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OEM R1/R2 Dual Oil Cooler Install Help (I searched)

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Old 05-01-15, 07:50 PM
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OEM R1/R2 Dual Oil Cooler Install Help (I searched)

Hi all, I was wondering if you could help me out. I'm trying to install the OEM dual oil coolers and I've searched but couldn't find the answer.

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Is all that I received so I assume I need new gaskets. Looking at



Which part numbers will I need? 99582-2200 and 14-6041? And what quantity? Also, the little retainer clips seen here



Do I just slip the male end into the female end and put the spring clip in the grooves to hold the lines in place?

Thanks everyone!
Old 05-01-15, 08:25 PM
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That is exactly right with the clips. It slides into the slot on the female end. What you will need is the rubber washers for the fittings that go from the lines into the oil coolers and new crush washers for the banjo bolts that go into the motor. When I installed mine I actually retained the oem line that went to the back of the motor cause it's the same for both single and dual. You just unclip the fittings with a pick tool or small flathead and put the dual one on.

You don't want to reuse those crush washers for the banjo bolts or you will have leaks. If you do what I did for the rear motor line you would only need to do the banjo bolt that goes into the front cover.
Old 05-01-15, 08:30 PM
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99582-1800 x 2 (or x 4 if you are replacing the factory line 14-7201 in the illustration with the one from the dual setup. But its the same exact line you already have so its easier just to unclip the single oil cooler line and snap in the dual oil cooler line.)

Last edited by RobertC; 05-01-15 at 08:34 PM.
Old 05-01-15, 08:34 PM
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Strike that. You do not need the 14-702 part numbers (rubber washers for the oil coolers to the lines) if there are no leaks when you get it installed from that point, you are good! Just the copper crush washer for the banjo bolts and it looks like you have everything, you will need 6 spring clips if you have all that, you are good to go and you could always reuse the clips off your old setup to help you save a little
Old 05-01-15, 09:17 PM
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Point of interest. . .If you don't know the history and condition of the coolers you are installing, you might want to have them rebuilt prior to installation. I think American Cooler Service in Texas still does these. They did mine back in 2007 and made them like new.
Old 05-02-15, 09:11 AM
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Thanks, so I can just snap the lines together without the washers and not worry about leaks? I just need washers for the banjo bolts?

I was led to believe they came off a car when the PO upgraded. Thanks for the tip though.
Old 05-02-15, 09:16 AM
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Yes. There are no washers or o rings that I remember on the male/female line fittings. The only places where there are orings or washers are at the contact between the fittings on the oil coolers themselves (those fittings haven't been removed so you're good there). And the banjo bolts.

I learned the hard way to always replace the washers on those when you take it off or anything. Otherwise you will have problems with leaking.
Old 05-02-15, 10:57 AM
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If you have an aftermarket radiator, particularly a Koyo, be ready to wrestle around a little bit.
It WILL fit tho. Patience young Jedi!

Also, a lot of people seem to not include the return line (the one that goes from the 2nd cooler back to the engine) when they sell these. It looks like you got one and your good to go...I'm guessing the 2nd cooler is the one already on your car..?
Old 05-02-15, 12:29 PM
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The Driver's side cooler is already on the car, the dual oil cooler adds the longer hardlines that connect the driver's cooler to the passenger's cooler, the passenger cooler itself, and a different line that goes into the front cover.

The line that goes to the back of the motor is the exact same on both setups, there is a spring clip that holds that on, you can reuse the line present if you want to save from having to tear down the drivers side of the motor to get to that line and replace it.

For the automatics, the passenger's side opening was occupied by the transmission cooler.

I never had an issue with getting this in place with the koyo in my car. The hard lines run along the factory core support that the radiator mounts on the bottom side of it, you just need to bolt the two brackets on the hard lines to the car after you get them in place (They are kindof like hangers that you can bolt in place). The chassis already comes with the pre tapped bolt hole for the passenger's side so you just have to bolt it in.
Old 05-02-15, 01:19 PM
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I do have a Koyo, and I removed the bumper to make the job easier. It's not by any means my primary car so I'll make sure to take my time. I had to order the washers for the banjo bolts (99582-1800) at 3 bucks a piece but a small price to pay for leak free operation for years to come. Thanks everyone. Hopefully I'll be able to slowly knock it out over the course of the week.
Old 05-02-15, 04:35 PM
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Yea. You wouldn't be able to do that job with the bumper on. Good luck with it! It's really an easy swap.
Old 05-03-15, 12:27 PM
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I also took the bumper off and definitely still had some clearance issues with the Koyo, the front swaybar, and the oil cooler lines. I made it all fit without having to cut anything, but it's tight.

My swaybar isn't stock and has a Racing Beat brace on it, and the Koyo is a triple pass.
Old 05-07-15, 09:48 AM
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Yeah... I disconnected the sway bar mounts to give me some room wiggling it. Then I realized I had the hard line under the radiator hose, rather than over. It was dark and I was frustrated so I stopped there for the night.

Can anyone tell me the wrench size for the banjo bolt? I tried a 24 mm and it slipped but couldn't get a 7/8" on it. I assume it's a 15/16" or 23 mm.
Old 05-08-15, 07:48 AM
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If someone hasn't answered your by tomorrow Earl, I can let you know when I get back in the country.
Old 05-08-15, 05:42 PM
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Thanks but, I bought both wrenches. Found out it's a 23mm.
Old 05-09-15, 01:07 PM
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I'm about to do this project myself. Good stuff!
Old 05-27-15, 11:12 PM
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So I installed the coolers, then after driving 20 miles or so, the spring clip on the driver's side oil return line popped off. Luckily I had spares so I cleaned it up the mess and put another on. Now there's a small leak and I'm not sure if it's from the feed or return (my guess is return). It's never leaked with the single cooler. Ziptied shop towels around the lines to see where the leak is coming from. Is there way to fix this or do I have to buy new lines?

Last edited by earlqhan; 05-28-15 at 08:45 AM.
Old 05-28-15, 01:51 PM
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I'll be tackling this project very soon aswell. It's nice to see other people doing it before me so I'm not asking the same questions and learning from the forum.
Old 06-08-15, 09:51 PM
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Any progress on this?
Old 02-19-17, 12:13 PM
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Retaining clips

Anybody find a good source for the oil retaining clips? Atkins and Mazdatrix sell them but only in conjunction with the connectors, making them 50 bucks a pop

I'd maybe go to Ray but it's such a small item, I don't wanna bother him all the time...

I've been looking around and some GMs and other cars use the same time clips for transmission coolers etc. Most of these are too small though...
Old 02-20-17, 10:23 PM
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I'm 90% sure you have to buy them altogether now. I think I got some from Ray pretty recently and they were less than $50, just give him a call, he'll hook you up!
Old 09-30-17, 11:59 PM
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https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...clips-1118185/

Originally Posted by zli944
Anybody find a good source for the oil retaining clips? Atkins and Mazdatrix sell them but only in conjunction with the connectors, making them 50 bucks a pop

I'd maybe go to Ray but it's such a small item, I don't wanna bother him all the time...

I've been looking around and some GMs and other cars use the same time clips for transmission coolers etc. Most of these are too small though...
Url
Old 10-01-17, 07:20 AM
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Dual oil coolers

I am about to tackle this same project. Glad to see info pouring in from experienced members
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