TheWoganSleeve

How do i make sure all the oil is out the rex before i put new in? Ie turbos etc

And am i ok to use engine flush on this bad boy?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

I don't think the cooler(s) drain well if at all. My car will drain for a long time before it drips. When it begins to drip, I put the plug back in. Since I can't ever get ALL the oil out, I'm just careful to change it regularly and use a quality filter.

TheWoganSleeve

Ah right, im thinking of getting some 3 $ a gallon oil in once drained, frun it on that for a few miles then, drain that stuff off, change filter then put the good stuff in.

Does anyone know how to drain the oil coolers off?

And what about the engine flush?

cozmo kraemer

Where do you find ANY oil for $3 a gallon? Price of oil is pretty high lately. I think as long as you change at regular (shortish) intervals, and use a good filter, you should be fine was the small amount of oil the coolers retain.

To get them to drain better you can jack the car so the front end is as high as possible. The siphon should pull as much oil out as possible if the thermostat in the lines is open. So I guess you would have to do it when the engine is pretty hot to get the most oil out of the system...

DaveW

Why would you do that? Then you're left with some super-cheap oil that can't be drained.

Don't get paranoid on the oil changes. Just change every 2000 miles or so like everyone says, and you'll be fine!

TheWoganSleeve

ASDA UK does 2,97p a gallon, i used to use it to do a pre drain on minis before i put the good stuff in, i love the thought of a very clean engine.

I think a bit of cheap oil mixed in with the good stuff will be better than contaminated old stuff, the old stuff will still be mixed with engine flush too,

Any comments on engine flush?

What about magnetic sump plugs? Waste of money?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

IMO, I think you'll be wasting your time. Most of the sludge will be at the bottom of the pan where you'll be draining. Yes, there will be some oil left over in the coolers, but the majority of the settlements will be in the pan and the filter.

I would just drain the current oil, change the filter, add your new good oil and call it done. No need to get obsessed with it.

TheWoganSleeve

Sludgetastic, cheers mate.

bajaman

Engine 'flushing' products are usually not recommended, to answer that part of your original post. They have a tendancy to dissolve sludge very inconsistently, often causing more problems than you were trying to alleviate.

danny hahn

You are potentially harming your vehicle by being retentive about removing the last bit of oil. Get over it. Consider being retentive about changing oil and checking air filter every 3,000m, checking your plugs every 2nd oil change, and cleaning injectors and replacing fuel filter every 1,000 gals.

TheWoganSleeve

boys

I dont think im ever going to be able to let this go, im obsessed and i really need help, its an unhealthy interest in clean rotors which stems back from my puppy getting run over when i was 5 and my dad buried it in the back garden, for weeks i tried to dig it back up with a spoon from the kitchen as i thought it was still alive and living like a fraggle or it was going to grow into a dog tree, i cant really remember it was a long time ago.

Cheers for the advice

vtakk eg

what is this good stuff you are talking aboout(good oil) what is the good oil and what viscosity is recomended or should i use , also if the good stuff isnt available at advanced auto what is the best availble there

rynberg

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