Sr20fd3st

So i just got done putting this new motor in, gave it a start, and lots and lots of smoke...Thick billowy white smoke...oil pressure was fine, coolant temps were good. i was thinking it was runnign really really rich to the point that the smoke was white like what happens when an injecotr sticks open and just dumps fuel into the car...

my idle vac at 800 rpm is only 10 inHg, and i have a slight exhaust leak at the manifold/turbo which i cant see imagine would cause this.

I have tested:
injectors for sticking
purge control
mop
o2 sensor
tps
isc
tested for spark incase leading wasnt sparking enough or something

I'd also like to know...the trigger wheel for the crank position sensor can technically go on 2 ways..sorta...i mean itlines up with the pins on the pulley but u can position it with the thing stickout out the side facing either of 2 positions 180 degrees apart. there is nothing that would stop someone from installing it either of both ways so i assumed they both work...

im going to replace the plugs again...check coil for resistance ( i amusing an FC coil with an ignition box for leading) i also dont think swapping wires on the leading would make a difference since it just utilizes a waste spark system and both leading plugs get fired at the same time all the time...


some one please help! this is driving me crazy...after about 10 minutes of warm up i could drive it on the road and as long as i had my foot on the gas somewhat the smoking would pretty much be gone...
at idle its mediocre, giving gas at idle is like a whiteout for my neighborhood...letting off theg as while driving gets kinda bad, and then driving with the foot down somnewhat makes it go away. i still think bad ignition or runnign rich since perhaps when the motor is under load and the throttle is open this allows for excess or unburnt fuel to more easily be eliminated. could a foiled catalytic converter cause this?

any help please would be awesome, thanks in advance.

Oliver

Sr20fd3st

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=1#post6760371

this thread is similar to mine and current. i will be correlating between both to hopefully fix this. i did afterall have this rebuild done just so i could sell the car....

pincusa

iTrader: (1)

Unless you're seeing fluids on the ground, I wouldn't worry about it. There's lots of greases from handling all the engine parts, as well as paints and things that need to set. There's also all the oil inside the engine from assembly. My engine smoked for at least 3 hours before everything was burned off.
But just to be safe, make sure you have a first extinguisher!

BlueTII

Lets start with the basics:

Do you have all your vacuum lines routed correctly?
Did you install the rubber seals under the primary injectors?
Did you replace the turbos after sending apex seals through them?
Do you have the crank angle sensor plugs on correctly? White on top, grey on the bottom
Do you have your injector plugs on the correct injectors?

The crank trigger can only go on one way, if you have it on the wrong way you will not be able to get all 4 bolts in the pulley.

A certain amount of smoke is normal, there is a bunch of assembly lube that needs to burn off.

Sr20fd3st

i will make sure everything everything is connectd correctly today. i am replacing the coil and ignition harness, i have checked all electrical connections and sensors. engine revs up fine with slight break up on decel possibly from coil or something ignition related. i have chekced fuel pressure at idle and its ~30 and at engine off with fuel pump jumped its ~37. plugs smelled only very slightly of gas but looked brand new besides that. i will also double check the KAS to make sure i didnt swap em or something...although i cant imagine the motor even starting lol but ill check. after that i'll let it run for a while.

so no one thinks a cat with alot of **** in it could cause this? i might disconnect the cat and see if it helps any...if nothing else helps...

thanks

BlueTII

If the cat was full of coolant and oil, yes it would take some time to burn off. The cat is full of "honeycombs", so if it were saturated it would cause all kinds of problems.

Sr20fd3st

yea i love disecting cats.. lol..maybe just for ***** and giggles ill slice the bitch open and tkae my torch to the guts and just blow it all out ..yumm

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

is it blue or white smoke? i put my pcv in backwards... for awhile it didnt smoke at all then one day magically it started making HUGE smokeshows. its the valve that goes to the oil filler neck. i believe the black half is suppose to face toward the filler neck.
as for the startup smoke thats completely normal. the low vaccume could be the motor just breaking in. do you have any porting on the motor? who did you build?

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

My new engine smoked for 20 minutes - but of course I had to squirt some MMO in it because I flooded it earlier.

