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Old 11-25-02, 06:23 PM   #1
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Talking Holy Moly..my Y-Pipe Coupling is GONE...lol...

Welps..I've been reading up on what causes the "whooshing" sound and I just got finished taking apart all of my intake and intercooler hoses..

Holy crap... the Y-Pipe Coupling has a 2 inch split going right through it...

I'll take pics in a sec to show you guys...

LOL..I guess I'm gonna get that Efini Y-Pipe after all.

This is definetly the a part of the reason I've got hardly any boost right?

Take that plus a clogged pre-cat....
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Last edited by ArchangelX; 11-25-02 at 06:47 PM.
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Old 11-25-02, 06:49 PM   #2
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I have a stock y-pipe for cheap. PM me if you are interested.
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Old 11-25-02, 06:53 PM   #3
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No thanks..I'm just going to get the polished Efini Y-Pipe so that I can just get rid of that stupid rubber coupling.

Thanks for the offer though...

But as a quick fix, guys, do you think I could pick up some tube or coupling from Shucks or something to temporarily replace it till I get the new Y-pipe?
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Old 11-25-02, 06:58 PM   #4
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Here's the pics...excuse the crappiness of my digital cam...

Uh-oh...what's that?
Click the image to open in full size.

Uggg!!
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 11-25-02, 07:05 PM   #5
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What kind of boost problems are you having?
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Old 11-25-02, 07:06 PM   #6
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That looks like a job for...... DUCT TAPE!
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Old 11-25-02, 07:10 PM   #7
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Will Duct tape be able to hold all the pressure in? Is that a suitable sub?

Very low boost...the car really doesn't have alotta power going through it. Only about 8psi, I think is what the inspection reported. Both turbos are fine, I've had them checked out twice, and they're good.

I've had this super huge whooshing sound in the cabin, and I'm in the process of checking my intercooler hoses right now...this is the first one I've found...

My Pre-cat is also clogged, and I know that's a contributing factor to low boost...I've already got the HKS Downpipe in my living room..

I'm prepping the car for installation of it tomorrow by Soaking the bolts in PB Buster, so I figured I'd do a hose check while I'm at it.
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Old 11-25-02, 07:45 PM   #8
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duct tape ain't ognna work.
GLue ain't gonna work

just get new one from mazda. or go with Efiny pipe
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Old 11-25-02, 07:50 PM   #9
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HOLY COW!!!! That is a huge crack, there are more than one. That's one of your MAJOR reasons that you aren't getting boost.....dang, never seen a crack that big!
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Old 11-25-02, 08:44 PM   #10
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heh if only tape worked
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Old 11-25-02, 08:53 PM   #11
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Well..dammit..

I just went to three different stores...National, Schucks...even fuggin' Home DEPOT!!!

NO rubber hosing of that diameter!!! GAAAR!!!

So no temporary fix...at least nothing remotely streetable to fix the boost problem.
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Old 11-25-02, 09:13 PM   #12
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Stay off boost until you get that fixed, but otherwise its ok to drive around with the hole. If mcmaster doesn't have the right kind of silicone coupling, no one does. Baker Precision should also have it. I had the same problem and had the coupler replaced with a section of silicone hose and it hasn't had a problem since. Efini y-pipe would be nice too.
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Old 11-25-02, 09:46 PM   #13
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I suggest you pull out the old y-pipe before you start the downpipe install. Do the downpipe, then put in the new y-pipe.

The downpipe install will be much easier with the y-pipe out of the way.

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Old 11-26-02, 12:41 AM   #14
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OH MY GOD...Is this what an RX-7 is supposed to be like?

It's so DAMN FAST...

I fixed it. :headbang:

I just spent like 4 hours working on making a generic coupling, installing, and test-driving it...I did a ghetto using a ABD coupling from Home Depot (you know..plastic pipe coupling).

Click the image to open in full size.

I patched the original coupling using high adhesive black duct tape on the inside and the outside, making sure it was super tight with plenty of layers. Then I placed the Home Depot coupling around the original and placed 3 clamps around the top, middle, and bottom.

