TRISPEEDFD3S

iTrader: (26)

Alright, here is the question for those who have done rebuilds already. What consist of a Mazda reman? What is usually replaced in them? What are the benefits opposed to just having your engine rebuilt besides cost? I'm looking into getting a rebuild next year, and this is what I have so far as of parts. Let me know what is needed and what isn't. Any input is appreciated.

Front Side Housing-Brand New OEM 10-C000-N3F1 $347
Intermediate Side Housing-Brand New OEM 10-D00B-N3A1 $399
Rear Side Housing-Brand New OEM 10-C500-N3YC $347
Front Rotor Housing-Brand New OEM 10-S700-N3Y2 $591
Rear Rotor Housing-Brand New OEM 10-S800-N3Y2 $591
Rotors-Brand New OEM Rotors (Come With New Bearings)11-B100-N3YA $1,134
Rotor Kit-2mm Steel Apex Seal Kit 4rm Pineapple Racing Includes: $1,544
-Apex Seals (OEM 2mm, 2 Piece)
-Apex Seal Springs (OEM Long And Short Springs)
-Side Seals (OEM)
-Side Seal Springs (OEM)
-Corner Seals (OEM w/Rubber Inserts)
-Corner Seal Springs (OEM FD-Style)
-Oil Control Rings (OEM)
-Oil Control O-Rings (OEM)
-Oil Control Ring Springs (OEM)
-Heavy Duty Water Seals
-Front Cover Gasket (OEM)
-Front Cover O-Ring (Heavy Duty)
-Front Cover O-Ring Backup Washer (OEM)
-Oil Pedistal O-Rings (Heavy Duty)
-Rear Stationary Gear O-Ring (Heavy Duty)
-Front And Rear Main Seals
Front Stationary Bearing-Brand New OEM Renesis (RX-8) 10-E0YC-N3H3 $89
Rear Stationary Bearing-Brand New OEM Renesis (RX-8) 10-E1YC-N3H3 $115
(NOTE:* If using the RX8 rear gear in an earlier 13b engine, you must add sealant where the rear gear o-ring WOULD be. There is no groove to hold the o-ring because the Renesis engine mounts the o-ring in the side housing rather than on the gear. We recommend using Hylomar, but a THIN layer of silicone sealant will also suffice.)
Eccentric Shaft-Brand New OEM 11-D00A-N3G1 $417
Eccentric Shaft Thermostat-Brand New OEM 11-D150-N326 $50
Eccentric Shaft Thermostat Spring-Brand New OEM 11-D170-N326 $2
Front Counter Weight-Brand New OEM 11-D610-N3A7 $60
Rear Counter Weight-Brand New OEM 11-5210-N351 $135
Engine Gasket Kit-Brand New OEM Gasket Set 10-2710-8DFE Includes: $447
-Everything Except Front & Rear Seals
-Pilot Bearing & Seal
Front Eccentric Seal-Brand New OEM 10-5070-N3A1 $10
Rear Eccentric Seal-Brand New OEM 10-556A-1668 $10
Oil Metering Pump O-Ring-Brand New OEM 14-6040-N350 $9
Oil Metering Copper Outer @Pump To Line-Brand New OEM 20-8000-9956 $12
Oil Metering Lines-RP Stainless Steel Oil Metering Lines $110
Oil Pan Pick Up Tube-Brand New OEM 14-240A-N3A1 $35
Oil Filler Tube Seal-Brand New OEM 10-4240-N3A1 $6
Oil Pump-Brand New OEM 14-1000-N01 $135
Oil Pump Chain-Brand New OEM 14-1510-N326 $31
Oil Relief Valve-Brand New OEM 14-2300-N3A1 $37
Oil Pressure Sender-Brand New OEM 14-8200-N3A1 $99
Main Underdrive Pulley-RP Main Power Pulley $264
Water Pump & Housing-Brand New OEM 15-010D-N3C1 $287
Engine Stud Kit-Oversized 13B Engine Stud Kit 13B-STUDKIT-OS $407
Engine Block Off Plate It-RP Block Off Plate Kit $74

TOTAL $6,988

This rebuild is going to be expensive for a 2mm OEM Apex seal motor, but it will have tons of new parts. The reason I want such a good rebuild is because I'm going single, and I'd like a little piece of mind that my motor can handle good power for the long run. I'd like to run 3mm seals, but damn that'll be expensive. SHould this 2mm build hold up?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

That's a pretty comprehensive list.

You do *not* need 3mm seals, if anything put that money towards a good water injection system for peace of mine----aquamist (what I run) or cooling mist.

rynberg

You don't need to build a whole new motor....typically the intermediate and side housings are fine, as well as the e-shaft, rotors, etc.

A reman comes with a new water pump, oil pump, and many times, new rotor housings.

I would rather get a rebuild from a good builder, but if you have massive internal damage, it would make much more sense to get a reman and then have it opened and rebuilt.

