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In need of some advice (build help / ecu)

Old 10-22-14, 01:13 PM
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In need of some advice (build help / ecu)

Hello if any of you had read my previous threads of been trying to gather as much info as possible before making any big purchases.

A couple months ago my local rotary shop (lucky 7) stated I should look into a rebuild due to low compression but when I came here it seemed like the general opinion was if the motor is running strong to not fall to much onto compression numbers. So I proceeding with that advice.

I have written up a list of things I would like to do with the veh as well as a long term goal and am ready to make a purchase toward it. Now I'm plan on putting coil overs on and getting new bushings and thought this would be a good first step, but I have also read an ecu is a must have.

Through research I decided an adaptronic ecu is probably the best option for my goals. Now my question is. If i went out and bought one, plugged it in. What would I see. I read so much that these are so important as the stock ecu is no good but what will the effects be.

I guess my question is should I start on the suspension side to improve the.control and get a better feel while driving or go for ecu which i dont fully understand the effects
Old 10-22-14, 02:13 PM
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Personally if you have a low compression engine it's best to rebuild it now to include a new ECU before replacing suspension components. Look at it this way what's the point of a nice tight suspension if the car doesn't run? Trust me it's cheaper to rebuild now that it's running vs losing a seal and replacing rotors, housings ect... Prioritize your build with needs as your 1st priority and wants as low priority. You'll save the most money trust me.
Old 10-22-14, 02:50 PM
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How low is your compression? And what mods do you have on the car already?
Old 10-22-14, 03:05 PM
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front rotor 87,84,83
The rear 82,78,81.

current mods on the veh. Greddy smic, catback, aluminum ast, boost gauge. Also koni struts w/ unk brand spring (on the veh when I bought )front right is leaking which is why it was higher on my list for replacement.
Old 10-22-14, 03:21 PM
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U will need someone to tune that ecu.

My advice is rebuild the engine, find a local.tuner and figure out what ecu they prefer to tune on.
Old 10-22-14, 03:41 PM
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So I should save for the rebuild?? So many people told me to wait. And work on other parts first.

Well back to the drawing board.

Thank you
Old 10-22-14, 04:18 PM
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Look at it this way, if you rebuild a running engine before it fails there is a lesser chance that you will have to replace any parts like housings or plates. My engine puffs white smoke on hot start up every once in a while and I am just going to rebuild it before I loose the coolant seal completely.
Old 10-22-14, 04:28 PM
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I don't mind doing a rebuild, it's my wallet that does. Being 22 with not the best job in the world it will take a few months to save xD
Old 10-22-14, 04:44 PM
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i would totally recommend a stock rebuild and an adaptronic plug and play. the base map that comes on it is great for startup and driving/cruising until you can get it tuned by someone who knows what they're doing. i plugged mine in and it started up instantly (faster than it did on the powerFC or stock ECU somehow) and drove around very nicely...

this is lightyears better than what most people do by using a powerFC and hand controller (PFC requires you you to spend $300 more to get a datalogit box to be able to make any useful changes)

good luck
Old 10-22-14, 04:51 PM
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I would make the car reliable and strong before messing with it.

IE get the engine rebuilt and running really well before messing with anything else. Otherwise youll get issues compounding on each other and itll just end up being a hot mess
Old 10-22-14, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by FD3Cam
I would make the car reliable and strong before messing with it. IE get the engine rebuilt and running really well before messing with anything else. Otherwise youll get issues compounding on each other and itll just end up being a hot mess
X2.... To those that told you just drive it since it's running fine/strong...I'm sure they have their reasons, but if your running on the low side of compression and rebuild now you will not likely have to worry about as much of damage as you would by complete failure when your motor pops.

Alternatively, you could buy a backup motor and rebuild that. I have an adaptronic ecu, but have yet to use it as I'm trying to figure out which route I will take. I've heard nothing but good news about the ecu, but that's a good chunk of change.

This may be an extreme example, but your situation is like cancer...you could prolong the treatment, which will likely lead to death. Or you could treat now to prolong the life.

In this instance it would be the life of your motor.

Your motor is already showing signs of "cancer" with low compression so it's ultimately up to you on how to approach its treatment.

Whatever you decide you're looking at least a $1000 investment.

Good luck.

-Nick
Old 10-22-14, 05:29 PM
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$1000 sign me up, I was quoted 3k+ for pulling , rebuild and install. Plus any extra parts they recommended to set asides 4-5k total in case any "hard" parts need replacing (irons, housings, rotors ect)
Old 10-22-14, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by JAlfano
$1000 sign me up, I was quoted 3k+ for pulling , rebuild and install. Plus any extra parts they recommended to set asides 4-5k total in case any "hard" parts need replacing (irons, housings, rotors ect)
Oh I was referring to DIY. If you're having someone else do that for you then you're looking at a substantial amount :p

And I was saying at minimum it'll cost $1000 either route you take.
Old 10-22-14, 06:20 PM
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What's the difficulty on DIY I'm somewhat mechanically inclinded, and my father has been a mechanic all his life (mostly vw and older v8) but we have just about every tool imaginable.
Old 10-22-14, 09:59 PM
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Buy or download the FSM every FD owner must have a copy. There's also youtube videos & DVD's you can buy that goes through the rebuild process. I believe Atkins sells the rebuild DVD.
Old 10-23-14, 02:25 PM
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I would put the rebuild as a priority. Once the compression dips into the 70s, the car will start giving you hot start issues. If you wait until it blows, your chances of salvaging the rotors and rotor housings are slim. This will make the rebuild significantly more expensive. Do your research when choosing a shop to do the motor. There is a huge difference in price and quality of rebuilds. Find someone reputable that can meet your goals and budget. The best thing you can do is put the majority of your money into the motor. You can always build the rest of the car around it. If you are just slightly mechanically inclined, you can pull it yourself. The money saved can be put into the rebuild.

