My Coolant Seal are out :( , what is next?
#1
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My Coolant Seal are out :( , what is next?
I was really diapointed whne i know yesterday that my coolant seal are gone in my FD.
Actually i was having those symptoms (Bubles in water, water disaperaing..etc), but when i send it to the workshop 4 further check, we found water on the Spark Plugs !!
What do u guys think i should do:
- Go for a rebuilt kit?
- Buy a ready rebuilt engine(malloy or something)?
- Or Swap it with an LS1 or 2JZ?
I will appreciate the advice....
Actually i was having those symptoms (Bubles in water, water disaperaing..etc), but when i send it to the workshop 4 further check, we found water on the Spark Plugs !!
What do u guys think i should do:
- Go for a rebuilt kit?
- Buy a ready rebuilt engine(malloy or something)?
- Or Swap it with an LS1 or 2JZ?
I will appreciate the advice....
#4
Certified Rotorhead
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Originally Posted by fastcarfreak
cheapest bet is to have it rebuilt or get a reman...
heres your fix...
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r..._seal_fix.html
#5
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Originally Posted by turBRO240
This deffinately not a fix. It is at best a patch and it can how ever buy you some time depending on two factors.
1.) how far gone the seals are.
2.) Where the seals have failed.
Results may be good or non existant depending on these. I was fortunate as I got 14months of time to line up funds and parts for the engine swap. I picked up a low milage motor and did the Removal and replacement myself so hat left me the funds to take care of reliability mods and some performance stuff as well.
#7
Look Ma! No Pistons.
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How About Steel Seal?
How about Steel Seal? Has anyone tried that one yet? I actually was given a bottle of this by the company to try. As it turned out my coolant seal is not real bad and I don't have any coolant leaking into the engine so I never tried it. It's still sitting on a shelf in my garage. It does not use copper granules but some other suspended particles of some kind of polymer I think. I believe the procedure for using it is almost identical.
If anyone wants my bottle I'll give it to you for free if you pay the shipping. I'm just curious to see how it works.
If anyone wants my bottle I'll give it to you for free if you pay the shipping. I'm just curious to see how it works.
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#8
Banzai Racing
Any of those "block sealers" Will clog your radiator and heater core to the point where they will need to be replaced. If you have had coolant seal retaining wall failure it will not work at all.
#9
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
That really depends on what you want out of your car (and how much time/money you want to spend).
Let me know..
#10
Mr. Links
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Originally Posted by Jed_only_red_RX7
The Cheapest and easiest.
Let me know..
Let me know..
However, if you lost a coolant seal on your current motor; you may want to find out 'why' it happened and do some changes to make sure it doesn't happen again.
#11
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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Originally Posted by BlueTII
Any of those "block sealers" Will clog your radiator and heater core to the point where they will need to be replaced. If you have had coolant seal retaining wall failure it will not work at all.
If you can't afford to rebuild it, park the car until you can.
If this forum followed this motto, the FD owning experience would be a much more positive one for those who have problems:
Do it once, do it right.
#12
Look Ma! No Pistons.
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Originally Posted by BlueTII
Any of those "block sealers" Will clog your radiator and heater core to the point where they will need to be replaced. If you have had coolant seal retaining wall failure it will not work at all.
#13
Go LS1! My 13B went out on me with only 44k and while i will always have a respect for rotaries, there is something to be said about having a RELIABLE stock engine that produces 350hp and more torque then you can dream about without any additional mods. Not only that, but a LS1 passes emissions like a dream and gets way better mileage then a similarly tuned rotary. just my .02. The only thing i miss from the 13B was the BOV!
#14
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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Originally Posted by dantherx7man
Go LS1! My 13B went out on me with only 44k and while i will always have a respect for rotaries, there is something to be said about having a RELIABLE stock engine that produces 350hp and more torque then you can dream about without any additional mods. Not only that, but a LS1 passes emissions like a dream and gets way better mileage then a similarly tuned rotary. just my .02. The only thing i miss from the 13B was the BOV!
#15
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Originally Posted by dantherx7man
Go LS1! My 13B went out on me with only 44k and while i will always have a respect for rotaries, there is something to be said about having a RELIABLE stock engine that produces 350hp and more torque then you can dream about without any additional mods. Not only that, but a LS1 passes emissions like a dream and gets way better mileage then a similarly tuned rotary. just my .02. The only thing i miss from the 13B was the BOV!
Turning the ignition and hearing a V8 sound come from an FD is like blowing on a trumpet and hearing a drum solo.
#16
Originally Posted by Silverstone
But then again as rule number 7.2.1 states in the FD bible:
Turning the ignition and hearing a V8 sound come from an FD is like blowing on a trumpet and hearing a drum solo.
