Rotorious

iTrader: (7)

I am a self-proclaimed newbie FD owner, but I am rapidly learning from reading various brilliant posts. I have a question that is at least somewhat subjective in nature and has likely been discussed before, but I'd really like to get some fresh perspectives from some of you who have demonstrated a high degree of knowledge in your posts. I figure this post has a favorable chance of getting at least one educational response, and I have nothing to lose by trying.

My question is:

Given a completely stock, well-maintained FD with 30k-40k miles and in good running condition,

1) What amount of HP do you believe is the optimal blend of power and reliability?

2) What upgrades are necessary to reach your proposed amount of HP, and what order would they best be performed in?

3) What is the rationale behind your answers to the previous two questions?

I know this is probably alot to respond to, so huge thanks in advance to those who take the time to share their thoughts. Please, please try to explain your opinions as much as you are willing to. The more you say, the more open to debate you may be, and intelligent debates are often the best of teachers.

Thanks,

- Jim

telum01

1) 300 whp shouldn't be an issue. this is very subjective due to varying goals and perspectives of different people. i say 300 because you can do it rather easily and it's a decent amount of power.

2) downpipe, cat-back, intakes, intercooler, and ecu

3) downpipe and intercooler increase performance and reliability. intakes bring in more air. stock cat-back is very restrictive. ecu will safely allow you to run the mods you do.

some things you can do in any order. a cat-back, for example, won't have any ill-affects if done first. those things i listed about should be just fine in any order. but if you want to play it safe, get an ecu first (the A'PEXi Power FC is very popular and affective).

the first thing you should do, however, is look into the "reliability mods" if you haven't already. they can be found in the FAQs. there are a TON of modifications you can do, it all just depends on what you want out of your car, what you're willing to sacrifice, and how much you allot for your budget.

scrubolio

iTrader: (8)

1. this is based upon a various number of things which usually lead to one thing: $$$

2. this has been WELL documented on several threads, goto the 3rd gen faq

while not having been on the forum that long myself, i think its better to search/read than to ask highly subjective/open-ended topics...this forum has been around for awhile...lots of info to sift through. maybe once you've developed your own idea of where you want your car to be you can better "debate" with others and teach

you can start here: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/

Authentikdit

1)300-310
2)Reliablity mods first:Upgraded aluminum radiator and AST;Downpipe,Hi-Flo cat,catback exhaust,intakes,fuel system and ecu
3)Make sure you are careful with the kind of boost you are running if performing the full exhaust and intakes and then waiting a while to upgrade your fuel system and ecu.

My personal opinion would be to upgrade your mods slowly and experience them well before jumping from one to the next.

donz

iTrader: (2)

from what I read, reliability mods, then fuel/ECU for the base for modding the RX-7. The rest can be worked on, and you minimize the risk blowing the thing up. Atleast that's what the faq says... Ohh also have money in the bank for an emergency/rebuild/reman

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

These questions are just mental masturbation.

Buy an FD, do the reliability mods, and get it running properly.

This should take 3-6 months. By then you should have gained enough knowledge not to ask questions that are already covered in the FAQ.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

^^I agree completely.



In response to the original question: 270hp (assuming a downpipe adds 15hp), and don't add any more power until you've worn through one brand new set of tires (245/45R16 works well) or completed two years of autocross / track days / High Performance Driving Events, whichever takes longer.




There was a nice thread recently, where someone asked how to keep his car running at stock power levels for as long as possible. Here's a reprint of my advice to him, with a few edits:

1.) Proper Maintenance.
Replace all filters (oil, air, fuel) and fluids (oil, coolant, trans fluid, rear diff oil, brake fluid) immediately. Change the accessory belts, spark plugs, and spark plug wires also. This should be done with any used car, especially a used sportscar. However, since basic automotive maintenance isn't taught in school anymore, I feel obligated to mention it first. Download the Factory Workshop manual from this site, it should be one of the 'sticky' threads at the top of this section.


