GOTBANNED?

I ordered some parts for my engine rebuild. BUt just wondering if anyone has a engine rebuild parts list I can compair to? I searced but nothing was very re-assuring. I would appreciate it, thanks

7_rocket

iTrader: (6)

housings.. seals.. your engine gone huh?

FC3S.USD

iTrader: (2)

Small list of stuff.

Apex Seals 6 N351-11-C00C
Apex Seal Spring - Inner 6 N326-11-C04A
Apex Seal Spring - Outer 6 N326-11-C06C
Corner Seals & Plug 12 N326-11-C20A
Corner Seal Springs 12 NF01-11-C24
Side Seals 12 N3Y1-11-C11
Side Seal Springs 12 NF01-11-C17
Oil Seals (Inner/Outer) 4 8871-23-180

O-Ring Seal (Inner) 4 0820-11-341
O-Ring Seal (Outer) 4 8341-11-343
Oil Seal Spring -
Front Inner 2 1011-11-351
Oil Seal Spring -
Front Outer 2 1011-11-353A
Oil Seal Spring -
Rear Inner 2 1011-11-361
Oil Seal Spring -
Rear Outer 2 1011-11-363A
Oil Seal - Front Cover 1 N3A1-10-507
Oil Seal - Rear Stationary Gear 1 1668-10-556A
Complete Gasket & O-Ring Kit 1 Kit 8DFE-10-271

GOTBANNED?

not gone but lossing compression i told ya. Thanks for tryina take a stab at me though jerk ***

but ya gonna do a rebuild this winter with large street port and no housings needed just doing a refresh. All the hard driving i was doing this summer has dropped the compression. PLus i think i blew an oil seal on a hard pull near the end of summer. saw a puf of black smoke..still starts and runs fyne but i can feel a difference in power.

GOTBANNED?

thanks alot.

It looks like i got everything

FC3S.USD

iTrader: (2)

Are you running a haltech ? and are you comparing it to winter driving ? .

I found that yes cold weather gives really nice air temps, But when its really cold ( Ontario COLD ) . the air compensation map really enriched everything to the point of going from 11.1-11.2 to almost 10.6 ( running only 6 psi ) .

And start up was a little harder ( when both coolant and air are at - C temperatures, so had to play with that , then everything went back to perfect ) .

So fixed a little the air compensation map and its good ( well havent really driven in the cold , but from the few times I took car out this winter ).

But I guess If you checked compression and its a bit lower compared to before then, ya refreshining it up is always good.

GOTBANNED?

Yes I am running Haltech E8 and no way am i compairing it to winter driver! driving my fd in winter! no way in hell! Before i put it away fro storage i had a Mazda compression tester and checked compression and it was getting low. So it's time for a rebuild before motor goes boom and takes out a housing since my housings are new. Engine in right now is a Mazda re-man.

ohh and sell me that PLX wideband!

katit

iTrader: (1)

Just curious, how much all those parts cost?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

A complete rebuild from Ray at Malloy is about $1090. This includes all four rotor and stat gear bearings, front cover gasket, rear main seal, front cover seal, and all apex/side/corner seals and springs. Also includes the oil control rings and springs, dowel pin o-rings, inner and outer coolant o-rings. It does not include the oil pan gasket and metal oil control rings, I don't use them on a typical build.

For the original poster, make sure you have the proper quantities of everything, and that you have 2 of each oil control rings---inner and outer, front and back. Also make sure you have the small double o-ring (black inside white) that inserts into the front iron next to the oil pump under the front cover. I have had problems with stuff missing or being mixed up, so make sure you double check everything before it's time to build the motor!

Edit: Ray has the complete kit on sale right now (less the bearings) for $920:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...7&page=1&pp=15

GOTBANNED?

well I would buy from Ray but im a mazda tech well final year apprentice and just wanted to make sure i got everything.

Ray does give out great prices and i have been tempted to buy off of him cuz of houw stupid some parts guys are here but i work throught it with them. It worth it for the amount of discount i get!