Help diagnose my problem.... what happened?
05-26-07, 11:13 PM
#1
East Coast Garage
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Help diagnose my problem.... what happened?
Tonight I changed my oil (first oil change on new engine with about 1k-1.5k miles on it.) and went out to warm up the oil to check the level. As i was coming back I was in 3rd gear and only pushing about 5 psi when then car felt like it took a crap. I couldnt really tell but it seemed like there was a cloud of light smoke behind me since it was dark and the car ran like crap for the half of a mile home shaking. It sounds deeper and is only idling around 1,000rpm when idle is set for 1,400rpm. it also sounds like crap. here is a link to the youtube video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcCjTVM08o0
can you help me out here? I bought the car as a project and was just breaking in the new motor. whats wrong here?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcCjTVM08o0
can you help me out here? I bought the car as a project and was just breaking in the new motor. whats wrong here?
05-27-07, 08:03 AM
#5
Banzai Racing
There was something wrong making it idle at 1400, that is way to high unless it is bidgeported, but from the sounds of it and the mention of the "dealer", I doubt that it is. Check the hose going to the map sensor, it may have come off when you were removing your oil filter.
05-27-07, 08:53 AM
#6
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As far as boosting goes... i was/have not pushed the car. Like I said I only brought it up to 5psi to check oil pressure and everything in my logs on the microtech look fine. Where can I have a compression test done at? And what should a streetport motor be set to idle at in break in?
i am going to check the map sensor now....
thanks for all the help so far
i am going to check the map sensor now....
thanks for all the help so far
05-27-07, 09:11 AM
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
Dude, 2 questions first.
1. Did you put the "New" engine in yourself if not, how did you verify it was new?
2. With a single turbo like a T-67, did you (or the previous owner) use the same fuel/ignition map as the old engine?
Your idle should be 950-1050 (for SP motors).
If your map sensor is not disconnected, check your vacuum reading, is it 10 or lower? If it is, your "new" engine is most likely gone. Do a search for compression test, there are writeups on how to do this, you don't need to tow it to a dealer (and everyone on here will tell you to avoid the dealer like the plague). You just need to get a compression tester from any local auto parts store and a friend to crank the engine for you.
1. Did you put the "New" engine in yourself if not, how did you verify it was new?
2. With a single turbo like a T-67, did you (or the previous owner) use the same fuel/ignition map as the old engine?
Your idle should be 950-1050 (for SP motors).
If your map sensor is not disconnected, check your vacuum reading, is it 10 or lower? If it is, your "new" engine is most likely gone. Do a search for compression test, there are writeups on how to do this, you don't need to tow it to a dealer (and everyone on here will tell you to avoid the dealer like the plague). You just need to get a compression tester from any local auto parts store and a friend to crank the engine for you.
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05-27-07, 10:45 AM
#8
Banzai Racing
There is a compression test how-to on our website. I get virtually all our SP motors to idle smooth right around 780-800 RPM, my raceported engine idles silky smooth around 850 rpm.
05-27-07, 11:54 AM
#9
East Coast Garage
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The previous owner claimed it was a newly rebuilt engine from japtrix. Which the engine did seem to be new as it was the only thing in the engine bay at the time of the purchase. I had Fuego Racing hook everything up and he tuned the base map on the microtech lt10 for break in. I still havent been tuned as I was just working on breaking in the new motor. The map sensor is in place and the vacuum reading is between 8-10.
05-27-07, 03:00 PM
#10
still 1.3 liter v8 eater
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The previous owner claimed it was a newly rebuilt engine from japtrix. Which the engine did seem to be new as it was the only thing in the engine bay at the time of the purchase. I had Fuego Racing hook everything up and he tuned the base map on the microtech lt10 for break in. I still havent been tuned as I was just working on breaking in the new motor. The map sensor is in place and the vacuum reading is between 8-10.
05-27-07, 03:09 PM
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i didnt boost until 500 and some miles and since then i had only done it maybe 4-5 times. is there any possibility that i could have some how fouled out both plugs on one of the rotors? the car cranks up as easy as before but still only runs on one rotor.
05-27-07, 04:16 PM
#13
rotary sensei
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You have very low vacuum...Is the boost gauge fluctuating at idle? Get a compression test done.
Also boosting an engine with low miles won't cause it to grenade if it's build correctly. Think about new RX-7's off the show room floor, many were boosted with less than 10 miles on them and they didn't grenade.
Also boosting an engine with low miles won't cause it to grenade if it's build correctly. Think about new RX-7's off the show room floor, many were boosted with less than 10 miles on them and they didn't grenade.
05-27-07, 06:39 PM
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MAP sensor line seems to be intact and in place. If a small piece of sealant was to get into my intake, could that be the cause? I have a UIM with 2 spots for AUX injectors taht i was not using so Jose Fuego of Fuego Racing sealed it off but now it seems to be leaking air there so i am lead to believe that something broke off in there.
05-27-07, 07:09 PM
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What's your point ?
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You can get a feel for the compression just by removing the plug, (your looking for even pulses each rotor, if there's a pause and you only hear one you lost an apex seal.)if you have three pulses then you can go to the next step and put a gauge on it to see how strong they are.
05-27-07, 07:29 PM
#18
Will work for horsepower
Check the compression test facts in the search it tells you how to correctly do the test. Fuel / throttle /witch plugs to remove etc. And there is something wrong to cause motor to go bad, i broke mine in on the dino at 16 pounds and now run 20 and its still strong! Didnt someone make a post about Fuego's work before?
05-27-07, 09:05 PM
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still 1.3 liter v8 eater
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You can get a feel for the compression just by removing the plug, (your looking for even pulses each rotor, if there's a pause and you only hear one you lost an apex seal.)if you have three pulses then you can go to the next step and put a gauge on it to see how strong they are.
06-03-07, 02:36 AM
#21
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well just changed the plugs and the rear rotor was badly built up with carbon but after changing them, the problem is still there. I am going to check on compression tomorrow and go from there.
06-03-07, 01:39 PM
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The previous owner claimed it was a newly rebuilt engine from japtrix. Which the engine did seem to be new as it was the only thing in the engine bay at the time of the purchase. I had Fuego Racing hook everything up and he tuned the base map on the microtech lt10 for break in. I still havent been tuned as I was just working on breaking in the new motor. The map sensor is in place and the vacuum reading is between 8-10.
06-03-07, 02:23 PM
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The previous owner claimed it was a newly rebuilt engine from japtrix. Which the engine did seem to be new as it was the only thing in the engine bay at the time of the purchase. I had Fuego Racing hook everything up and he tuned the base map on the microtech lt10 for break in. I still havent been tuned as I was just working on breaking in the new motor. The map sensor is in place and the vacuum reading is between 8-10.
06-03-07, 10:26 PM
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the map looked safe enough to be boosting lightly.... it was running pretty rich under any boost at all. The engine was the same that came with the car. Jose is a good guy its just the work (wiring) he did for me was chinsey. The mechanical stuff he did was good though. plus... he's super cheap on price for the decent work he does. Im debating on whether to have him rebuild for me or rebuild myself or if anyone else has suggestions in the orlando area let me know. I am going to UF starting late August so I dont have A LOT of time but i have a couple months or else the car will sit till christmas break.