2.) Proper Driving Habits.
To me, this means installing coolant temp and boost pressure gauges, and treating the car like a vintage race car. Don't be afraid to use its power when it's safe to do so, but don't abuse it to the point of damaging the hardware. Don't boost until the car is warmed up (180F / 82C), or you'll have coolant seal issues. Don't shut the car off when it's too warm either (I like to see less than 210F 99C).


3.) Proper Cooling.
Install that downpipe (precat replacement), and I'd recommend an FC thermoswitch ASAP, before an upgraded radiator. See this thread for more info: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-archives-73/fc-thermoswitch-fd-447606/


4.) Proper Fuel Management.
If you experience boost creep after installing the downpipe (install a boost gauge before the downpipe!!!), you should install a boost controller to keep it at 10psi. As long as your fuel system is properly maintainted (fresh fuel filter every year or two), you shouldn't need to upgrade or retune your ECU unless you're trying to remove the main catalytic converter.






If you decide, after a few months, that 270hp isn't enough for you, there is a great thread titled "Reliability Mods , $1000 to spend" from a couple of years ago. It's linked from the FAQ thread.

-s-

n rider89

hmm.... hey guys i had a couple of questions also but i dont want to have to make a new thread.

1. how expensive is the ecu w/ all its parts installed? and is it fully compatable with the auto?

2. with these basic bolt-on type mods + streetported + and ecu tuned what hp should that be around?

3. how difficult is it to use the power fc? tune?


im not really looking for high hp gains just a little power to make it a little funner to drive. the street port was already done to it when i got it at its last rebuild. im just currently doing the reliability mods and seeing whats around the corner.

im definetly going to read up on that thread

wanklin

iTrader: (2)

n rider89

thread found reading now:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/i-have-%241-000-spend-339981/

n rider89

heheehehe i saw you post that up before in a nother thread.

i might just use that on rx8club

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

It depends, of course.

My recommendation is stock. It's a lot of power, and with reliability mods, it's the most reliable FD you'll get. My urgent recommendation is to start stock if you're not sure. Horsepower is like spending money on a **** - it doesn't pay off for very long - then people get like addicts always looking for the next power boost. I just stay out of that game.

Reliability mods only. See the references on that.

Because a stock FD will spank many cars on the road, and I don't find it very exciting to street race or dyno brag. I recently got to taking my car to autocrosses and the odd track day. That has taught me 2 things: it's a lot more fun and rewarding to drive hard and try to get better than to dump money into a car, and what you drive is much less important than how you are able to drive it. Now if I spend money it will be for cleaning up the abuse I inflict on the car and paying for the track days.

Dave

dubulup

I've give my input as well...since this is the exact goal I have for my current project; which I will be running an air pump and cat.
385rwhp +/- a few; which is about 455hp vs the stock 255hp.
reliability mods, better oil cooling, better IC, single turbo, stand alone ECU, tuning instrumentation, and any form of Aux. Inj.
Rationale behind my answer is sorta what dgeesaman just stated...driving the car is more important to me, than going for "big numbers"...not that 200hp over stock isn't big.

I plan to reach my goal using a stock reman block from Mazda with a 12k mi/12mo warranty. Reason being, when it comes back out...I order an off the shelf part (the short block) and swap it out in a weekend; and get back to driving/autox'ing/tracking

cooling is key, since I plan to raise the hp.

A single turbo has about 5 vacuum lines compared to the troubleshooting a seq system of over 70 lines. Single also presents a simple system with minimal air (charge and exhaust) restrictions. I have chosen a fairly small single. GT3574, its basically a GT35R coldside with a rotary friendly T4 (p-trim sized) turbine wheel and a .84 A/R turbine housing. Which gives pretty good spool up (small hot side) and nice top end, with the larger wheel (not offered in the GT35R package).

The stand alone ECU will give you full range of tuning and control of things like AUX Injection. This is where instrumentation is key...wide band O2, and EGT I feel are a must to get the potential out of the system as reliably as possible.

Aux injection is used to cool the intake charge as well as the combustion chamber, which will result in lower EGT's. This will allow for higher boost levels and aggressive timing in a safe manner.

My car will look and sound stock.

RX7LINK

iTrader: (3)

LEARN TO USE FORUMS. STICKIES ARE THERE FOR A REASON. SO IS THE FAQ