82BUCKET

iTrader: (4)

A friend of mine who is very informative with the rotary cars is helping me get my FD set up properly. It has been converted to a single turbo Greddy G20, Greddy wastegate, TurboXS blow off, some off brand Intercooler with an aluminum rad. in a V-Mount set up. The challenge we are having is with the OEM computer it fires up, but if you try and accelerate it spits...backfires on decel. I had initially bought a PFC for it w/ datalogit....it doesn't even start when we try to use the PFC. So...trying to get the car to run on the OEM ecu has led to new wiring harness, thought that was the culprit, remains the same. Thought it was injectors needing the resistors, which he did....same result. He mentioned to me that the car seems to be in limp mode due to ecu recognizing the solenoid(s) for the twins??? I know some of what these monsters are about, but he is well versed so any information to remedy this issue would be GREATLY appreciated.

Car has good compression on 13B, turbo is good, new plugs, Walbro to AEM regulator, serviced the injectors, PFC was bench tested...don't want to sell this thing for some silly thing we are missing.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

On the stock ECU limp is understandable with those mods, especially if you deleted the OMP. But based only on your description I'm not certain you're in limp. And of course on a PFC that isn't a factor. Was the PFC new or used?

82BUCKET

iTrader: (4)

PFC was used...first thing I did when it didn't start with it plugged in was send it to get bench tested. All good and they made the A/C idle adjustment on it.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Install resistors in the 8 colorful plugs under the UIM(330 ohm, 1/2 watt) and hook up your omp. It will run perfect until you blow it up on your first 3 or 4th gear pull. Enjoy.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Just to be a little more clear than the previous post.......
On the stock ECU you are definitely in limp mode. That's why it will start, but stumbles badly if there is any engine load. BUT....you can not be in limp mode with the PFC. The PFC has no "limp mode", so there must be something else keeping it from starting. Since it starts with the stock ECU, fuel, spark and compression aren't the problem. The difference would likely be in where ever timing is at on the PFC....right?

82BUCKET

iTrader: (4)

I'm not looking to blow it up...so what is the better way to correct the resistor addition? Just run premix? I will see about the timing on the PFC...any recommendations on where it should be?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The resistors are only for the stock ECU (i.e. to fake it into thinking the things you have removed are still there). They are not needed when using an aftermarket standalone ECU like the PFC. If the car won't run with the PFC, that's a problem and you should be sorting that specific problem out. It's good to test that it will start with the stock ECU, but don't bother trying to get the car to run well with the stock ECU.

82BUCKET

iTrader: (4)

This again leads me to wonder if the guy working on the car...is well versed on some aspects of this single conversion. He told me that the car should run decent if we aren't looking to play with boost a bunch and just want it to run on the set up it has and use the OEM ECU instead of the PFC. He mentioned putting the resistors in....but now has told me the problem is that he is trying to figure out the limp mode problem...if we stick with the OEM ECU.

The fact that it won't start with the PFC....has been frustrating and not sure as to why it won't...spark, compression, fuel...seem to be all there. Hoping to check in on the timing which he is doing now.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

I do know that with those mods there is absolutely no value in getting it to run properly with the stock ECU. You won't be successful anyway. You need a standalone/programmable ECU, like the PFC, to operate with those mods. The fact that it runs with the stock ECU is a good sign that the basic engine is OK, but that's the ONLY value in it.
I'm not a tuner and have limited knowledge of the PFC. But it appears to me the issue is in the PFC you bought...whatever settings are on there now are not compatible enough with your engine to get it started. And if the guy working on it is "well versed" I think he should've come to that conclusion too, and know how to fix it.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Can you provide any more details on what's done to the car? Stock or larger fuel injectors? Stock or aftermarket secondary fuel rail?

You mentioned the pump and the regulator already. BTW, is it a shop working on the car?

82BUCKET

iTrader: (4)

The engine is not ported to previous owners knowledge. Stock injectors that have been cleaned. Stock rails. The guy working on the car is a shop manager at a track....he has been racing rotary's for some time and he has some amazing things he has shown me on his personal engines I haven't seen anywhere on here. This single converted car seems to have thrown both of us for a loop on why it doesn't start with PFC...and stumbles with OEM ecu.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Did you have the injectors cleaned? Do you have the flow results (i.e. confirming they are not enlarged)?

When you attach the PFC, what does the voltage screen show (might be helpful to take a photo of it and post it)?

I'm interested in who is working on it, but understand if you don't want to post it.

82BUCKET

iTrader: (4)

Injectors were cleaned...flow results...no...not so sure if he kept them or received after getting them done.

The PFC voltages...dang...I had them written down from when I was working on it myself. I will see if I can get him to do it.

His name is John and runs Hallett Raceway...think he used to work for Pettit...great guy and has been very courteous and helpful...just wondering if this might be out of his realm.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Obviously, it's not a good thing to be asking for assistance here on the forum and car is being worked on by a mechanic/shop. However, I would recommend starting with the following:

1. Getting the PFC hooked up and taking a look at the voltages. If there is something wrong (i.e. like CAS reading or something) it should be easily noticed.

2. Check the fuel system (pressure and leakage).

The PFC will be the biggest aid in troubleshooting so post up your voltages as soon as you can. I would say that if this is perplexing the mechanic then that's a bad thing. However, I'm not sure where to suggest for you to take the car other than down to Rotary Performance in Texas based on your location.

82BUCKET

iTrader: (4)

Very true...but the car has been under construction for a while...I just want to drive this FD and enjoy it!!

1. Def. right about getting the voltages looked at....I initially did it...but don't recall values.

2. Fuel system is all intact and good.

Yeah, we are going to try with him till end of this month...after that....Texas!

Thanks for the help....hope I can get a shot of the commander with values.