (you will see oil coming out of the access plate on the bell housing).
One thing to note is that any oil that seeps down to the cross member tends to then be blown back onto the plate beneith the tranny and from there onto the cat. A small seep can actually cause quite a bit of smoke that will travel up the transmission tunnel and come out from between the firewall and the UIM.
Often it is difficult to tell the origin of the oil leak because of this. Clean everything off with some degreaser and keep checking to try and determine the source of the leak.
-bill
- the turbo supply likes
- the oil pan.
- the engine motor mounts (bolts pass through oil passages)
- the O-rings at the base of the filter pedestal.
- the rear bearing (you will see oil coming out of the access plate on the bell housing).
One thing to note is that any oil that seeps down to the cross member tends to then be blown back onto the plate beneith the tranny and from there onto the cat. A small seep can actually cause quite a bit of smoke that will travel up the transmission tunnel and come out from between the firewall and the UIM.
Often it is difficult to tell the origin of the oil leak because of this. Clean everything off with some degreaser and keep checking to try and determine the source of the leak.
-bill
03-29-04, 11:45 PM
#7
Originally posted by areXseven
It may be that one of the Oil inlet lines (one per Turbo) is loose and thus leaking. Another possibility is that one of the oil lines going out of the Turbos (gravity drop, one per Turbo from underneath) and into the block may be loose as well. So there are 6 seperate areas an external oil leak can develope on the Turbo assembly, not including the main engine inlet oil supply line that connects to the Turbo oil supply line.
Just check under the car and see if you find evidence of oil stained Turbos and/or oil stained block.
It may be that one of the Oil inlet lines (one per Turbo) is loose and thus leaking. Another possibility is that one of the oil lines going out of the Turbos (gravity drop, one per Turbo from underneath) and into the block may be loose as well. So there are 6 seperate areas an external oil leak can develope on the Turbo assembly, not including the main engine inlet oil supply line that connects to the Turbo oil supply line.
Just check under the car and see if you find evidence of oil stained Turbos and/or oil stained block.
Trending Topics
03-29-04, 11:49 PM
#8
Originally posted by wrankin
Common areas for oil leaks:
- the turbo supply likes
- the oil pan.
- the engine motor mounts (bolts pass through oil passages)
- the O-rings at the base of the filter pedestal.
- the rear bearing (you will see oil coming out of the access plate on the bell housing).
One thing to note is that any oil that seeps down to the cross member tends to then be blown back onto the plate beneith the tranny and from there onto the cat. A small seep can actually cause quite a bit of smoke that will travel up the transmission tunnel and come out from between the firewall and the UIM.
Often it is difficult to tell the origin of the oil leak because of this. Clean everything off with some degreaser and keep checking to try and determine the source of the leak.
-bill
Common areas for oil leaks:
- the turbo supply likes
- the oil pan.
- the engine motor mounts (bolts pass through oil passages)
- the O-rings at the base of the filter pedestal.
- the rear bearing (you will see oil coming out of the access plate on the bell housing).
One thing to note is that any oil that seeps down to the cross member tends to then be blown back onto the plate beneith the tranny and from there onto the cat. A small seep can actually cause quite a bit of smoke that will travel up the transmission tunnel and come out from between the firewall and the UIM.
Often it is difficult to tell the origin of the oil leak because of this. Clean everything off with some degreaser and keep checking to try and determine the source of the leak.
-bill
03-30-04, 12:22 AM
#9
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Bellevue, WA, USA
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by wrankin
Common areas for oil leaks:
One thing to note is that any oil that seeps down to the cross member tends to then be blown back onto the plate beneith the tranny and from there onto the cat. A small seep can actually cause quite a bit of smoke that will travel up the transmission tunnel and come out from between the firewall and the UIM.
Often it is difficult to tell the origin of the oil leak because of this. Clean everything off with some degreaser and keep checking to try and determine the source of the leak.
-bill
Common areas for oil leaks:
One thing to note is that any oil that seeps down to the cross member tends to then be blown back onto the plate beneith the tranny and from there onto the cat. A small seep can actually cause quite a bit of smoke that will travel up the transmission tunnel and come out from between the firewall and the UIM.
Often it is difficult to tell the origin of the oil leak because of this. Clean everything off with some degreaser and keep checking to try and determine the source of the leak.
-bill
I had an engine rebuilt just a few weeks ago which I had hoped would cure this problem, but alas after taking a 2000 mile trip last week the problem is still there.
Is there a danger of actually causing a fire this way?
03-30-04, 12:37 PM
#10
Old Rotary Dog
Originally posted by SWAT81
thanks for the info Bill, I'm a little confused on what you mean by "cross member" though
thanks for the info Bill, I'm a little confused on what you mean by "cross member" though
-bill
03-30-04, 01:14 PM
#11
il Cosa Nostra e vivo!!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Dove le cose sono fatte il vecchio moda il senso
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by SWAT81
there is definitely oil stains under the turbo and the whole right side but no oil leak on the engine block. Wish someone would upload pix, would you recommand just trying to tighten all the oil lines?
there is definitely oil stains under the turbo and the whole right side but no oil leak on the engine block. Wish someone would upload pix, would you recommand just trying to tighten all the oil lines?
