vchacon

I just had my car dyno'd and I got 254 rwhp with catback, downpipe, pettit ECU, and 13PSI.... I originally set it at 12 put it got turned up a bit.

Do these number reflect what I should be seeing with the above mods. I was told that I should have been seeing closer to 300 rwhp

Compression test was OK. No loss of coolant. No champagne bubble in filler neck. Clutch seems to be on its last legs, though, and I need to fix 5th gear syncro.

Thanks,

Victor

SpeedKing

iTrader: (4)

That number seems low. What kind of dyno, BTW? Mustang or Dynojet?

vchacon

Dynojet.

I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to what it might be. Vacuum at idle is about 14 and idle occasionally fluctuates a little but is usually rock sold at about 750 RPM.

I do see some white smoke at start up for about a minute or so. Doesn't smell sweet though.

Roar 629

vaccum seems a bit off..

Tad

err, yeah correct me if i'm wrong but vacuum should be alot stronger than that at idle.

about the power though,
if your clutch is slipping wont that greatly affect the power your car puts to the wheels??

its like trying to do a dyno run with the clutch half way in or something

am I right or what?

TobiasRX

If the clutch is slipping you will loose power.

I suggest that u change clutch right away.

2-Rotor

According to your mods you have exhaust, the ECU, and
unless you havent listed it where is your intake? You have opened up the exhaust track and the boost but you are not bringing in a increase in air flow. That will/should increase your output to where you are looking for in the 285-300RWHP range.

moehler

iTrader: (12)

I dynoed at ~273 rwhp with my mods at 10 psi. somethings wrong.

moehler

iTrader: (12)

sorry...here's my mods.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i did 245 with a dp and catback, and stock 10-13-10-8 boost

vchacon

Thanks for the replies guys... the clutch isn't slipping but it'll be there shortly. It doesn't catch till its almost out. No air intake but I will be modifying my airbox soon. I'm also debating a IC. I've been searching and doing some research on which one would best meet my needs.

I'll check the vacuum lines for leaks this weekend.

Again thanks

Victor

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

bleed your clutch and adjust your pedal

see if that helps

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

Bleeding the clutch absolutely won't help a slipping clutch.

Dyno readings vary quite a bit from dyno to dyno.

Your only real power mods are a cat-back and DP. The ECU is just preventing you from running lean at higher than stock boost levels and probably running richer than it should be due to stock IC and intake.

Get an upgraded IC before you crank up the boost. With your setup you have really high boost loss across the IC and your running high intake temps.

1FooknTiteFD

I think that's about a right number for your mods. 300rwhp seems a little optimistic without an intercooler or boost controller. When I had my stock twins, I got 292rwhp with M2 medium IC, M2 intake, DP, and N1 dual exhaust with the M2 ecu. The boost was set at 13psi

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

Considering you mods, stock intake, stock IC, and stock cat. your dyno is ball park.

Plus if you are running a Pettit Unlimited, then you are runing RICH! It is programmed for the mods that you do not have. NOT in first sentence!

vchacon

I'll add bleeding the clutch and adjusting the pedal to the "todo" list for this weekend. Is the pedal adjustment procedure in the FSM?

I'm probably going to get an IC and intake soon. I got part of my tax return.

Thanks Guys,

Victor

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

no it won't help a slipping clutch but he was complaining it was at the end of the pedal stroke