How to test Solenoids?

Madmax670 · 11-09-04, 01:49 PM

Can someone tell me step by step how to test solenoids, i did a search and didnt find anything useful, thanks a lot.

adam c · 11-09-04, 01:59 PM

Remove the solenoid. Put positive current to one end, and ground to the other end. When connected, the solenoid will open, or close. You should ba able to blow thru it, and not be able to blow thru it when the current is changed.

Try not to shock yourself during testing.

Madmax670 · 11-09-04, 02:03 PM

will do, does it matter what current is at what terminal, does it matter what flow through what tube??

KevinK2 · 11-09-04, 02:05 PM

or burn yourself.

should preheat solenoid in an oven at 150F .... some only stick when hot.

Fred Sickert · 11-09-04, 02:14 PM

Also, best to use an old DC adapter for power source, just cut the connector off of an old phone adapter or something.

Madmax670 · 11-09-04, 02:33 PM

do i really have to take off the rats nest of vacuum hoses?? (please say no, looks like a yes though) it was already a pain in the *** to take off the UIM

edv · 11-09-04, 03:19 PM

Check out the page that Dave made...it's pretty informative.
At the bottom of the page is a video. Very nice.

http://rx7.voodoobox.net/howto/solen...oid_check.html

Madmax670 · 11-09-04, 06:11 PM

are you really in tripoli edv?

edv · 11-09-04, 06:35 PM

I'm in Cochrane right now.

alberto_mg · 11-09-04, 06:58 PM

The factory service manual has a very good description of how to do it. Download the FSM at iluvmyrx7.com

books · 11-09-04, 09:07 PM

You should be able to test each solenoid at the ecu harness. Remove your ecu and ground the connector momentarily at the connector side of the associated ecu pin. You should hear the solenoid click. For example ground the connector side of pin 4S to test the Charge Relief solenoid. The ignition needs to be in the on position so you have 12 volts to the solenoid. If you have difficulty hearing the solenoid, solder a long wire to a sewing needle. Place the sewing needle in the connector and then ground it somewhere in the engine bay. You only need to touch a ground point for a portion of a second to test the solenoid.

Madmax670 · 11-09-04, 09:34 PM

i dont feel like ruining anything, im not THAT advanced yet, thank you for the input though, also, i need to test the solenoid in the respect of it being able to hold pressure and release it well too, i dont think u can do that from the ECU connector

Nick13B · 11-09-04, 09:40 PM

somebody should fabricate a solenoid tester , one that would fit the ECU plug and have a switch for each solenoid, click the switch if you get a green light its good or you could just listen for the clicking. Hmmmm I am an electrician and I have alot of time on my hands and my dad happens to have 20 + years experience in 12 volt application...I should try and come up with something I am sure it would sell like hotcakes

Madmax670 · 11-09-04, 09:50 PM

i would buy one in about 30 seconds, although u cannot test the ability of the solenoid to hold and release pressure..... figure that out and u got a goldmine

books · 11-09-04, 10:22 PM

I find it easier to test the electrical operation of the solenoids via the harness vs. pulling out the rats nest. From your response it appears you want to test whether or not they are holding pressure as well as activating. You should be aware that some of the solenoids have 3 ports making it difficult to pressure test while on the vehicle. I have removed all the solenoids previously to check them. I have also heated them in an oven and tested them warm.

Do you have some specific problem or solenoid you are attempting to diagnose?

jaj1 · 11-09-04, 10:44 PM

Dave's write up and test procedure is very good.
http://rx7.voodoobox.net/howto/sole...noid_check.html
If you don't have a spare actuator you can use your pressure and
vacuum tanks instead. If you don't have a vacuum/pressure pump?
Autozone or someplace like that should have one. You can even sometimes
rent them or get a loaner pump. You can also make some jumpers and just
use a car battery for applying the volts.
If it is a secondary turbo issue? It is probably one or all of the following.
One or both turbo control solenoids.
Charge relief solenoid.
This is assuming you have checked all tanks hoses and check
valves first.
You can get new solenoids from Ray at Malloy for about $50.00 a piece.
888-533-3400
I think you can get most or all of the solenoids out without removing
the rats nest. You will have to remove the coils to get them out, not a
big deal if you removed the UIM. Use a long screw driver to gently with slight
forward and down pressure on the solenoid clip to remove from the rack.