RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

so i have real bad wheel hop when i drop the clutch (as i think most of us do), and a rear suspension clunk to boot! how do i fix this? just get new bushings?

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

And don't drop the clutch . Sorry not the fun answer your looking for but the reality of IRS cars is badddd wheelhop on hard launches. They handle like mothers but drag launch like bitches!!

fdeeznutz

Get a rear diff brace. People say it will eliminate wheel hop

Beast From The East

The axles will still bounce around. It will reduce the amount of energy stored in the diff bushings, but it won't eliminate it.

The clunk is most likely your pillow ball bushings. They go out and require replacing about every 100K miles depending upon your driving style. It's a straightforward but bitch of a job.

BTW - nice Voltron avatar, fdeeznutz. Reminds me of junior high....(a good thing - loved Shogun warriors and other Japanese animation, as my avatar suggests).

Beast From The East

The axles will still bounce around. It will reduce the amount of energy stored in the diff bushings, but it won't eliminate it.

The clunk is most likely your pillow ball bushings. They go out and require replacing about every 100K miles depending upon your driving style. It's a straightforward but bitch of a job.

BTW - nice Voltron avatar, fdeeznutz. Reminds me of junior high....

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

hehehe i remember voltron! the not so cool transformers! what was that other one...oh yeah remember go-bots?

anyway, im pretty sure that the pillow ball bushings need to be replaced... the car has 83K on it and ive only had it for 10K. i dont know what happend to it before me. speaking of drag launches... which i hardly ever do but am trying to get my 1/4 times... whats the best way? slip it a little untill you are rolling and then pull the clutch out all the way? i have a stock clutch

Beast From The East

Dropping with street tires just yields hop and spin, so the slip and go method is best. Losing traction = losing time. If you have sticky drag tires or slicks, then the drop method works.

Beast

tiluin

i dropped it, wheel hopped like a bitch. 14.1@100mph
stock, first time out.

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

When i do drag, I get rolling first then give it Hell!! Easier on the drivetrain components. I also had a ACT6 puck unsprung lightswitch for a clutch. The pillowballs will help eliminate some of that clunking. Some people who track there cars have had the pillowsballs go out after as little as 5k miles i think.( It may have been DamonB?) Like Beast said, The energy will be dcreased but not eliminated. Also for piece of mind jack up the car on stands and crawl around under the car looking at the drivetrain components,like the PPF,Axles, motor mounts, etc..) Eliminate all possible causes. For a comparison to above... I dropped it first time out ran a 13.88@108.5mph. Second launch the same,third launch ,.....Left my Diff on the ground 20 feet out of the box!!!! WOOOHOOO!!!!!( all runs had wheelhopp like a mother) Carefull with the launches or you WILL find the "weakest link" !!

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

well better than my 14.5 @ 102 (thats what the gtech tells me anyway)... i must be doing something wrong, frankly i have never tryed launching this car untill now, im afraid i will break something in 1st... seems really horrible to the car but in my miata i have no problems

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

If it is hurting you to hear/feel it when it happens, ...think of what the car is going thru.

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

yeah, 2 nights ago was the first time in 3 years that ive had the car that i ever tryed to drag it.... i dont like it one bit! i want a 1/4 mi time for comparison to see if the car is normal compared to other cars w/ similar mods but i dont want to go back out there and try again

Beast From The East

That's what I did before blowing my last motor with hybrid twins. The best 60' times I could get was 2.1. That's about all you can do with street tires.

The slip start, 3/4 throttle 2nd, full bore 3rd and 4th method is the best way to go with street tires. Keeping traction at the very edge yields the best times. I'm just not very good.

Heading to the track with my new t04s setup will be lots of fun until I get my new 17" rg-r's. Then I can put MT Streets on my stock wheels and get the 1.6 60' times :-) and hope I don't blow the rear all to hell.

Beast

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

im running 225 s02's right now... it was night and cold out so maybe they werent sticking so well + the ground may have had a little moisture... maybe ill try again tomorow, but the last thing i need it to do is blow something... ive already spent 8 months getting the freaking thing to run properly

clayne

1. Solid differential mounts.
2. Pillow-ball rear trailing arms and toe-links.
3. New rear lower and upper arm pillow-***** (3 per side, 6 total), about 200$ cost total.

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

i dont know if you're familiar with the set of bushings that jimlab is making but would those play a part? what are the signs of worn F&R bushings? ive been thinking about getting a set of jims bushings

Beast From The East

Yup - I have Jim Labreck's nylon diff bushings, M2 links/arms, and new bushings all around (Mazdacomp - didn't like the clunking of Jim's bushings in the A-arms). Definitely helped, but does not completely eliminate wheelhop from a rev n' drop.

Beast

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

so did you replaced jims bushings w/ mazdaspeed? they clunk eh?

RX7SpiritR

iTrader: (1)

heim joints are a great thing!

moehler

iTrader: (12)

diff brace worked for me

felix_is_alive

pettit racing sels a launch kit for the fd , i havent installed mine yet but they claim it should help a bit

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

so new bushings are needed when then?

Beast From The East

Jim's A-arm front bushings clunked for my car - I got one of the first sets. I think there is too much variance in the diameter of the upper and lower bushing holes, and the rubber ones can take the slop while the nylon ones can't expand if the fit is a little off.

I still used the diff bushes.

Beast

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

so when exactly are new bushings needed then... i was assuming they would cure some of my wheel hop......

Beast From The East

You need to inspect the diff bushings, their like the motor mounts (stock ones are liquid filled). If you can't hold alignment or have slop in the suspension, then you need them. If you have 'clunks' when you slow down or accelerate, then you're pillow ***** are done.

There is no hard and fast rules - you replace them when there are shot, and there's no rule on how long they last.

Beast