The two "outlet" oil lines each have a flange with two 10mm nuts. The flange/nuts are located directly beneath the Turbos on the Bearing Housing. Those are a little easier to get to. If you follow those lines to the Block you'll see the flanges/nuts secured to the Block. The Block flange in the rear is easy to get to, but the Block flange located in the front will require a ittle more skill and patience. Might make the job a little easier if you use 1/4" ratchet, extension, universal swivel adapter with 10mm socket. Good Luck.
-Jimmy
03-30-04, 03:04 PM
#14
il Cosa Nostra e vivo!!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Dove le cose sono fatte il vecchio moda il senso
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by SWAT81
exactly how many of you guys had this problem solved after tightening the bolts and oil lines? is it possible to just replace these oil lines and perhaps the oil leaks wont occur anymore due to new washers?
exactly how many of you guys had this problem solved after tightening the bolts and oil lines? is it possible to just replace these oil lines and perhaps the oil leaks wont occur anymore due to new washers?
Bottom line is that they need to be tightened pretty good.
03-31-04, 06:50 AM
#16
il Cosa Nostra e vivo!!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Dove le cose sono fatte il vecchio moda il senso
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by SWAT81
hmmm alright then perhaps on a nice day out I will take out my intakes and heat shield off to take a looksie
hmmm alright then perhaps on a nice day out I will take out my intakes and heat shield off to take a looksie
03-31-04, 04:01 PM
#18
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: st louis
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just did some of this over the weekend. the secondary oil supply bolt is accesable from the top w/o removing the heat shield and I'm pretty sure the primary is too. I don't know if you could replace the washers though.
03-31-04, 04:12 PM
#19
R1derful
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: N Cali
Posts: 702
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you're having trouble isolating the source of the leak, you can try this:
1) Clean all suspected leak locations thoroughly.
2) Spray the locations with aerosol athletes foot spray/jock itch or aerosol powder deodorant.
When the oil comes out, it will turn the powder into a gray syrup.
I used the above method to locate an oil leak on an engine that I had just rebuit. The leak was driving me crazy!
Here is a pic of the spray after I covered the head/block mating surface (piston engine).
I was 99% certain that it was the headgasket. I was wrong. The leak was actually where the oil pump met the block. The spray helped me find it after pulling my hair out for about a month!
Sonny
1) Clean all suspected leak locations thoroughly.
2) Spray the locations with aerosol athletes foot spray/jock itch or aerosol powder deodorant.
When the oil comes out, it will turn the powder into a gray syrup.
I used the above method to locate an oil leak on an engine that I had just rebuit. The leak was driving me crazy!
Here is a pic of the spray after I covered the head/block mating surface (piston engine).
I was 99% certain that it was the headgasket. I was wrong. The leak was actually where the oil pump met the block. The spray helped me find it after pulling my hair out for about a month!
Sonny
03-31-04, 06:14 PM
#21
Powered by** Rotary
Originally posted by SWAT81
exactly how many of you guys had this problem solved after tightening the bolts and oil lines? is it possible to just replace these oil lines and perhaps the oil leaks wont occur anymore due to new washers?
exactly how many of you guys had this problem solved after tightening the bolts and oil lines? is it possible to just replace these oil lines and perhaps the oil leaks wont occur anymore due to new washers?
I had a leak at the top of the turbo. The oil line that goes from one turbo to another. It's not hard to get to it if you remove the y-pipe, no need to remove the shield in my case. Also, I wouldn't tighten that too much, Cause i broke 2 of those screws. The best thing would be to get those copper washers and replace them, they are around 40c at the car quest stores. Those damn screws are so soft it's like they are made of plastic or something. Probably because they have holes in them
Anyway, it shouldn't take you more then 30 minutes to replace washers, unless you brake one of them or something goes wrong.
Amel
03-31-04, 11:30 PM
#23
Originally posted by Sonny
If you're having trouble isolating the source of the leak, you can try this:
1) Clean all suspected leak locations thoroughly.
2) Spray the locations with aerosol athletes foot spray/jock itch or aerosol powder deodorant.
When the oil comes out, it will turn the powder into a gray syrup.
I used the above method to locate an oil leak on an engine that I had just rebuit. The leak was driving me crazy!
Here is a pic of the spray after I covered the head/block mating surface (piston engine).
I was 99% certain that it was the headgasket. I was wrong. The leak was actually where the oil pump met the block. The spray helped me find it after pulling my hair out for about a month!
Sonny
If you're having trouble isolating the source of the leak, you can try this:
1) Clean all suspected leak locations thoroughly.
2) Spray the locations with aerosol athletes foot spray/jock itch or aerosol powder deodorant.
When the oil comes out, it will turn the powder into a gray syrup.
I used the above method to locate an oil leak on an engine that I had just rebuit. The leak was driving me crazy!
Here is a pic of the spray after I covered the head/block mating surface (piston engine).
I was 99% certain that it was the headgasket. I was wrong. The leak was actually where the oil pump met the block. The spray helped me find it after pulling my hair out for about a month!
Sonny
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM
