gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

I think the only original drivetrain part on my 130k car is the rear diff. I think I have rebuilt everything else - except the front end. With all the clunking noises emitting from my front suspension, I figured it was time.

I thought about just replacing bushings on the control arms, but I didn't think it was worthwhile to do the bushings and leave the ball joint. I thought about pulling the control arms off to test the ball joints but over-estimated the level of difficulty/time (turned out to be very easy fyi).

So, I order a set of NEW Upper Front Control Arms and started wrenching. Thank God for Mazda Comp membership. The finish on the control arms looked a bit rough so I got a wire wheel out and cleaned it up a bit. I thought of polishing them, but that will have to wait for another day.

I attached a pic of one of the old and new Upper Control Arms side by side.

I used a $10 Ball Joint Fork to separate the Upper Control Arm from the Steering Knuckle and it just slipped right out with surprisingly little effort. Other than that, the process is the same as installing a shock assembly.

Since I was still waiting on some parts to do the Lower Front Control Arms, I stopped here and went for a ride. It made a nice difference. Not huge but the car felt a bit tighter and made less noise. This was especially noticeable going over the speed bumps in my complex.

Next up are the Lower Control Arms and Steering Rack Bushings! Fun

bryant

new stuff is always cool.
figuring out how to install it and how easy it was is even better.
+

looks good.

brad89au

sorry for digging up an old thread but was it necessary to replace the lower control arms also? as my upper ball joints are also fingered (well at least the right side anyway) but is it justifiable to replace the lower arms at the same time as they seem quite costly?

cheers,
Brad.

Ottoman

just replace the bushings..

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

It really depends on your situation. In my case, I already had lots of mileage and the previous owner had tracked the car often. I also had a lot of odd noises coming from the front and wanted to rid my car of them once and for all. Even after doing the uppers, I heard some odd noises from the front. My alignment guy also confirmed that the bushings were worn out and there was enough play in the front lower control arm bushings that something had to be done.

Give how expensive they were, I found a good set of low mileage used ones from a trust forum member instead of going new. Then I replaced those bushings with the Super Pro poly urethane bushings.

The uppers made a nice difference on my car in terms of steering feel and decreased noise. The lowers with the poly bushings made a huge difference. All the odd noises were gone.

I also realized a huge improvement with the Super Pro poly bushings in the lower control arm also. The stock big LCA bushing is liquid filled (IIRC) and worn. The Super Pro is solid poly urethane. Solid but very streetable. Replacing those bushings made the car much more stable under hard braking when the front is loaded up (particularly on track). Now the car stays straight under hard braking. It also made the steering much more precise. No added noise vibration or harshness from these bushings.

Replacing the front end suspension parts made an absolutely awesome but subtle change to my car. I'm particularly sensitive to suspension changes so YMMV.

Still need to do steering rack bushings...


I'd suggest first doing the uppers on your car and then seeing what the result is.

brad89au

gracer7-rx7: thank you, that has been the most helpful thing i have read and i was searching through topics for at least 4 hours last night. and ottoman i plan to get the bushes as i can get the superpro adjust kit for around $400 us dollars

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Glad to hear it was helpful. That was why I posted the thread.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

I second what alberto has to say wrt the superpro bushings, they really firmed up my car's behavior under braking and transitions, at Deal's Gap this year the change from last year (with stock original bushings/pillow *****) was like night and day

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

How the F do you get the LCA separated from the spindle? I just ordered the SST from Ray, but it's gonna be a two week wait. I've tried a two arm gear puller and the Fork tool with no success!

-Dan

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

I actually had the lowers done by the suspension/brake shop I go to (Vista Brake in Vista, CA) since the car needed an alignment afterwards and they had the tools to do the bushings and align. They used one of those air fork thingies and it did take a bit of effort to remove. I was able to do the top ones with a manual ball joint fork that I bought from Autozone for a few bucks.

Jimlab had a thread where he would replace the castle nut with a nut you can afford to mangle so that the threads wouldn't get hosed and bang it hard with a hammer till it separates. Once it separates, remove the mangled nut and replace with the castle nut.

