Ignition switch on Automatic
04-04-04, 07:56 PM
#1
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Ignition switch on Automatic
I have replaced this troublesome part (at least for me) for a third time in 4 months. I just installed a Marine battery (relocated to trunk) in my car to see if I could get a better charge and the ignition switch just tanked out. Is anyone out there with this problem in their FD? I also get that annoying "click" when I try to start my car. Usually about one minute of clicking and the damn thing starts. I have talked to one too many mechanics that have no clue what the problem is with my car!
04-06-04, 02:14 PM
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I had the same problem with the starting of my auto FD. After, getting the car on a lift, and doing some invetigating, I found that it was the ignition terminal on the solenoid of the starter. The tab had been bent back and forth causing it to crack. It would only make contact some of the time. It would finally barely make contact when the solenoid was energized from the key in the car. I orderd a new solenoid from Autozone ($45.00 or so) and have not had a problem since.
-Cody
-Cody
04-06-04, 08:01 PM
#3
5yr member, joined 2001
Originally posted by cgbtf
I had the same problem with the starting of my auto FD. After, getting the car on a lift, and doing some invetigating, I found that it was the ignition terminal on the solenoid of the starter. The tab had been bent back and forth causing it to crack. It would only make contact some of the time. It would finally barely make contact when the solenoid was energized from the key in the car. I orderd a new solenoid from Autozone ($45.00 or so) and have not had a problem since.
-Cody
I had the same problem with the starting of my auto FD. After, getting the car on a lift, and doing some invetigating, I found that it was the ignition terminal on the solenoid of the starter. The tab had been bent back and forth causing it to crack. It would only make contact some of the time. It would finally barely make contact when the solenoid was energized from the key in the car. I orderd a new solenoid from Autozone ($45.00 or so) and have not had a problem since.
-Cody
04-07-04, 06:47 PM
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Thanks
Thanks Cody... I will relay this to my mechanic!
I have tried almost everything but this!
As far as saying "energized", does this mean you turned the key a crap-load of times just to start the car?
-Alex
I have tried almost everything but this!
As far as saying "energized", does this mean you turned the key a crap-load of times just to start the car?
-Alex
Last edited by zandor5; 04-07-04 at 06:56 PM.
04-08-04, 07:11 PM
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Wow.Im glad someone actually figured this out.I have the same damn problem.Turn the key and sometimes the car starts on the first try and sometimes I have to turn the key a crap load of times before she cranks up.All I get is clicking and nothing else.Damn annoying if you ask me.Thanx for the valuable info.
04-13-04, 09:29 PM
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ignition
Just placed a special order for the starter solenoid. Cost me only $45.99. They had several pieces!!!! If Cody is right (and I think he is), this will make me hella happy. I have burned 3 switches and I am waiting for this miracle to make my baby run on the first turn of the key!! Keep your heads up boys!!
-Zandor5
Santa Ana, CA
-Zandor5
Santa Ana, CA
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04-13-04, 09:44 PM
#8
i am all one the same boat as u auto owners. I had the familiar click click couple times till itd start up. First the ignition switch burnt out, so i replaced it. Then same prob so i replaced the starter(supposedly good condition but i mighta got screwed on that deal) and am experiencing same prob. Also i replaced the battery so im a lil stumped. I had someone tell me that the ignition switch could be drawing too much current which would cause it to burn out ALOT sooner then it should but im convinced my starter may still be the culprit....
so hopefully that cures my prob
05-01-04, 05:46 PM
#10
Rotary Enthusiast
i had the same problem with my auto. i replaced the ignition switch and the starter. finaly went to tri point and they wired a relay to the starter works fine now i guess is was'nt getting enough volts.
05-01-04, 08:45 PM
#11
Constant threat
I fought this forever and finally just added a push button starter button to the system...and it has worked like a charm ever since. It is important if you do this to keep the original wiring on the starter, or else you will get an 'ABS' warning light popping up.
05-02-04, 10:13 PM
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probable solution
One of my co-workers had given me some brief info on push-button starters and remote key starters to fire up automatic 3rd gens. I guess the key is getting someone who can install a relay that can give a good charge on the first turn of the ignition.
Anyway, I am sure as butter on pancakes that these types of starters are cheap alternatives to relieve this pain in the *** problem.
03-03-05, 09:16 PM
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I just replaced the starter on an auto with same problem and it did not go away. After reading this whole tread there must be a weak point that just about all these cars have. I test three autos in the last few weeks and all had the same problem. I'll try the ignition switch next time but the solenoid is included with a reman starter. Any other insites? I've check the grounds, connections, etx.
