FD ignition, coil wiring help please
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FD ignition, coil wiring help please
I'm trying to wire a 13b-rew ignition system into my FC (along with a 13b-rew engine).
I have the following: Ignitor, Coil packs, coil wiring (early 93), condensor.
There was a recent thread about why coils go bad which came to the conclusion that its due to constant grounding, and yet my coil pack has the grounds right at the coil. Am I reading this wrong, is the ground at the coil switched somewhere and only used to kill the engine?
Please see the attached diagrams, one (the crude one) is what I am wrighting up to assist me in wiring in the FD ignition.
The other is the stock wiring diagram which covers this section.
I have the following: Ignitor, Coil packs, coil wiring (early 93), condensor.
There was a recent thread about why coils go bad which came to the conclusion that its due to constant grounding, and yet my coil pack has the grounds right at the coil. Am I reading this wrong, is the ground at the coil switched somewhere and only used to kill the engine?
Please see the attached diagrams, one (the crude one) is what I am wrighting up to assist me in wiring in the FD ignition.
The other is the stock wiring diagram which covers this section.
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Ok I relised that there is no way the grounds can work that way comming off the coils in the above picture unless they go to a resistor, or thats part of a kill switch function, and even then they would have to be independant of each other when that function was inactive.
so revised picture
so revised picture
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The tach output isn't part of the factory diagram. I believe the factory ecu normally drives the tach, but there is no reason not to drive it from one of the trail ign coils.
Thats basicly how you set up any aftermarket tach, depending on firiring mode it could connect to the lead coil but I think that would double the RPM shown on the tach in this case because of wasted spark.
Thats basicly how you set up any aftermarket tach, depending on firiring mode it could connect to the lead coil but I think that would double the RPM shown on the tach in this case because of wasted spark.
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Ok, opened up the service manuel pg z-28, looks like Black/red is power going into the coils...
L/W, R, and Y/L are all the ground wires that go to the ignition moduel, the moduel is the gate system that allows the coil packs to be ground at specific times. I was thinking about the wires that go into the moduel of the second gen.
Does this make sense?
Also the dotted line is shielded wire. The ground wires that go into the ignition moduel are shielded that means they have a wired strand outside the regular wire and those outer wires get grounded to the chassis at some point. I think that may have been confusing you.
L/W, R, and Y/L are all the ground wires that go to the ignition moduel, the moduel is the gate system that allows the coil packs to be ground at specific times. I was thinking about the wires that go into the moduel of the second gen.
Does this make sense?
Also the dotted line is shielded wire. The ground wires that go into the ignition moduel are shielded that means they have a wired strand outside the regular wire and those outer wires get grounded to the chassis at some point. I think that may have been confusing you.
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I think you want the tach on the L coil (at least that is where I pull from on the Haltech)
I also think you are thinking too hard...unless I don't understand you.
Power the coils and ignitor straight from a switched source...since you are going custom, why not B+ via a relay.
the ECU sends a GND signal to the ignitor which inturn fires a coil.
I also think you are thinking too hard...unless I don't understand you.
Power the coils and ignitor straight from a switched source...since you are going custom, why not B+ via a relay.
the ECU sends a GND signal to the ignitor which inturn fires a coil.
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....There was a recent thread about why coils go bad which came to the conclusion that its due to constant grounding, and yet my coil pack has the grounds right at the coil. Am I reading this wrong, is the ground at the coil switched somewhere and only used to kill the engine?....
There are no grounds on the coils, per se as shown on the factory diagram. The grounds shown are for shielding on some of the ignition harness wires.
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Thanks for the input, I'm curios why isnt the resistance wire shown in the factory diagram?
Also a resistor is not needed for an inductive ignition to function, or the resistor is allready built into many factory coils.
Care to do me a favor and measure the voltage of the primary wire before the condensor in comparison to the battery with the engine on, not running. This should give me an idea what size resistor is required
Also a resistor is not needed for an inductive ignition to function, or the resistor is allready built into many factory coils.
Care to do me a favor and measure the voltage of the primary wire before the condensor in comparison to the battery with the engine on, not running. This should give me an idea what size resistor is required
The conclusion that you cite above is wrong. Grounds have nothing to do with this. Note that portions of the factory harness contain resistance wire in it. This is necessary for an inductive discharge ignition to function properly. If you don't use it, then you need to put an external resistor in the coils' primary circuit or you will suffer the consequences of coil and ignitor melt down.
There are no grounds on the coils, per se as shown on the factory diagram. The grounds shown are for shielding on some of the ignition harness wires.
There are no grounds on the coils, per se as shown on the factory diagram. The grounds shown are for shielding on some of the ignition harness wires.
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Hey, didn't know about the resistance wiring. Makes me feel like my aftermarket ignition system was the best way to go! God, why do they have to complicate things so damn much! (Don’t answer that, not in the form of a question)
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Also a resistor is not needed for an inductive ignition to function, or the resistor is allready built into many factory coils.
Care to do me a favor and measure the voltage of the primary wire before the condensor in comparison to the battery with the engine on, not running. This should give me an idea what size resistor is required
Last edited by Speed of light; 05-11-07 at 12:17 PM. Reason: add attachment
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