just rebuilt my omp lines
04-12-07, 05:54 PM
#1
just rebuilt my omp lines
i just rebuilt my OMP lines following a thread i believe in the 2nd gen section.
They came out great and seem better then stock. my question, which i saw the answer to awhile back, but cant find now that i need it. Anyways which oil line goes where? From what i remember the top one on the oil metering pump goes to the injector on the far side. i just wanted someone to confirm that, although i also read somewhere it doesnt matter. But just in case it does. i would like to do it how mazda did. thanks
They came out great and seem better then stock. my question, which i saw the answer to awhile back, but cant find now that i need it. Anyways which oil line goes where? From what i remember the top one on the oil metering pump goes to the injector on the far side. i just wanted someone to confirm that, although i also read somewhere it doesnt matter. But just in case it does. i would like to do it how mazda did. thanks
04-12-07, 07:17 PM
#3
yeah here is the thread i used. it's the same process for the 3rd gen. same parts too. You have to remove the old banjo fittings from the stock oil lines. i used a bench grinder and then peeled them off. Then you slip the new hoses on with the clamps and clamp it down. simple. I also took the black protective covering off the stock lines and put it on the new ones to add additional protection, though they seem pretty stout i didnt want them to rub on anything.https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=omp+line
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04-13-07, 01:45 PM
#9
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Originally Posted by Dudemaaanownsanrx7
it's on the link i posted
http://www.corbincorp.com
www.mcmaster.com).
Did you go with Corbincorp?
If you ordered from McMaster What did you go with ?
EDIT: The McMaster-Carr part numbers:
#52355K12, Tubing made with Teflon® FEP, 1/8" ID, 3/16" OD, 1/32" wall thickness, semi-clear, $1.27/ft.
#54105K34, Double-pinch SS Hose & Tube Clamp, 13/64" to 9/32" clamp ID range, Pack of 25, $7.89.
About your stuff, the 54105K34 clamps seem to be identical in every way. The tubing should be good too, however, I think I would have chosen the PFA equivalent - same page, towards the top, "Extreme-Purity PFA Tubing" number 5773K12. The description is so close though, you will be ok.
04-13-07, 07:59 PM
#11
I certainly admire your interest in doing things yourself, but I must say that the last time I replaced the metering lines the whole set was under $30.00. Now that was a year-and-a-half to two years ago so they may be higher, but the risk of leaks (and that is not to criticize your work, I am sure its fine) causes me to stick to the old reliable.
And there are, of course, braided metering lines now which I would highly recommend.
And there are, of course, braided metering lines now which I would highly recommend.
04-13-07, 09:20 PM
#12
Originally Posted by Dudemaaanownsanrx7
does anyone know where the OMP lines are supposed to run? which goes to the front housing and which to the rear?
It doesn't matter cause both rotors get equal amounts of lubrication. The main difference is the bends of the factory lines (which you removed) to make them fit in the factory line routing set-up. Don't worry about it so much dude.
Last edited by t-von; 04-13-07 at 09:33 PM.
04-13-07, 09:35 PM
#13
Originally Posted by jd to rescue
And there are, of course, braided metering lines now which I would highly recommend.
I actually dislike the braided lines. I built these exact same clear lines for my 2nd gen and love them. They are soo much better than the fancy braided steel lines people keep upgrading too. IMHO they are a waist of money. There isn't even enough pressure in the line to warrant their use. At least with clear lines, you can see the oil in the line and know your pump or oil injection nozzles are working. You can't do this with the braided lines. When I converted my lines, I failed to test my oil injection nozzles thinking they were fine. I put 6,000 miles on my rebuild then pulled the manifold to check them out. I could clearly see oil/air pockets in the lines and the oil hadn't even reached the injection nozzles. It turned out that both of my injection nozzles were bad. It was a good thing I had been pre-mixing that entire time. Seeing this problem would not have been possible with the braided lines.
04-14-07, 05:02 PM
#14
im confident in the new lines, the tubing seems like it will stand up better then the stock lines, though my stock lines are over 10 years old so who knows. In 10 years maybe the new lines will become brittle from the heat too, but i don't see any chance of them leaking. they are clamped on tight, even if you wanted to take them apart you would have difficulty. I'm not a fan of the braided lines either, the system is low pressure so it's just a matter of finding somthing to hold up to the heat. The braided lines just arent worth the cost in my opinion.
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