ppritchard

Trying to remove the pulley and timing plate to get at the CAS.

When I try to remove the 4 10mm bolts, I just end up turning the pulley.

How do I keep the shaft still so I can break the bolts loose. Did not see anything in the FSM, only to remove the 4 bolts.

As always, Thanks!

I did try to remove the Sensors without taking the pulley off, but I could not find a way to get a wrench or socket on the bolts. There is room to do it, if you have the right tool.

cr-rex

iTrader: (114)

i 100% promise you the cas can be removed without removing the pulley and they can be accessed with a 10mm wrench.

to remove the main pulley:
~~~overtighten the drive belts slightly to add tension to main so it doesnt turn
~~put your 10mm socket on the bolt and quickly snap the wrench left to break torque on the bolt. similar to what an impact would do.
~once all 4 bolts are loose, remove your drive belts and then remove the pulley

if you still cant get the bolts loose with that method then you will need a second socket to hold and opposite bolt and then loosen liken normal.

ppritchard

I believe You can remove those sensors but for whatever reason, I just couldn't get a socket or wrench on them.

Thanks for the ideas on the bolts, already removed belts so I'll have to try the opposite socket idea.

ZE Power MX6

iTrader: (157)

Have you try holding the eshaft with a ratchet to stop it from spinning?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

maybe you can, maybe you have a stripped down version of an FD as well. with a stock FD it's easier to just take the pulley off, and i'm not sure why you think the belts and 4 bolts are all that hard to remove either.

the 4 main pulley bolts shouldn't be extremely tight. hold the crank pulley with a 19mm open end wrench while you remove the 10mm bolts. slightly different trick, turn your ratchet so gravity is holding it facing down and hold the head of the ratchet with your spare hand pushing the head of the ratchet toward the bolt, with a swift hit with the palm of your hand on the ratchet the quick force will usually knock the bolts loose.

ppritchard

I used the 19mm, but a socket instead of an open end. It worked fine. Thanks!

Now pulleys are off and CAS bracket is off.

Any trick on unhooking the electrical connection from the old CAS without any problems?

Thanks.

ppritchard

Ok,

Now I find that the 2nd CAS has a broken bracket.

I could try to superglue it, but I'm guessing heat and oil would only make the fix temporary.

Seems like the bracket would hold it in the Right position . . .

Probably get another sensor and play it safe.

Thanks for all the help guys.

ZE Power MX6

iTrader: (157)

Use a small flat head, softly press on the clip while pull the wire with the other hand, slowly push down on the clip till the plug come lose.

cr-rex

iTrader: (114)

stripped down or stock, ive done it both and i never said the belts were hard to remove. what im getting at is not creating more work than required. its in no way difficult but its also not necessary to remove. its like removing the seat to get to the ecu: yes it would make it easier and its not difficult but by no means is it necessary.

fortunately the op got it off but unfortunately now he has to replace both instead of just the one. as it seems though, the other one was already broken under the bracket so this was a blessing in disguise.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

1. You do not have to remove the main pulley to change the CAS.
2. A pulley can be held with a strap wrench to keep it from spinning.
3. Replace the CAS. A cracked one can throw off your timing and cost you a motor.

ppritchard

Thanks.

Replacing the cracked CAS.

Hope nothing was damaged when the NE CAS was knocked off, engine was idling and died immediately.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

nah

ppritchard

Thanks for all the help guys.

Back together now, fired right up.

Possible Bonus was a knocking noise that I had been chasing forever seems to be either gone or much decreased. I'm thinking that maybe in taking the pulleys off and back on maybe something is tighter or aligned better. Or perhaps one of the sensors had been too close to the timing wheel. Of course, it could come right back once I drive the car for more that a few minutes. Also, it might be that I have the belts tighter and somehow that stopped the knocking noise.

We'll see.

As always, thanks for the help.