Low (Cold) Water Temps while Driving
12-15-16, 10:41 AM
#26
Racecar - Formula 2000
Some folks drill a few small (2 or 3 3/16" diameter) bypass holes in the thermostat to make warm-up more linear and stabilize coolant temperature on cars that are used for track days or races. In cold weather that can make them run too cold, similar to a stuck-open thermostat.
12-15-16, 09:52 PM
#31
A proper oil cooler setup (virtually every kit I have seen and stock oil coolers) will have an oil temperature thermostat as well. No one drills them either. That being said, you should not have to cover any oil cooler if it in fact has a thermostat as recommended.
12-16-16, 10:38 AM
#33
Everybody in this thread has different setups, but I've pointed out before that the "oil thermal pellet" delete mod is NOT helping your overcooling issue. The engine has oil cooling jets for the rotors, like a piston engine with piston squirters. Mazda has used a mechanical thermostat for those jets. There is a legitimate concern about the thermal pellet failing, but you can just get a new one from the dealer.
Also, I'd like to point out that anyone who is running with the oil thermal pellet delete (a well intentioned but IMO counter productive mod) is spraying cold oil all over their rotors, slowing down warm up of the engine in the winter and essentially transferring the heat of cold oil into the engine. Run an oil cooler without a thermostat and you've amplified the problem.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...tupid-1017656/
Also, I'd like to point out that anyone who is running with the oil thermal pellet delete (a well intentioned but IMO counter productive mod) is spraying cold oil all over their rotors, slowing down warm up of the engine in the winter and essentially transferring the heat of cold oil into the engine. Run an oil cooler without a thermostat and you've amplified the problem.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...tupid-1017656/
12-17-16, 10:26 PM
#34
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traditionally they just get slow, but i've seen the FD ones break either way. the fun one literally broke, so it would go back and forth between open and short (full hot and full cold), so the car would alternately not start because it got no gas, or not start because it was flooded.
12-19-16, 07:00 PM
#36
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In reality:
(1) Heat Sink affect cools the system too much in winter.
(2) I have tested my R1 setup here in Houston winters and I DO NEED TO BLOCK one to increase oils temp to a normal operational range.
(3) I friend has dual large aftermarket oil cooler with thermostats and he also has to block one.
12-19-16, 09:24 PM
#37
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My thermostat was stuck open...New one is in and hopefully good to go now.
I still want to hook up an oil temp gauge beacuse I do think the oil is getting too cool. I did change out to 10w 40 to help with flow.
I still want to hook up an oil temp gauge beacuse I do think the oil is getting too cool. I did change out to 10w 40 to help with flow.
12-20-16, 11:53 AM
#39
i made a custom VMIC kit, and since then my coolant temp while cruising (granted, weather is cold right now) has been ~75*C.
prior to that, the temp was ~80*C (koyo radiator in stock layout).
i've also tested my thermostat for a separate reason, and it fully closes and opens...
Peter Hahn said his cruising coolant temp dropped as well when he switched to a VMIC even with a new thermostat.
prior to that, the temp was ~80*C (koyo radiator in stock layout).
i've also tested my thermostat for a separate reason, and it fully closes and opens...
Peter Hahn said his cruising coolant temp dropped as well when he switched to a VMIC even with a new thermostat.
12-20-16, 02:45 PM
#41
Anyone know how much temp difference there is between pre and post oil cooler on average?
12-20-16, 06:11 PM
#42
12-20-16, 07:41 PM
#43
This is interesting. I have a similar issue but I guess I never thought it was actually an issue. When I had the stock radiator and original thermostat my water temps would read between 90-100C pretty consistently but never really over about 105C in heavy traffic or going up a long hill on the highway. Seemed pretty normal on the stock ECU.
Then, I upgraded to a Koyo N-Flow, put in a new OEM thermostat and installed a Power FC to tune my car for the new downpipe, high flow cat and catback at 0.9 bar (still stock intercooler at the time). In the PFC my tuner set the fans to come on low at 87C and high at 89-90C. However, since the radiator upgrade my car only goes to about 80-83C in traffic (occasionally a bit higher in hot weather) and sits between 75-80C on the highway. My temp sensor is plumbed into the top of the thermostat/water pump housing if that matters.
Temps rise nice and slow on track but never really go beyond 97-98C before my tires or brakes are asking for a break. Thought the temps were a bit cold but not too bad but after reading this thread now I am not so sure if they should be a bit warmer.
Then, I upgraded to a Koyo N-Flow, put in a new OEM thermostat and installed a Power FC to tune my car for the new downpipe, high flow cat and catback at 0.9 bar (still stock intercooler at the time). In the PFC my tuner set the fans to come on low at 87C and high at 89-90C. However, since the radiator upgrade my car only goes to about 80-83C in traffic (occasionally a bit higher in hot weather) and sits between 75-80C on the highway. My temp sensor is plumbed into the top of the thermostat/water pump housing if that matters.
Temps rise nice and slow on track but never really go beyond 97-98C before my tires or brakes are asking for a break. Thought the temps were a bit cold but not too bad but after reading this thread now I am not so sure if they should be a bit warmer.
