AchillesGr

iTrader: (1)

hi guys,
i need some help.
i ordered the innovate wideband LC-1 / XD-16 Wideband O2 kit.
do i hook the sensor in place the old sensor?
do i run both the sensors?
here is the pic:

if not, can i put it there temporarily? ( to feed the pfc for tuning and after tuning is made replace it with the stock one)
can this wideband feed the pfc?

the total distance from the engine block is about: 10in from the block to turbo + 6in from the turbo to the hole.=16 in

thanks

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Full thread: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/my-power-fc-lc-1-datalogit-wiring-diagram-707301/

put the sensor in the back of the downpipe to shield it from heat and prolong its life. the stock O2 sensor doesn't really matter. Just leave it installed, but most people disable the O2 feedback function on the Power FC, including most professional tuners.

AchillesGr

iTrader: (1)

hi,
thanks for the help.
if the stock sensor no needed any more, why not keep the wideband in the old hole? it is dificult for me to remove the pipe and put a new hole in. the about 16-20 in distance isnt enouth?
downpipe is the first pipe where the precat was?
thanks

arghx

iTrader: (3)

the new sensor works in a different way than the stock one. It is much more sensitive to heat and should be 36" from the turbos (about 90cm). The downpipe is where the precat was, yes.

Mark where you want the sensor installed on the pipe. Then take the pipe to a shop that works on exhausts, or just take the whole car there.. I have no idea if they even have exhaust shops in Greece though. You just need somebody with a good drill and a welder to install the threaded hole for the sensor.

AchillesGr

iTrader: (1)

hi ,
thanks guys...

AchillesGr

iTrader: (1)

hi arghx,

i do not know where to power the wideband from.if i power it from an accesory source as per manual that means that when i turn the key to acc the wideband starts heating. is it good or NOT? what if i do not want to start the engine?i assume that i will have serius batery drainage.

do you guys have an idea?

if i install a power switch? i have the questions:
1) what if i start the car and forgot to turn on the wideband ?can i damage the sensor if the engine started without the wideband power on?
2)install a switch before the controler or only to the sensors +12v power?(and run the controlers power to the acc source)

i read as many posts i could about that but i am not sure what to do.
can you direct me?
thanks!!!

fastassturbo2

iTrader: (9)

You need to install your power wire from your wideband to an ignition source wire. I used the wire going into the radio harness. I believe it was a blue wire with red stripe. You may want to double check that. Since it's been a while. But that should allow the wideband to cycle on and off when you turn on your car and off when you remove the key.

jmadams74

There are several threads addressing how to hook everything up with the Innovate lc-1/xd16/apexi pfc (read the grounding requirements carefully!) I think it is also covered on the Innovate site. The stock sensor position works fine. I have been using it for about 5 years with my Innovate system and had no ill effects. The innovate system also has a narrow-band output feed in addition to the wide-band feed if you want to connect it so you still have the stock 02 feedback of the original system. I just turned off the 02 feedback -- everything seems to work better that way.
--Jeff

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I've been running it like this for years on two different cars with two different widebands (AEM and Innovate). The current drain is minimal, those are maybe 18 gauge wires. It's not like you are going to sit there on a regular basis with the engine off and the key in the ignition.

What Innovate does mention is that you should probably not have the wideband running while the starter is turning. The easiest way to do that is to power the wideband with something off the accessory circuit. Otherwise you have to run a relay or a manual switch or something. That just adds more wiring crap to the car and more points of failure.

pain in the ***. What if somebody else needs to move the car, or drive it for a little while? Do you really want to feel like you are launching a space ship every time you drive your car? It wears on you after a while. Don't you want to have a car that's "normal" ? It's like switching your engine coolant fan with a switch. Most of the time you'll remember, but eventually you'll forget, and you'll get tired of having to do it in the first place.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

I power mine using the accessory switch, I also have a toggle switch wired in so I can cut power if need be. I rarely ever use the toggle switch though. If the car has sat overnight and you turn the key to the on position without starting for it for awhile, you should turn the key off for a bit to let the sensor cool. This will prevent any condensation from blowing past and shattering the hot sensor.