As far as the ecu, the adaptronic is a great unit. It can do a whole lot more than a Power FC and isn't significantly more expensive. I sell a lot of them for that reason. But make sure someone in your area is familiar with it. I know Elliot at Turblown has been offering remote tuning to those who don't have a local tuner available.

If budget doesn't allow, suspension can wait. You can easily find a used set of stock struts and springs for dirt cheap to get you by until you are able to get a set of quality coilovers. The worse thing you can do with suspension is put on a cheap set of coilovers. The majority of the time the car will ride worse than with the old stock suspension. I actually have a set of stock shocks and Tein springs I'm about to throw away.
Old 10-24-14, 02:48 PM
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So I just watched a full series of an engine rebuild about 3.5 hours in total. The series was on YouTube and seemed quite detailed but i will continue to watch more videos for consistencis and variations.

The job itself doesn't seem overly complex with the right tools
Old 10-24-14, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by JAlfano
So I just watched a full series of an engine rebuild about 3.5 hours in total. The series was on YouTube and seemed quite detailed but i will continue to watch more videos for consistencis and variations.

The job itself doesn't seem overly complex with the right tools
It's not overly complicated, but it's very detail oriented. A small missed detail could mean a non or bad running engine. If this is your first rebuild, just be prepared to do it twice. The reason I say that is sometimes you don't know what you don't know.
Old 10-24-14, 04:08 PM
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Is there any details to be absolutely not overlooked or if not done perfect could spell instant catastrophic failure. As the above stated I'm sure I'll make an error that will not let run it run, but what sort of errors could cause it to blow instantly
Old 10-24-14, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
i would totally recommend a stock rebuild and an adaptronic plug and play. the base map that comes on it is great for startup and driving/cruising until you can get it tuned by someone who knows what they're doing. i plugged mine in and it started up instantly (faster than it did on the powerFC or stock ECU somehow) and drove around very nicely...

this is lightyears better than what most people do by using a powerFC and hand controller (PFC requires you you to spend $300 more to get a datalogit box to be able to make any useful changes)

good luck
Having just completed my build and used a PFC I had lying around for years, I can honestly say that I'm leaning much more towards adaptronic now.

If you read more about them I'm sure you'll come to the same conclusion. I mean think about it, the PFC is at least 15 yr old tech. How far have computers come in that time? Comparatively, it's like matching a Pentium III to the new Intel I7; no contest.
Old 10-24-14, 11:18 PM
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Go with an ecu that a tuner in your area knows.

Lucky 7 rebuilt the engine in my car for the previous owner, they did a good job from what I can tell. car runs great.

Also, while the adaptronic is much more powerful, sometimes the beauty of a system is its simplicity. I have seen both ecu's. The powerFC is much easier to tune from my experience (I know the powerfc) and many more people know how to tune it.

The adaptronic we can't even get to start on one of the local cars here. I mean we can't even get it to idle, yet on the powerfc we can
Old 10-25-14, 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by JAlfano
front rotor 87,84,83
The rear 82,78,81.
The numbers are on the low side but if the car starts and runs it's fine. What you will find is as the compression falls over time hot starts will become "cranky". I have run engines in the 50's. LOL

Also when the compression was taken was the gas pedal depressed to the floor and held down during the cranking process? Very important because if it wasn't you will get a lower compression reading.

I've been building these engines for over 30 years BTW.
Old 10-25-14, 03:54 AM
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When it comes to the compression I was not even there. I took my car into the shop to have all the vaccum hoses replaced / new silicon ones and they called me later the same day saying they ran the compression and it was low and charged me 90 bucks and sent me home without doing the hoses. I was a little upset because I didnt ask them to the test and they immediately tried selling me a rebuild, and figured they were being honest cause they have a good rep
Old 10-25-14, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by lOOkatme
Go with an ecu that a tuner in your area knows.

Lucky 7 rebuilt the engine in my car for the previous owner, they did a good job from what I can tell. car runs great.

Also, while the adaptronic is much more powerful, sometimes the beauty of a system is its simplicity. I have seen both ecu's. The powerFC is much easier to tune from my experience (I know the powerfc) and many more people know how to tune it.

The adaptronic we can't even get to start on one of the local cars here. I mean we can't even get it to idle, yet on the powerfc we can
Have you guys been speaking to tech about it ? That base map I sent was from a tuned car( remote tune ) and I checked it on another car last night. Feel free to email or call me directly.

I find actual tuning is far easier in an Adaptronic than every other model on the market. I have 14 years experience tuning all sorts.

I will be down doing dealer training at lucky7racing before sevenstock. I can tune your car if you like. I have several to do( up to 7 )
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Old 10-25-14, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JAlfano
When it comes to the compression I was not even there. I took my car into the shop to have all the vaccum hoses replaced / new silicon ones and they called me later the same day saying they ran the compression and it was low and charged me 90 bucks and sent me home without doing the hoses. I was a little upset because I didnt ask them to the test and they immediately tried selling me a rebuild, and figured they were being honest cause they have a good rep
Take the car over to Jeff at Rotary power in Gardena and have him check the compression. He's honest and knows rotaries like the back of his hand.

Clink the link below for directions/number :

Rotary Power USA!

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