Terrh

iTrader: (7)

1993 touring. Newer motor. All stock underhood. idles nice@650-750rpm.

brand new universal cat. (had literally 2 miles on it at time of test) Airpump believed to be working, the cat didn't have anywhere to plumb the air pipe in so I routed it into the exhaust directly behind the cat (to hopefully dilute the exhaust some...... I figure it's output of polution is around 0PPM so it should help). Car sometimes smokes a bit at WOT and gives a puff of smoke on cold startup if it's been sitting a few days but otherwise runs like a champ. Plugs might be old - but I'm not sure. I think I have a brand new set of -9EQ's laying around I could throw in. I also have a new set of wires - but the car runs fantastic so I really don't think this is the issue.


I failed as follows:
ASM 2525 (40km/h/25mph roll)
.................LIMIT.............READING.......R ESULT
HC PPM.......64..................535..............FAI L
CO %........0.35...................4.47............FA IL
NO PPM......485...................21...............PA SS
DILUTION...........................15.8........... ..VALID
(test conducted in 3rd gear @~1600-1700RPM, I think it should've been done in 2nd?)


Curb Idle:
LIMIT READING RESULT
HC PPM.......200..................175................ .PASS
CO %.........1.00..................2.26.............. ...FAIL
DILUTION............................15.3.......... ......VALID

sevensix

iTrader: (1)

u need to drive the car more than 2 miles before you smog to warm everything up including the cat. other than that you may have other problems, but always smog the car warmed up.

dlarson101

I have been going through similar issues...

First of all these engines run rich and need a Three-way Catalyst to burn off the extra unburnt fuel.

You should also make sure your air pump is working properly, as far as turns on and off at the right times and that it has the correct pressure.

What is your O2 reading? if it is low than your ACV might be bad as well.

Besides checking these things you should give the car a good tune up prior to testing(Plugs, Wires, oil & filter, clean air filter and PCV.

You said the new CAT only had 2 miles on it? You need to make sure the CAT is HOT when testing. 2 miles barely warms up the engine let alone the CAT

If you have your stock CAT put it back on. If not and need a Hi-flow CAT I have a Bonez. It has less than 1k miles on it.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

I have a brand new cat allready :P I don't need a bonez but thanks.

I am considering finding a stock unit but I have no way to attach it to the rest of my exhaust so I think I'm hosed.


I have NO idea if the O2 is good or not, would that affect idle emmissions though?

where's the PCV located?

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

bump

chris7777777

Hey Terrh.........I just got mine done today also. Before spending too much money on it.........try just basic stuff.......like change the oil, plugs if you think you need em.............fill the car up with Sunoco 94 and then go for a good 20 minute rip down the highway. I didn't even do the oil this time and I was fine.

Like the other guys said......by those readings......the cat was not nearly hot enough.

You will always fail if you just drive straight right over to the test centre with a cold cat.

Good luck !

mecman

iTrader: (11)

Definitely heat up the car first. I would plumb the air line INTO the cat to provide O2 for the catalytic converter to "burn up" the unburned fuel. After changing your plugs and oil Dlarson mentions, I would run the tank down to 1/4 of a tank and add one gallon of denatured alcohol to the tank. Then retest.

7syawedis

iTrader: (1)

since its new it doesnt matter but the air should go in before the cat, part of the reason its in front is to make it last longer.

the alchohol thing, i never got that to really work to well. i failed the first time, put too much and car ran like crap 2nd time, 3rd time new cat and no alchohol i passed just fine.

if the air pump o2 pluds and everything is good theres no reason it shouldnt pass...changing oil can be good ive read sometimes that makes a difference. since we have oil actually going into the combustion chamber i think its way more important that its clean.

neit_jnf

iTrader: (17)

i can let you use the stock precat and cat (35k ish miles) that I have laying around in my garage for the etest, the stock setup is the best for emissions. (that is if you're in windsor canada which is close to me)

also drive a while before going to test to make sure the cats are proiperly warmed up.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

neit, you are my next option.. thank you for your offer!

GSLSE20B

spark plugs make a huge difference .. i dropped my hc 300 points just by changing to new plugs ... that air pipe needs to be in front of the cat ..its there to add oxygen to the cat ...increases the temp to burn off hc.. my car went from 1200 hc to 67 just from these little things

Daniel577h

get it really hot and then see, if not check pcv, your air filter and o2 it might be getting lazy

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

Bought new O2 sensor. Cleaned plugs (they looked fine though). Changed wires.

side note: OMFG, T1 wire is SUCH a ******* pain in the ***. It's easy on the FC's, why'd they go and screw it up? I'm never changing that goddamn wire ever again. EVER. Bring your FD to my house with $500, and I STILL won't change that wire.

Went there with the needle on E, driving 120-130km/h in 3rd gear. When I arrived the gas light was on and I put in about 3 liters of methyl hydrate. I also had him run the roll test in 2nd instead of 3rd.

car passed with FLYING colors.

readings:

ASM 2525:
HCPPM LIMIT 64 READING 13
CO% LIMIT 0.35 READING 0.00
NO PPM LIMIT 485 READING 119 PASS
RPM 2742

Curb Idle:

HC PPM limit 200 READING 19 PASS
CO % LIMIT 1.00 READING 0.05 PASS
RPM 850