gauge needle removal
#2
Racecar - Formula 2000
There are tools made to remove gauge needles. A quick google search on "gauge needle removal" turned up a few links...
Dave
Dave
#5
Racecar - Formula 2000
As I said above, do a google search.
For instance, Autometer sells gauge kits with replaceable faces which come with needle removal tools.
Ashcroft has a removal tool as part of a kit under this heading:
http://www.ashcroft.com/products.cfm?doc_id=330
I'm sure there are a lot more if you look.
Dave
For instance, Autometer sells gauge kits with replaceable faces which come with needle removal tools.
Ashcroft has a removal tool as part of a kit under this heading:
http://www.ashcroft.com/products.cfm?doc_id=330
I'm sure there are a lot more if you look.
Dave
#7
RX7FD3S
iTrader: (3)
i found this site that supposely carries just the tool made by NR.
although i can't find the "buy" button, its a e-commerce site. so maybe you can find it.
http://www.archcartpro.com/users/aut...E+REMOVAL+TOOL
although i can't find the "buy" button, its a e-commerce site. so maybe you can find it.
http://www.archcartpro.com/users/aut...E+REMOVAL+TOOL
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#8
Recovering Milkaholic
iTrader: (7)
The tools made to remove the needle don't work worth a damn in my opinion. I've found that a pair of needle nose pliers or a pair of flathead screwdrivers works best.
Suggestions on calibration.
1st. Make sure you top the tank of gas off so you know that the fuel needle should read "full".
2nd. Take note on where your temp and oil pressure guage needles sit at running idle.
3rd. Take note on the rpm gauge at idle.
4th. Take a short drive up the road and note the relationship between the Tach and the RPM guage. Most fd3s should read 3k@ 3rd gear is 50 mph.
Getting the tach and rpm to match back up is the tricky one but as long as you know where they should be in relationship to each other you will figure it out.
To remove the needles try to pop them straight up. Do not let them lean as you do this or you will break the stem. They are a little snug but once they pop loose they come right off. I suggest that you leave the white portion of the gauge assemble out of the case for test fit until you have the needles properly re-calibrated. Once you do have them right firm press them back down onto the gauge stem and then re-assemble the entire assembly.
Good luck.
Suggestions on calibration.
1st. Make sure you top the tank of gas off so you know that the fuel needle should read "full".
2nd. Take note on where your temp and oil pressure guage needles sit at running idle.
3rd. Take note on the rpm gauge at idle.
4th. Take a short drive up the road and note the relationship between the Tach and the RPM guage. Most fd3s should read 3k@ 3rd gear is 50 mph.
Getting the tach and rpm to match back up is the tricky one but as long as you know where they should be in relationship to each other you will figure it out.
To remove the needles try to pop them straight up. Do not let them lean as you do this or you will break the stem. They are a little snug but once they pop loose they come right off. I suggest that you leave the white portion of the gauge assemble out of the case for test fit until you have the needles properly re-calibrated. Once you do have them right firm press them back down onto the gauge stem and then re-assemble the entire assembly.
Good luck.
#9
thanks guys. youve been alot of help. im actually trying to remove all the needles to replace the factory face plates. ill try my best to keep the gauges accurate and not damage anything. ill see if i post up pics of the gauges when im finished. they should look identical to this but on an fd of coarse.....
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rgordon1979
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
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03-15-22 12:04 PM