Stevey629

I'm having trouble locating the FPD. I'm lost. I have taken the manifold off, but can't seem to see it. Do I need to remove vacuum lines? Coil packs? Solenoid Rack? I don't know how to even remove them either. where do I start? I have read up about it on the forums and only seem to find stuff related to testing for leaks, and not actually replacing the damn thing. HELP

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The FPD is attached to the primary fuel rail. You'll need to remove the coils, remove the ACV (if you still have one), loosen the solenoid rack so you can shift it back by removing the 3 bolts that hold it to the block, then I would just pull the fuel rails (both of them) and undo the fuel lines from the rack.

Once you have the fuel rails out, you can easily take the FPD off the primary fuel rail.

Stevey629

are the fuel rails closer to the LIM? or are they near the coil packs?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Remove the coils, then follow the fuel lines.

crxturboh22

check under my name crxturboh22 i replaced mine a while back.. there's a guide thru..
good luck

Stevey629

k coils are out. need to figure out how to get the solenoid rack off now. I see three large 12 mm bolts that seem to be a bracket that attaches the rack to the motor. then there are 3 philips on the top of the rack, and 3 in the back near the firewall. the fronts too muddled up with vacuum lines, its difficult to see if it mounts up there.

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

I made this post in the other thread

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/upcoming-work-needed-fuel-smell-595408/

Go there and read that front to back, he just finished his, and I just replaced mine yesterday.

Good luck!

Stevey629

ok, i got everything out finally and replaced the FPD. Unfortunately, I snapped one of those thin clear lines in the process which I believe is an oil return line. I broke it right next to the nipple. I ran a vacuum line to "repair" the line between the break, but its not on very well. Is this line under a lot of pressure? Or will it be ok? Do I need to go dig back in there and make sure its super secure? I couldn't get enough of the excess broken material off of the metal nipple so I am just praying that this will fix it.

Chadwick

iTrader: (12)

The line you described is the Oil metering line, you need to replace it. You don't want to risk an engine rebuild on a patch job.

Stevey629

I've seen this line fixed with a 1/8" viton or equivalent hose with clamps on either end. I don't have time to order and replace this line. Do these lines have fluid running through them? What exactly do they do?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Yes, they have oil running in them from the Oil Metering Pump. They inject oil into the rotor housings for seal lubrication.

Stevey629

ok, fixed that broken line. Ran a 1/8 inch vaccum line with clamps on either end of it and secured it. I am trying to get the rest of the parts back in, and have been free sailing until I noticed that when I pulled the UIM off, one of the electrical clips "came off" namely, the white electrical clip. Tthe two pinned wires came out of the back of the clip. I need a picture or wiring diagram for that clip so I know which way to put them back in. Also need to know where the 1st solenoid (orange clip in solenoid rack) vacuum line goes to. I forgot to number that one and can't find its home. It seems to come up to the manifold, but I don't know where it goes. Thanks for all the help so far, its been really useful hearing from you guys. I wouldn't have been able to do this without your help. I'm counting on this to fix the problem, so I am just praying that replacing the FPD will get rid of the smell, and get my car back on the road.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

For the vacuum lines:

http://www.davidgeesaman.com/rx7/93v...lor.edited.jpg

For the wiring diagram:

http://mahjik.homestead.com/files/ho...ng_Diagram.zip

papsmagu

iTrader: (19)

by no means am i trying to scare you but you should really get the right oil metering lines, whether they are Stainless steel lines or OEM. I had my last fd burn down becasue one of the OEM lines leaked and oil got all over the turbos, and that casued a big engine fire. please replace these lines before it happens to you.

Stevey629

will what I have done so far work though? It seems very very tight and secure fixing it this way. Do these lines get a tremendous amount of pressure or something? I don't think oil will eat through a thick rubber vacuum hose will it?

Stevey629

I know I'm a bit incompetent. But I can't seem to figure out the diagrams for the wiring. I can't locate this connector by looking at it. It'd be easier if I had a picture of this plug and just knew which color wire went on which side of the plug. Vacuum diagram is easy to read.

CantGoStraight

If it goes to a coil (solenoid) it won't matter which way you place it in the connector.

Stevey629

ok. thats easy I guess. In the vacuum diagram, the turquoise or teal lines are the ones I'm having a problem with (solenoid A, pressure regulator). I have one of the 2 lines hooked up properly, but can't seem to figure out where the diagram leads the other hose...it just goes under a few hoses then disappears. does it connect somewhere beneath the ACV?

Stevey629

just finished the FPD install, and primed the system. I can still smell some gas. Is this normal? Im assuming it isn't, and im scared to start the motor. Unfortunately, being the retard that I am, I reassembled the entire motor again, and now I can't see where the leak is coming from if there is one. Question is, what to replace now. I got a new rebuild about 30k ago, and I am thinking it couldn't be the injectors or fuel lines because they were replaced, and the FPD wasn't. Suggestions?

White94RX

well, if you just did it, it may take a day or two for the smell and spilled fuel to evaporate. especially if you haven't driven/run the car yet. but don't know for 100%

danny hahn

One way to check for leaks before you reinstalled the rail is to connect some extended fuel lines (about a foot) between the rail assembly and the fuel line connections near the firewall and turn the fuel pump on to test the rail for leaks.

did you test for leaks before puting the rats nest and UIM back?

Stevey629

I did not, and this is why I feel like a total moron for not doing that. I also only pulled the rail that has the dampener affixed to it, and left the other stuff alone.

danny hahn

Your experiencing the learning curve, but your still in the game!

When you go back to check, you'll have another opportunity to replace your oil lines.
Another golden opportunity! When was the last time the injectors were cleaned and mapped? I've had some with dripping spray patterns after 15k miles or about 1000 gals. RC engineering.

You can typically buy extra lengths (say 2ft, 3 or 4 maybe better) of fuel injector rated line at your discount auto parts store I think the nearest english equivalent is 3/8 id, but measure before you buy. there are some vendors noted on the forum that sell braided stainless lines rx7store, gotham. Take care not to let those steel lines rub against anything, it will wear whatever it rubs against. you may have to use extra fastners and ties to position the lines.