This is how "I" perform my oil change **PICS** 56k killer!!
03-01-04, 08:41 PM
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This is how "I" perform my oil change **PICS** 56k killer!!
So yeah I washed my car (twice, wash once, then clay bar then wash again) last weekend (took both days along with an extra 6hrs or so of detail) and then came the oil change (took another 1.5 hrs, trust me I do a very complete job)
Then it came to me while I was under there that I should take some pics because I feel my method is unusual. Most of you can figure out why my car is positioned the way it is so yeah here goes nothing:
Then it came to me while I was under there that I should take some pics because I feel my method is unusual. Most of you can figure out why my car is positioned the way it is so yeah here goes nothing:
03-01-04, 09:20 PM
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Which clay bar did you use? Put quite a reflection on her! Good job, and I'll have to try that, however it can't be too good on the car for long periods of time. An hour or two can't hurt though
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03-01-04, 09:49 PM
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xstacy7 - I used Mother's Claybar kit thingy. The clay bar wasn't on there too long, probably a few min max. It was the after wax that I spent the most time with. I used Zymol (Light blueish liquid wax) and spread it all over the car and let it marinate with the paint. Just letting it chill on the car for around 30min or so then wipe it off by hand, I don't use electric buffers or anything for all my detailing. Then after that I throw on a few layers of polishing spray wax from Meguairs. That stuff is great and it's what makes it glisen.
-Dan
-Dan
03-01-04, 10:39 PM
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Originally posted by wylie
not too unusual; drain plug is on that side of pan.
Car looks nice.
not too unusual; drain plug is on that side of pan.
Car looks nice.
non R1-R2 models. Thus allowing all the oil to drain out.
Nice pics man!
03-02-04, 01:33 AM
#14
I'm a CF and poop smith
personnaly, i use ramps with jack stands not touching the frame underneath the car just in case it falls. where are your jack stands resting on? different strokes for different folkes. nice car in anycase
P.S. i think your kinda wasting your time with turning your car like that because...
1: jack stands should be level, that is not safe because the car could slip.
2: oilcooler is holding some oil
3: engine is holding a bit of oil
4: our oil plug is not in the corner so even though you could drain it to that side, its not gonna all come out
5: you dont need to take all your oil out! you should be changing it every 500-1k miles. you should be using the cheapest gas you can find because you know our engines burn oil as well. also, highly modded cars need new engines every few years anyways so save your cash for the rebuild and/or if you are just taking it easy with stock boost, your engine should run over 100k miles easily without any problems with cheap oil which is probally better for it.
i could go on and on but bleh, i should just shut up cuz its your money and your car, do as you like
and again, nice car
P.S. i think your kinda wasting your time with turning your car like that because...
1: jack stands should be level, that is not safe because the car could slip.
2: oilcooler is holding some oil
3: engine is holding a bit of oil
4: our oil plug is not in the corner so even though you could drain it to that side, its not gonna all come out
5: you dont need to take all your oil out! you should be changing it every 500-1k miles. you should be using the cheapest gas you can find because you know our engines burn oil as well. also, highly modded cars need new engines every few years anyways so save your cash for the rebuild and/or if you are just taking it easy with stock boost, your engine should run over 100k miles easily without any problems with cheap oil which is probally better for it.
i could go on and on but bleh, i should just shut up cuz its your money and your car, do as you like
and again, nice car
03-02-04, 02:05 AM
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Ah yes the ramps, I keep telling myself that I need to get a pair or two of those badboys but somehow I always keep forgetting. Besides the 2 jackstands, I know it's dangerous like that, that's why I always have the 3-ton hand pump jack thingy. The jackstands are resting on the jack stand points.
And to comment on your comments:
1. Answered above.
2. I doubt anyone could drain all the original out of the oil cooler unless you take it apart and suck that **** out.
3. Engine is still holding a bit of oil, but far less than if I drained it if the car is completely leveled. To me the more frequent clean oil there is in the motor, the longer it'll last. Which is why I have been changing my oil at very quick intervals, and with the best possible oil that I could find and have experimented with to yield best results.
5. I seriously can't buy anything cheap for my car simply because it's my baby, and yeah it's my car. You get what you pay for right? I doubt the cheapest oil will give me same protection as good synthetic oil even if I changed it at 1k miles.
And lastly the money I put into the car is justified to me because the better I keep it maintained the longer it'll last, which means I can drive it for a much longer duration before the time comes for a rebuild. And when the rebuild comes it won't be as bad because I've taken the time to carefully maintain it. Oh well that is all. Good night.
-Dan
And to comment on your comments:
1. Answered above.
2. I doubt anyone could drain all the original out of the oil cooler unless you take it apart and suck that **** out.
3. Engine is still holding a bit of oil, but far less than if I drained it if the car is completely leveled. To me the more frequent clean oil there is in the motor, the longer it'll last. Which is why I have been changing my oil at very quick intervals, and with the best possible oil that I could find and have experimented with to yield best results.