After reading that and realizing my alignment would be hosed upon removal of the LCA, I just took it to the shop.


If anyone is going to try these on their own, get the balljoint covers and snap rings new from Ray. They only cost a few bucks and you are guaranteed to mangle the original ones getting them out. Regrease with the appropriate grease and install the new rubber covers and snap rings. Always try to replace 15 year old rubber and clamps whenever you are working on something on this car.

brad89au

gracer7-rx7: did you drive your fd at all with new upper arms but the original lower arms? if so did you notice much of a difference in installing the new lower arms? as i cant really afford $500each for the lower ones atm

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

Has anyone ever developed any sort of test/criteria for telling if your balljoints are bad in the first place?

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

On my car with 120k miles, I did notice a difference just doing the upper A arms.

On my car, the lowers made a bigger difference due to the very worn bushings. It is a big nut to swallow which is why I picked up a used, low mileage set cheap.


Ptrhahn -
The FSM does have a procedure for testing the ball joints but is hard to duplicate b/c of the special tool required. When I was researching this, I found a thread in the Suspension section where someone used a fish scale to test the ball joints. If you are handy, I'd suggest testing them before laying out the cash.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

This was the thread I was referring to:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=fish+scale

Ottoman

i removed the LCA with the hub and uppper A arm togther (removed the brake caliper and ABS sensor and left them dangling) and used a smaller puller on the Steering rack knuckle

after pulling it off the car and having better access

i hammered out the upper a arm (gentle tapping is enough)

and then the large one.. u remove the crown nut.. and u hit it with a few solid wacks on the side (not the threaded knuckle itself but the main cast iron body of the hub) and it they just pop loose and let go of each other...

i did my super pro bushing install just the other week.. and this worked for both front sides..

DigDug

An easy way to separate the upper ball joint from the spindle is to wedge a large screwdriver in the split on the back of the spindle after removing the retaining bolt. Pry it a little and the shank will slide right out of the spindle with no force.

The lowers are a big-time PITA but it's the same deal on any car. Picklefork and a big hammer and you have to pound the hell out of it. Hammering on the shank with a disposable nut might help but never actually separated it for me.

As for testing ball joints, I just check for lateral play. It has to be in the same orientation that it would be with the suspension compressed, since the ball can be loose in one spot but not exhibit play in others. Both my uppers currently need to be replaced, I can get a tiny bit of movement just rocking the spindle back and forth and a faint clicking noise.

brad89au

i see now that RHDJapan offer what they call an OEM joint set ball" i wonder if this is the answer to buying new control arms, if the ball joints are actually serviceable after all. does anyone know anymore on this? possibly someone who imports parts from japan or can find out where these "oem joint set ball"s are in the car.

Brad.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Mazda refers to the tie rod ends as "ball joints" sometimes. That's probably what they're referring to.

Dave

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

BTW, for anyone interested mazda makes a lower control arm removal tool to pop out the ball joint....I think it's around $80, I'm still waiting on mine to come in.

s1mpsons

iTrader: (5)

Can you please update with your experience with the steering rack bushings?

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

Do you have the part number?

As for the suggested technique of gently tapping the knuckle on the side or covering the nut with a bolt and hammering to pop out the ball joint - all I can say is that did not work for me.

Perhaps, mine was seized but I tried heating the arm in combination with the above and spent literally hours to no avail. I also deformed the threads on the nut and had to spend another hour restoring them with a die.

A pickle fork from Autozone (free rental) did the job in 5 minutes. It did destroy the dust boot put putting a new one in is a good idea in any case - and they are only a few bucks.

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

The FSM has a testing procedure - but it does require a special tool.

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

I don't know it off the top of my head. I got it from Ray, and it took a while for me to get mine. Even the Mazda tool didn't separate my LCA from the ball joint.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Will do in about 1 month.

I actually need to do a write up on all the changes I made to the rear suspension also. Car is awesome now.