Diff Bushing Install
#1
Diff Bushing Install
I took some pics to help others that are working on their diff bushing installs. Fairly easy install. You need a couple of 17mm wrenches to get everything loose. I used a jack stand to support the pic while I worked the diff mount out. The most difficult part was getting the bushings in straight so they don't squish out to the side. Anyway heres the pics.
#5
Senior Member
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I am getting ready to press in the same bushings and had a couple questions.
1. Can the stock diff bushings be pushed out from either side?
2. There is a lip on both sides of the bushing. I'm guessing that you should press it in with the thinner lip as the leading point, but it seems weird to press something in with a lip protruding out like these bushings. Can someone clarify this?
Thanks,
Kevin
1. Can the stock diff bushings be pushed out from either side?
2. There is a lip on both sides of the bushing. I'm guessing that you should press it in with the thinner lip as the leading point, but it seems weird to press something in with a lip protruding out like these bushings. Can someone clarify this?
Thanks,
Kevin
#7
If I remember right they could be pressed out from either side but doing it from the opposite way than I showed will mean you won't have an inline force on the bushing which will just make it harder to press out.. Yes you are pressing that lip into the diff housing, I remember when I did my tie rods on the 240sx those aftermarket bushings were the same way. It does make it much tougher to press in. As any side load at all cause the bushing to pop out.
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#8
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I finished installing these bushings today, and WOW. I used to get a clunk when I shifted hard or shifted into reverse, etc. Now the clunk is gone, and it feels so solid. The cabin noise is a bit louder too, which I like as well. Great product. Feels so good to get 113K mile diff bushings out of there and replaced with new ones.
Kevin
Kevin
#10
Senior Member
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I actually had a hard time pressing the old ones OUT. They were in there very tight and I had to make a fixture for the press. I probably won't need it anymore, and it's not very exotic, but let me know if you need it.
Putting it back in wasn't too bad. Not fun, but it was not unreasonable. You don't have to remove anything else to take the diff mount off and put it back on. You just have to have a floor jack and jack up the diff/let it down as needed to line up the holes in the bushing.
Kevin
Putting it back in wasn't too bad. Not fun, but it was not unreasonable. You don't have to remove anything else to take the diff mount off and put it back on. You just have to have a floor jack and jack up the diff/let it down as needed to line up the holes in the bushing.
Kevin
#13
Call me gramps!
I actually had a hard time pressing the old ones OUT. They were in there very tight and I had to make a fixture for the press. I probably won't need it anymore, and it's not very exotic, but let me know if you need it.
Putting it back in wasn't too bad. Not fun, but it was not unreasonable. You don't have to remove anything else to take the diff mount off and put it back on. You just have to have a floor jack and jack up the diff/let it down as needed to line up the holes in the bushing.
Kevin
Putting it back in wasn't too bad. Not fun, but it was not unreasonable. You don't have to remove anything else to take the diff mount off and put it back on. You just have to have a floor jack and jack up the diff/let it down as needed to line up the holes in the bushing.
Kevin
What I was thinking is that since the stock bushing is fluid filled, there would be a lot of flexing of the walls of the bushing, thus requiring something with more force. Is the tool that you fabricated somewhat like a washer?
#14
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^ IMO, having a press w/ the right press accessories to do these diff bushings is the safest method. Hell, I had a hard time making them give way with a 20-ton press, lots of PB Blaster and my bushings have only seen 50k miles. Because the outer wall of the bushing you're pressing on is steel, you do not have to worry about the flex in these bushings. However, because the composition of both the diff arm and the bushing race is steel there is a big chance that rust has accumulated between the contact surfaces over the years which will require a lot more force to seperate than just a bushing c-clamp tool.
#16
Call me gramps!
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#21
Goodfalla Engine Complete
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a 100$ 20 ton press will work for you. I have used mine for my transmission rebuild and a TON fo other things. Heck, I even make excuses to use it when it is (slightly) overkill just to make sure I am getting my hundred bucks worth.
Just be safe and dont create any high speed projectiles while using a press.
Just be safe and dont create any high speed projectiles while using a press.
#22
Call me gramps!
#24
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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I am currently doing all my bushings with the Power Flex kit. I figured I would add that you don't need a shop press to put any of the new bushings back in. A decent sized vice works fine, and is easier to keep the bushing from popping out. Get a flat head screwdriver and press on the bulging side. They will slide right in.
I realize this is an old thread. But like most topics, all info is helpful
I realize this is an old thread. But like most topics, all info is helpful
#25
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i was talking to my friend who is better with fd's than me about this and he was wondering how you get the mount out without dropping the whole rear suspension...he's never been able to get to the bolts on top without doing so....