TRISPEEDFD3S

iTrader: (26)

I can't believe my only replies are from the 2 guys I respect the most on the forum. HAHA! Man, where have you been Tyler? Thanks for the reply though guys. I was thinking about getting it rebuilt by a good builder. What do you think about Mazdatrix, Speedmachines, or have you heard about a guy named Jeremy in the 925? He's got some good prices on labor, and I'm not doubting him, just don't really know about him just yet. Thanks Rich for the advice on the 3mm. I don't think I'll need it either. I want to run a single, and keep it simple under the hood. So, my rebuild would be a little too much eh? I guess I'll take a few things off that list. HAHA. I'm only rebuilding to make sure the engine is sound for a single. Not because it is damaged. Thanks for the replies, and if anyone else can chime in about how much they spent on their rebuild would be awesome. Tyler how much did you pay for Rick to do your motor? What did your build consist of other than the 3mm seals. How much did you pay? What did you reuse or replace with new stuff? BTW I want to do a street port too.

-Jeff

bajaman

I got a reman from Malloy and then had Chris Rogers tear it down, spec it out and port it.
Replaced all the hoses while I was at it and put on some low-mileage turbos.
And when it was all said and done I had over $6K in the rebuild. But the engine is better than brand new, pulls like a freight train and runs like a sewing machine.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

IF you have money burning your pocket than that list is all well and nice. IF not, then about half of that stuff is unnecessary for your goals, and some of it is just plain ludicrous.

Stud kit is overkill for anything less than 500rwhp.

Water pump HOUSINGS don't go bad in any way...just buy a pump for 100 bucks or whatever they cost.

The underdrive pulley is a nice mod, but it is NOWHERE NEAR worth what they cost new. You will almost never notice it, except that your alternator charges less at idle.

OIl pressure sender has nothing to do with engine longevity...just pick up a used one from a low mile jspec for 20 bucks, or if you are **** about your oil pressure reading, go with a full new aftermarket gauge like an autometer for 50 bucks. With rotaries, with the exception of running low on oil, you either have oil pressure or not...the oiling system is one of the most overengineered for any production engine in the world, and is not a source of worry. Same for the oil pump chain and oil pump. No need to pay $135 to replace the pump, simply pay $10 for the 2 small keys inside the pump that often wear on the REW. I have NEVER seen an oilpump drivechain fail, or even one that was about to fail, on any rotary, regardless of mileage or treatment. Same for the oil relief valve and regulator...either use them as is, or shim them a little to restore them to new pressure spec (if not more).

Why would you replace an oil pan pickup? It is not a moving part, or a wear part. Just clean it off and put it back in! Again, why in the heck would you replace front and rear counterweights? They are just a chunk of metal, they do not wear out or break!

No need to buy the eshaft spring...it is not under any considerable stress and never flattens out. Replace the pellet thermostat with the solid pellet for 8 bucks, it is a reliability mod. The eshafts are almost always in excellent shape and reuseable, if yours is not then pick up a used one for 25 bucks, or a new rx8 upgraded shaft for $200.

That price for the master seal kit seems quite high to me for some reason, perhaps it is the water seals that raise the price?

Rotorhousings, well and fine...but I can sell them to you for cheaper than you have listed there. $1150/set shipped brand new in the wrapper. I can also sell oem 2mm apex seals brand new for $275/set shipped.

No real reason to replace irons, they wear very little, especially on FD's which generally die before they ever get to 100k anyway. Even a worn iron will run just fine in an engine and will not affect power output or longevity unless the wear is quite extensive.

You'd be putting out an awful lot of money for a stock block there, man. A lot of people do a LOT more for a LOT less money, but if that's how you want to allocate funds, then it's your business.

rynberg

Jeff, here's my rebuild thread.....

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=rebuild

Rotary4tw

iTrader: (3)

Perhaps this response should be in a PM to TRISPEEDFD3S, but I have talked to 3 people in the last week through PM's that had questions about rebuilds and none of them knew about Landers, so I'll just respond here too!

When I had my engine inspected and ported, I went with Kevin Landers at Rotary Resurrection. The engine is the heart and soul of your car, so you want it to be touched by a capable builder, with a solid reputation.

I hate to make it sound like I'm always riding Landers, but if you spend some time doing research on both his reputation and his general rotary knowledge, you are quickly reolize he knows his stuff.

I experienced great communication, detailed honest explanations on my options with some pictures along the way, and above all, a great engine and port job. The engine is running strong, both on the street and the road course, and the ports are making much more power then expected.

PM me if you have any other questions about the details if you wish, as a satisfied customer I'm more then happy to talk about it!!!

-Ben

TRISPEEDFD3S

iTrader: (26)

Thanks for the replies guys. I don't mean to add so much to a list, but I have never done a rebuild and I guess I was just over looking a little too much. Atleast now I know a lot more about what I need to replace, and what I don't. I really do appreciate it, and believe me this will be useful for when I do rebuild the motor.

-Jeff