Turning the ignition and hearing a V8 sound come from an FD is like blowing on a trumpet and hearing a drum solo.
hahaha yeah, yeah yeah. I figured i would get grief for my blastphemy! I also remember some friends of mine singing similar tunes like goodfellafd3s when they found out what i was planning on doing lol. As for price, after you sell the rotary stuff, an LS1 swap is not that much more expensive than doing a reman, plus you get a new 6sp tranny in the process... even if it is a bit unothedox
#17
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Originally Posted by dantherx7man
hahaha yeah, yeah yeah. I figured i would get grief for my blastphemy! I also remember some friends of mine singing similar tunes like goodfellafd3s when they found out what i was planning on doing lol. As for price, after you sell the rotary stuff, an LS1 swap is not that much more expensive than doing a reman, plus you get a new 6sp tranny in the process... even if it is a bit unothedox
1. You really have to have someone do one of those swaps who has done a few before and I have a hard enough time finding mechanics in my area to do my rotary stuff. Besides, I'm just starting to get the hang of how to keep these things going and most importantly what NOT to do. Most of my problems were the result of previous owners, including this o-ring thing.
2. If you are going to have any chance of owning a car that goes classic and have increased value over time, you had better keep it as stock as possible. Swapping engines is about as non-stock as you can go.
3. If you want to drive a V8 there are easier ways to accomplish it. I'd be more tempted to buy one of those Cobra replicas or something.
4. Seemed like a real red-tape hassle to get the car registered and all after the swap.
5. I'm afraid of getting jumped by a gang of hoodlum rotary fanatics
Last edited by Silverstone; 02-26-07 at 12:51 AM.
#18
Full Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Mahjik
Cheapest and easiest is going to be getting a reman shipped to you (I know that's not going to be cheap for the shipping). You'll just swap over your components and go.
However, if you lost a coolant seal on your current motor; you may want to find out 'why' it happened and do some changes to make sure it doesn't happen again.
However, if you lost a coolant seal on your current motor; you may want to find out 'why' it happened and do some changes to make sure it doesn't happen again.
Beside i guess the coolant seal went due to heat !!
#19
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Originally Posted by Jed_only_red_RX7
How much a reman would cost? with core or without?
Beside i guess the coolant seal went due to heat !!
Beside i guess the coolant seal went due to heat !!
What you can do is have him ship you a reman, then have someone here in the US ship a core engine to Ray in your name so that you're not getting killed on shipping. That's something I might be able to do, PM me if you end up needing it done
#20
Mr. Links
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Originally Posted by dantherx7man
As for price, after you sell the rotary stuff, an LS1 swap is not that much more expensive than doing a reman
However, my friend is located here in the USA. It was easy for him to find buyers and ship parts. Jed is not in the USA and that complicates things for him. It's not really going to be cost effective for him to start shipping large parts all over the world to complete a V8 swap especially since money is a concern of his.
Originally Posted by Jed_only_red_RX7
How much a reman would cost? with core or without?
Beside i guess the coolant seal went due to heat !!
Beside i guess the coolant seal went due to heat !!
If you lost a coolant seal to heat (or overheating), then that is something you should address before running your next engine. If not, you may end up killing the next motor you put in.
#21
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Email Ray Crowe over at Malloy Mazda. He runs a Mazda parts department and he will ship you an reman engine internationally. His email address is hmkparts@aol.com.
What you can do is have him ship you a reman, then have someone here in the US ship a core engine to Ray in your name so that you're not getting killed on shipping. That's something I might be able to do, PM me if you end up needing it done
What you can do is have him ship you a reman, then have someone here in the US ship a core engine to Ray in your name so that you're not getting killed on shipping. That's something I might be able to do, PM me if you end up needing it done
#22
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
To an extent, I agree with you. I helped a friend to his conversion and the total cost was around $9k (non-turbo LS1). After selling off his stuff, he probably ended up paying about $3-4k for the swap.
However, my friend is located here in the USA. It was easy for him to find buyers and ship parts. Jed is not in the USA and that complicates things for him. It's not really going to be cost effective for him to start shipping large parts all over the world to complete a V8 swap especially since money is a concern of his.
Remans are running about $2500 USD and that is with a core. The core fee is $1000 so you can add that to the price if you don't plan on sending back your core.
If you lost a coolant seal to heat (or overheating), then that is something you should address before running your next engine. If not, you may end up killing the next motor you put in.
However, my friend is located here in the USA. It was easy for him to find buyers and ship parts. Jed is not in the USA and that complicates things for him. It's not really going to be cost effective for him to start shipping large parts all over the world to complete a V8 swap especially since money is a concern of his.
Remans are running about $2500 USD and that is with a core. The core fee is $1000 so you can add that to the price if you don't plan on sending back your core.
If you lost a coolant seal to heat (or overheating), then that is something you should address before running your next engine. If not, you may end up killing the next motor you put in.
Anyhow, Thanks for the info and will work on my budget to see what is best for me.
Cheers...
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