5. I seriously can't buy anything cheap for my car simply because it's my baby, and yeah it's my car. You get what you pay for right? I doubt the cheapest oil will give me same protection as good synthetic oil even if I changed it at 1k miles.
And lastly the money I put into the car is justified to me because the better I keep it maintained the longer it'll last, which means I can drive it for a much longer duration before the time comes for a rebuild. And when the rebuild comes it won't be as bad because I've taken the time to carefully maintain it. Oh well that is all. Good night.
-Dan
Originally posted by skunks
personnaly, i use ramps with jack stands not touching the frame underneath the car just in case it falls. where are your jack stands resting on? different strokes for different folkes. nice car in anycase
P.S. i think your kinda wasting your time with turning your car like that because...
1: jack stands should be level, that is not safe because the car could slip.
2: oilcooler is holding some oil
3: engine is holding a bit of oil
4: our oil plug is not in the corner so even though you could drain it to that side, its not gonna all come out
5: you dont need to take all your oil out! you should be changing it every 500-1k miles. you should be using the cheapest gas you can find because you know our engines burn oil as well. also, highly modded cars need new engines every few years anyways so save your cash for the rebuild and/or if you are just taking it easy with stock boost, your engine should run over 100k miles easily without any problems with cheap oil which is probally better for it.
i could go on and on but bleh, i should just shut up cuz its your money and your car, do as you like
and again, nice car
personnaly, i use ramps with jack stands not touching the frame underneath the car just in case it falls. where are your jack stands resting on? different strokes for different folkes. nice car in anycase
P.S. i think your kinda wasting your time with turning your car like that because...
1: jack stands should be level, that is not safe because the car could slip.
2: oilcooler is holding some oil
3: engine is holding a bit of oil
4: our oil plug is not in the corner so even though you could drain it to that side, its not gonna all come out
5: you dont need to take all your oil out! you should be changing it every 500-1k miles. you should be using the cheapest gas you can find because you know our engines burn oil as well. also, highly modded cars need new engines every few years anyways so save your cash for the rebuild and/or if you are just taking it easy with stock boost, your engine should run over 100k miles easily without any problems with cheap oil which is probally better for it.
i could go on and on but bleh, i should just shut up cuz its your money and your car, do as you like
and again, nice car
03-02-04, 07:56 AM
#17
I'm a CF and poop smith
Originally posted by EVLRX7
is it me or is the inside of your tired bald...that sucks i really hate that...its such a waste of a tire...
is it me or is the inside of your tired bald...that sucks i really hate that...its such a waste of a tire...
i didnt even see that they are on the threads (im pretty sure they are) id seriously get those tires changed out asap if i were you, driving on threads is like... driving on threads
03-02-04, 12:33 PM
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I seem to remember the anecdotal reason was that synthetic doesnt burn as well and leaves more carbon deposits. I think I may eventually join the "2 stroke resivoir for the OMP and synthetic in the crankcase" crowd as it seems to be the best idea.
03-02-04, 12:50 PM
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I've tested several oils including 3 or so brands of full synthetic and I've concluded that for my car it runs better with RP 20W50 out of all other other oils I've experimented with. (Redline & Mobil 1)
93blackFD - I'm aware of that problem, got it covered bud. I pour in an extra half quart of new oil into the motor before I plug it back up that way it'll lubricate all the internals before I finish everything up. Like I said, I do a very complete job and make sure I get in as much new oil as I can. Maybe that's why my motor is still running so strong @ ~60k miles on the motor. And also spark plugs and wires and of course the oil filters are also a must and changed very frequently as well.
Oh one more thing, I'm also aware of the tire problem, it'll be replaced any day now when I get a chance to get out to the warehouse and get some better tires.
-Dan
93blackFD - I'm aware of that problem, got it covered bud. I pour in an extra half quart of new oil into the motor before I plug it back up that way it'll lubricate all the internals before I finish everything up. Like I said, I do a very complete job and make sure I get in as much new oil as I can. Maybe that's why my motor is still running so strong @ ~60k miles on the motor.
And also spark plugs and wires and of course the oil filters are also a must and changed very frequently as well.Oh one more thing, I'm also aware of the tire problem, it'll be replaced any day now when I get a chance to get out to the warehouse and get some better tires.
-Dan
03-02-04, 02:15 PM
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Originally posted by BMike
I seem to remember the anecdotal reason was that synthetic doesnt burn as well and leaves more carbon deposits. I think I may eventually join the "2 stroke resivoir for the OMP and synthetic in the crankcase" crowd as it seems to be the best idea.
I seem to remember the anecdotal reason was that synthetic doesnt burn as well and leaves more carbon deposits. I think I may eventually join the "2 stroke resivoir for the OMP and synthetic in the crankcase" crowd as it seems to be the best idea.