Install was a pain in the AZZ, because the coupling became about half an inch thicker and barely (I MEAN BARELY) fit into the same spot. I had to use vaseline to get it on the inlet to the dual turbos and into position.

Click the image to open in full size.

The fact that I fixed it wasn't a big deal..that was pretty simple and logical.

The fact that I just shot from 0-100 in the fastest I've ever went in my life is what has got me giddy. (I've never done a 13 sec 1/4)

The car is TOTALLY different now..who knew that one little rip like that could hurt a car so much.

I'm so happy...installing that downpipe tomorrow is just gonna fix the boost problem EVEN more...I can't fuggin' wait. And that coupling is going in the trash as soon as I get my Y-pipe.

I'm fuggin' shaking right now..the power is unbelievable....I launched the car at only about 3,000 rpms..and made sure to modulate the throttle to keep from spinning out....and powershifted to second.

I'm in fuggin' HEAVEN!!!

Last edited by ArchangelX; 11-26-02 at 12:44 AM.
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Old 11-26-02, 12:56 AM   #15
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Cool, but that's a pretty gheto fix.
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Old 11-26-02, 01:02 AM   #16
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Question



Er...yah..I think that's exactly why I called it ghetto.

It's not permanent..it's just until I get the Y-pipe in, which I'm ordering tomorrow morning.
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Old 11-26-02, 01:20 AM   #17
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Hey... just in case... don't drive it w/ duct tape on the inside of the pipe coupling incase it goes... so will something else...
Remember when you do the downpipe... 3 out of the 4 dowels come out easy... 1 won't (guessing that your replacing them because it makes life so much easier. try to get it off... I think it comes locktited from the factory. If all else fails you'll have to shorten the stud which is a bitch... good luck
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Old 11-26-02, 05:05 AM   #18
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You should be able to get a single 2 3/4" silicon hose coupling for $10 or something. That will solve all your problems. No need for new pipes etc for now. The hose you split is extremely common btw. I split the same one in 1993 or 1994 : ).

Kevin T. Wyum

P.s. like mentioned don't even think of driving anywhere with duct tape or adhesive of anykind on the inside of the tube. That's begging for a problem.
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Old 11-26-02, 08:24 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by ArchangelX
....I patched the original coupling using high adhesive black duct tape on the inside and the outside.....
Tape on the inside of the coupling doesn't sound like a good idea...it will come off and get sucked it and possibly cause more damage...
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Old 11-26-02, 10:25 AM   #20
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Actually..it's not on the INSIDE inside of the coupling...

It's on the lower portion of the coupling that fits over the pipe...I double-checked to make sure there wasn't any tape residue flipping over into the tube itself. It's just used to help give a little bit of solidity to the bottom edge where the clamp went.

I do have the HKS downpipe, and supposedly it's easy to install over the studs..I'm not replacing them if I don't have to (rebuild is near), but I do have extra studs in case.
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Old 11-26-02, 10:29 AM   #21
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I was thinking that several loops of hi-temp duct tape on the outside of the coupling only will do the trick until the y-pipe is shipped to your house. Good luck with the dp install.
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Old 11-26-02, 11:19 AM   #22
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You guys are making me nervous...

Maybe I should just leave the pre-cat on..heheheh...
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Old 11-26-02, 02:07 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by r0t0r-rooter
I was thinking that several loops of hi-temp duct tape on the outside of the coupling only will do the trick until the y-pipe is shipped to your house. Good luck with the dp install.
duct tape can do anything yo! it can hold the midpipe onto the exhaust for 10 miles before melting!
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Old 11-26-02, 03:32 PM   #24
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I'm not asking how you know that...
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Old 11-26-02, 03:52 PM   #25
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Mine looked just like that. What i did to get me by was, I swaped couplings from the intercooler , and used some super glue and electrical tape to fix the bad one with the 2 inch gash in it. yes it work, just like new!!!
A few days later i went bought me the real **** becuase it looked so damn getto.
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Old 11-26-02, 03:52 PM
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