Fortunately if you just crank the car without sitting with it in "on" position the power won't go to the unit until the car has started, at which point it will heat up and any moisture has already blown out. Been using my sensor like this for about 2 years now with no problems.

bc_fd3s

iTrader: (2)

do NOT NOT NOT put it in the stock bung. my sensor got burned out so fast there. it needs to be down wind to not be killed and to allow the mixture to blend a bit better for an accurate reading. the kit comes with a bung. take your car to a exhaust shop and have them weld the bung on. they SHOULD be able to do it with the d/p on the car.

bc_fd3s

iTrader: (2)

this is terrible for the sensor. i almost garuntee your readings are not correct. the car should never be running without the sensor fully heated. my sensor is hooked up to acc. and I let it heat up before starting the car.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Thats retarded. The sensor still fully heats it just does so after the car is started. This was done based on the recomendation of the innovative engineer that came over to this forum answering questions. He said not to have the sensor fully heated on an engine that sat due to possibility of damage from condensation. It's obvious you don't know what you're talking about considering you already burned up a sensor.

PS: You're going to mess up another sensor by warming it before starting the car like that. Look at the innovative forum this topic is discussed all over on there.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

There's over a dozen threads talking about it, but here's one started by the man himself "klatinn"

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...ghlight=sensor

Notice number 2 on the list of things NEVER to do:

(never)While it's true that running the sensor underpowered for periods of time is bad due to carbon, this does not apply to the first few seconds or even minutes of the engine running. Once the heater is activated in that short time any carbon is immediately burned off.

bc_fd3s

iTrader: (2)

i mis-understood. i thought you just switched the whole thing off..

and it says in the manual to let the sensor heat until the "E10" or whatever goes away and stops flashing.



oh, and the sensor on my GTR lasted over a year following this procedure (until it was sold, so I don't know what the deal is now). and the sensor burned by my placing it way to close to the single turbo set up i had. it got WAY to hot... it has nothing to do with letting the sensor warm up before starting the car.

bc_fd3s

iTrader: (2)

hmm, I am starting to get a lot of different info now from reading that thread. ...

so what, I should be just turning the car on right away? this goes against what I read before...

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Yes sir. Don't preheat the sensor just turn it on and it will heat up on its own. Some people in cold, wet climates wait even longer before turning the sensor on because they had problems shattering the sensor within the first week. The main thing is to get any moisture out first. Carbon won't build up on the sensor in that short time so you'll be fine.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

For the record, on multiple cars I've preheated the sensor a bunch of times before starting without even thinking. I've never had any problems from that, but I'm certainly not going to encourage anyone else to do it. I've burned out a couple sensors but that was always from overheating the sensor during aa WOT run. On my Turbo II I do have the sensor mounted very far back in my exhaust, right before catback. That may reduce the potential for moisture issues.

AEM mentions in their wideband installation instructions that the mounting angle of the bung is important for addressing the moisture issue:

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Yeah some people may never have an issue, but others have apparently ruined sensors on a regular basis by doing this. I'm sure i've accidentally preheated it myself, but it's recommended to let it warm up after the car is started, and since its easier and safer for the sensor to just heat after, there's no sense in purposely waiting for it. The recommended mounting location for the innovative sensors is 12 o'clock at the end of the downpipe, this reduces moisture buildup around the sensor and keeps engine heat away.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

There are a couple times I have intentionally preheated my wideband so that i could log afterstart AFR as soon as possible. This was to troubleshoot cold and very hot starting idle stability issues.

I think preheating the sensor is like mounting the sensor in the factory location. For whatever reasons, a lot of people get away with either of those; but that doesn't mean it is "best practice."

Also, for reference:









that's from the Bosch LSU 4.2 technical document I found off google a while back