Good luck.

Sr20fd3st

Things changed today...The thick white smoked stopped and a slight blue smoke began...very slight. This didn't happen until i looked under the car and saw a very small puddle of smoke developing under the downpipe/cat flange since the gasket is blown out. within 5 seconds of me seeing the puddle..the white smoke stopped and it became blue smoke..so i have come to some conclusions:

A: That our universe is fucked up. The entire time it was thick white smoke reminiscent of coolant. I think this was happening because it was the strongest instinct in my mind since it almost traumatized me when it first happened to me on the old motor. I may have been so unconciously convinced that it was coolant that i saw white smoke come out the exhaust. Then the moment i realized it could be oil burning from the turbos, it turned blue and decreased..just like when turbos start to burn oil...so that would be why after it idles for a while and the oil builds up on the bottom of the exhaust ipe, and then i give it gas it all gets blown thru into the cat and burns and comes out the tailpipe tenfold.

B: Somehow the oil really was burning white because of the fact that it wasnt until it hit the hot cat that it was burned...for some reason unknown to me.

C: wtf
D: the acid form highschool fucked me up worse than i thought..

Idle at 850 rpm is still about 12 psi. i have located 3 vacuum leaks.
1: 2ndary injector grommet which i have extra of since it happened to me before.
2: UIM is cracked at the front most flange bolt area...again...this was a new uim and i dont know how this happened..maybe it occured as a way for the vacuum leak to become possible in my mind..
3: perhaps a leak from the uim gasket from the center bolt area. the center bolt is fine itself but it doesnt tighten..the threads in the LIM are stripped.

I dont know if these are enough to drop the vac to 12 but ill check em out. i had the idle up at about 1100 rpm and i sprayed carb cleaner at the flange crack and it almost died so it must be pretty significant..the injector grommet and center bolt gasket area responded very minorly.

Can i possibly? get a slightly larger bolt, maybe heat it up good to soften the aluminum..and just make it fit?

as for the crack in the uim i'll most likey take it to a local welding shop and have them just tig it together for me.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Get a Heli-Coil.

Sr20fd3st

**** forgot a few other things. Im stuck in limp mode suddenly...I was watching the motor run and i noticed sparks coming from the crank trigger area and saw the **** the mop harness was getting buzzed. a wire got cut but i fixed it and theres no code the the MOP, i got like code...25 i think..which is irrelevant...maybe it was 26 and i counted wrong
i dont understand why it wont go away after i fixed the wire..perhaps it shorted out something.. hopefully it didnt short out something the MOP. Is there a fuse for the mop that may have blown???

2 more things.. a wire by the coil area with blue/yellow wire and - - - - red stripes broke off at the connector..what is it?

and finally...i saw a connector under the green water temp sensor plug in the thermostat housing that didnt have a wire. i pulled it and the wire broke at the plug so i dont know what colors..what plug is this for?

Thanks,Oliver

Sr20fd3st

yea mayeb an insert..woudl u happen to know what thread size that bolt is?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

That's the Thermoswitch for the fans.

Not sure off the top of my head. I'm sure someone on here does, but I would recommend taking the bolt with you. That way you can match it up when you get there and get the right Heli-Coil.

Sr20fd3st

i dont get it though, my fans kick on like normal... any idea what color wire goes to it?

Sr20fd3st

Yay I have solved myself...

so i need to fix my vac leaks, get new turbos, and get out of limp mode.

big problem...the diagnostic wont work anymore wtf. i pulled the codes to be sure and i got code 25 which was new..but that wouldnt kick on limp mode i think.

i started the car with the jumper wire in the diagnostic port to disable the isc which i dont think is working anyway since nothing happens when i pull the wire out when its idling and when the fans kick on the idle dips by like 300rpm

so 2 minutes later i goto pull the codes again to be double srue and make sure i didnt mis any..and now it wont work at all...god damnit...why?


and i guess that plug just goes to fan relay number 3 but the wire sais it changes colors from b/r to L/g. anyone known wich of the 4 relays is number 3? the fsm just listed them as A and B body side and A and B engine side...