03-03-05, 09:44 PM
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I am just assuming the difference between an auto and stick is the style of neutral safety switch?? That may be where the resistance is. I would jump the neutral safety switch (being careful along the way) and see if it helps the life of the other parts. I can see how it might skew a ignition switch but not a starter. The relay is not a hard unit to install. Shoot most motor homes end up with that set up along with lots of built V8 set ups. Really to test the circuit is simple on paper but in real life its a pain. Preform a voltage drop test from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid and move back until you find the restriction. Easier said than done in real life getting to the test points. I still say the odd part is the neutral safety switch on the autos.
03-03-05, 10:28 PM
#19
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Read my TSB list -
http://www.clubrx.org/media/FDTSB.pdf
There's a TSB about an updated wiring harness that goes to the starter on the automatic. The wire gets hot and doesn't carry the current to the starter properly.
Also, since the autos have a "backwards" starter, the starter and wiring are MUCH closer to a great deal of heat than the manuals. This is gonna be harder on those components over time.
One of you auto guys needs to get the updated harness in the TSB and give that a shot. I bet the harness isn't that much from Malloy either.
Dale
http://www.clubrx.org/media/FDTSB.pdf
There's a TSB about an updated wiring harness that goes to the starter on the automatic. The wire gets hot and doesn't carry the current to the starter properly.
Also, since the autos have a "backwards" starter, the starter and wiring are MUCH closer to a great deal of heat than the manuals. This is gonna be harder on those components over time.
One of you auto guys needs to get the updated harness in the TSB and give that a shot. I bet the harness isn't that much from Malloy either.
Dale
03-03-05, 10:31 PM
#20
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BTW, it's TSB G00193, Engine - No Start After a Heat Soak. Part number for the new harness is FDY1 67 SHO.
Dale
Dale
03-04-05, 06:54 PM
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How many weak points can these cars have that keep them all not starting right. Seems like everyone is fixing something different and maybe getting them to work.
Does anyone with a 94 auto not or never had this problem???
Does anyone with a 94 auto not or never had this problem???
03-05-05, 08:43 AM
#22
I can offer this...I was automatic for 45k miles, then ( shortly after the single turbo install and "fusing" the rev/1st clutch pack together ) I went Manual. I had the "turn key/click" start thing with the auto, now with the manual - always a start.
I tried all the other stuff, but now that I have done this swap I believe the problem was at the Inhibitor switch on the auto tranny not making good contact.
If you want to try something - look at this...In your manual, page Z26, find the A2-04 connector on the tranny. See the L/Y and R/Y wires ? Make a little aligator clip jumper and skin back some insulation on those two wires at the tranny ( pass side ) and jumper the two. Now this will make the car "startable" in R,D, L etc. But just make sure it's in Park and if it starts everytime. IF it starts every time now, there's your problem.
Disclaimer - doing so will allow the car to be started in Drive/Reverse/Low.
Tom
I tried all the other stuff, but now that I have done this swap I believe the problem was at the Inhibitor switch on the auto tranny not making good contact.
If you want to try something - look at this...In your manual, page Z26, find the A2-04 connector on the tranny. See the L/Y and R/Y wires ? Make a little aligator clip jumper and skin back some insulation on those two wires at the tranny ( pass side ) and jumper the two. Now this will make the car "startable" in R,D, L etc. But just make sure it's in Park and if it starts everytime. IF it starts every time now, there's your problem.
Disclaimer - doing so will allow the car to be started in Drive/Reverse/Low.
Tom
03-05-05, 11:23 AM
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Solution to starting problem
I just spoke to Nick Van Nugeteren, owner of Rotary Reliability and Racing in Costa Mesa, Ca. He informed me that he and his mechanics have a procedure to cure the auto all of it's starting ills. If any of you auto "7" owners with this prob wanted expert advice on this matter, hit up these guys at the # posted at the bottom of this thread. And if you live in SoCal, they will be more than happy to take care of the problem for you at a reasonable price. They have done every mod on my car and I feel they are the best at what they do. Hope this helps!
-Zandor5
(714) 839-8018 M-F 8am-5pm
or visit rotaryracing.com
-Zandor5
(714) 839-8018 M-F 8am-5pm
or visit rotaryracing.com
03-05-05, 08:22 PM
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Any Idea what Rotary Reliablility is suggesting?nIs it the same as in the comment above about the no start in gear switch. That make alot of sense to me.
Has anyone else replaced their no start in gear switch and found that to be the problem? And how hard is it to actually replace??
Has anyone else replaced their no start in gear switch and found that to be the problem? And how hard is it to actually replace??
03-06-05, 08:48 AM
#25
Constant threat
It will be interesting to someday find out what the cause REALLY is....so many of us have come up with 'fixes' that basically just circumvent the problem. Hell, I replaced my starter at $300 only to keep having the same problem. And as I stated wayyyyyyyy back when this thread was newer I just ended up putting a remote push button starter in and have not had a lick of trouble. It makes for a bit of a problem though when the car is somewhere where a different driver is trying to start it....lol! I had a mechanic call me up and say, "How the **** do you start this car???" 
