How to spot bad turbos?
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How to spot bad turbos?
Ok, let's say for argument's sake that you are going to check out an FD for potential purchase. A compression tester will reveal if the engine is any good, and you can look at the radiator for bubbles if the seals are decent. But what about the turbos?
1. Will the classic 10-8-10 boost pattern tell you all that you have to know?
2. What if the car is stock and has no boost gauge?
3. Will there be tell tale oil leakage around the turbos if the seals are bad?
4. What is the best way to predict how long they may last?
5. Typically, I have seen replacement turbos offered new as a set for around $3,000. Recent research seems to suggest that rebuilds are difficult because parts are getting scarce. For someone who is looking at a car with a good engine but marginal turbos, should you just walk away and find a different car or hammer the price down with the expectation that something can be done about the turbos?
1. Will the classic 10-8-10 boost pattern tell you all that you have to know?
2. What if the car is stock and has no boost gauge?
3. Will there be tell tale oil leakage around the turbos if the seals are bad?
4. What is the best way to predict how long they may last?
5. Typically, I have seen replacement turbos offered new as a set for around $3,000. Recent research seems to suggest that rebuilds are difficult because parts are getting scarce. For someone who is looking at a car with a good engine but marginal turbos, should you just walk away and find a different car or hammer the price down with the expectation that something can be done about the turbos?
#2
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1. That is a good indication that the turbos and vacuum system are functioning right. My turbos were blowing all kinds of oil, but still boosted fine, keep that in mind.
2. A stock car in good working order should begin it pull around 2000-2500 rpm, and keep pulling hard til redline, with a small "hiccup" around 4500rpm. While you can't read a gauge, your butt will tell you alot.
3. I think in most cases, yes. Specifically, the secondary compressor housing drips. Also check the IC tubes for excessive oil. A film is ok, pools are not. Also, smoking is an indication that the turbos might be bad, it could also be oil seals in the engine, so this is less cinclusive than oil in the IC pipe.
4.Not with any reliability. If they aren't leaking and they are boosting fine, there would be no reason to suspect that they will fail soon.
5. IMO, the turbos are an easy fix if they are bad. Not always cheap, but it is easy to get everything mechanically sound again. I would focus more on the interior, exterior, 5th gear synchro, suspension bushings, etc. (mainly the first two.) It will take much more time and/or money to bring those back to good condition.
2. A stock car in good working order should begin it pull around 2000-2500 rpm, and keep pulling hard til redline, with a small "hiccup" around 4500rpm. While you can't read a gauge, your butt will tell you alot.
3. I think in most cases, yes. Specifically, the secondary compressor housing drips. Also check the IC tubes for excessive oil. A film is ok, pools are not. Also, smoking is an indication that the turbos might be bad, it could also be oil seals in the engine, so this is less cinclusive than oil in the IC pipe.
4.Not with any reliability. If they aren't leaking and they are boosting fine, there would be no reason to suspect that they will fail soon.
5. IMO, the turbos are an easy fix if they are bad. Not always cheap, but it is easy to get everything mechanically sound again. I would focus more on the interior, exterior, 5th gear synchro, suspension bushings, etc. (mainly the first two.) It will take much more time and/or money to bring those back to good condition.
Last edited by ISUposs; 02-14-04 at 01:22 PM.
#3
Rotary Freak
Great info ISUposs.
FWIW, upon reinstalling my rebuilt motor, my mechanic said that my turbos were looking pretty bad(cracks). He said that it wouldn't be worth spending the time to port the wstgate since I was gonna have to get the turbos swapped out soon. My car has boosted fine before and after the new engine installation. It's been six months and things are stioll good.
FWIW, upon reinstalling my rebuilt motor, my mechanic said that my turbos were looking pretty bad(cracks). He said that it wouldn't be worth spending the time to port the wstgate since I was gonna have to get the turbos swapped out soon. My car has boosted fine before and after the new engine installation. It's been six months and things are stioll good.
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I just ordered a Turbo Kit for my primary Turbo. Seems like the hardest part of the rebuild will be taking the Turbos/Manifold off the engine (I hope!!) Anyway, the number one indication for me that the primary turbo needs a rebuid (and not the Engine) is that the smoke only occurs when boost starts to climb at normal driving and at WOT, BUT NOT after secondary transition.
Also getting little puddles of oil in the long IC pipe connecting to the compression tube.
Also getting little puddles of oil in the long IC pipe connecting to the compression tube.
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Originally posted by areXseven
I just ordered a Turbo Kit for my primary Turbo. Seems like the hardest part of the rebuild will be taking the Turbos/Manifold off the engine (I hope!!) Anyway, the number one indication for me that the primary turbo needs a rebuid (and not the Engine) is that the smoke only occurs when boost starts to climb at normal driving and at WOT, BUT NOT after secondary transition.
Also getting little puddles of oil in the long IC pipe connecting to the compression tube.
I just ordered a Turbo Kit for my primary Turbo. Seems like the hardest part of the rebuild will be taking the Turbos/Manifold off the engine (I hope!!) Anyway, the number one indication for me that the primary turbo needs a rebuid (and not the Engine) is that the smoke only occurs when boost starts to climb at normal driving and at WOT, BUT NOT after secondary transition.
Also getting little puddles of oil in the long IC pipe connecting to the compression tube.
I think you should order it, is not to late.
I'm just trying to save you some extra work and headache in the long run.
BTW, who did you order the kit from ?
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The second Turbo is producing exceptional boost and is not leaking. It's kicking in pretty hard!! The kit was ordered from www.turbocity.com. The kit is $150.00 per turbo
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Thanks for the info. That $150 kit seems like a cheap fix Even if x2 it's still only $300. There was no description of contents of the kit. I assume there are seals only, maybe a bearing? Certainly no turbine impeller for that price. What's in it?
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Originally posted by Mazda99Nikon
Thanks for the info. That $150 kit seems like a cheap fix Even if x2 it's still only $300. There was no description of contents of the kit. I assume there are seals only, maybe a bearing? Certainly no turbine impeller for that price. What's in it?
Thanks for the info. That $150 kit seems like a cheap fix Even if x2 it's still only $300. There was no description of contents of the kit. I assume there are seals only, maybe a bearing? Certainly no turbine impeller for that price. What's in it?
FYI: The item/stock number for the "FD" Turbo Repair Kit is....#300-050
Last edited by areXseven; 02-15-04 at 07:47 AM.
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Originally posted by areXseven
The second Turbo is producing exceptional boost and is not leaking. It's kicking in pretty hard!! The kit was ordered from www.turbocity.com. The kit is $150.00 per turbo
The second Turbo is producing exceptional boost and is not leaking. It's kicking in pretty hard!! The kit was ordered from www.turbocity.com. The kit is $150.00 per turbo
Shaft play was huge, and after the reb. it was amazingly gone 90%.
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Originally posted by TwinTurbo93
The reason I asked you was b/c I got the TurboCity rebuild kits also, and I did both of them at the same time, even though neither one of them leaked nor smoked, but I had over 107K miles, so I was afraid they'll scratch around the housing and feed my motor with metal pieces.
Shaft play was huge, and after the reb. it was amazingly gone 90%.
The reason I asked you was b/c I got the TurboCity rebuild kits also, and I did both of them at the same time, even though neither one of them leaked nor smoked, but I had over 107K miles, so I was afraid they'll scratch around the housing and feed my motor with metal pieces.
Shaft play was huge, and after the reb. it was amazingly gone 90%.
What was the number one hardest part of the rebuild??
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Originally posted by Mazda99Nikon
Thanks for the photo. So simple, so problematic.
Thanks for the photo. So simple, so problematic.
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