3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
Sponsored by:

Coolant & Vacuum Plugs......

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-25-14, 02:46 PM
  #1  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
 
KehoeAutomotive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 505
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Coolant & Vacuum Plugs......

So I'm doing a single turbo conversion for a buddy and one thing I have a lot of are holes to plug!

I have 3/8 coolant lines to plug and a bunch of little vacuum lines to plug.

All I've been able to find are those crappy rubber plugs that NAPA sells that tend to dry rot and break quickly.

Any suggestions on where to get quality rubber or silicone vacuum & coolant plugs?

Do you use wire to hold them in place? Zip Ties?

I'm having so much fun doing this conversion! I enjoy the challenges of the welding and fabricating. And screwing up someone elses car in a lot more fun too!
Old 07-27-14, 01:39 PM
  #2  
Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
 
IRPerformance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 11,347
Received 318 Likes on 190 Posts
I never cap off coolant lines. They will eventually fail. On single turbo conversions or other setups where coolant lines are removed I weld them up so there is no chance of failure. I can't tell you how many cars I've had come in that had coolant ports plugged with crappy vacuum caps or just the lines looped. They always leak after time, especially near the turbo area. For the rear iron nipple I pinch it shut and weld a bead across the top of the nipple. Otherwise remove the nipple entirely and tap for an npt plug. Don't weld on the actual iron. For the stock turbo coolant lines and throttle body coolant return on the waterpump housing I remove the nipples and weld them. Its aluminum so you will need a TIG wilder. You could also remove the nipples and and tap for an npt plug here too. Jut make sure to use a quality thread sealant.

For vacuum nipples I use heat resistant silicone vacuum caps from McMaster-Carr.
Old 07-27-14, 03:06 PM
  #3  
3rd Gen. Parts Lurker
iTrader: (9)
 
Slow2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
JB weld haha
Old 07-27-14, 03:18 PM
  #4  
Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
 
IRPerformance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 11,347
Received 318 Likes on 190 Posts
JB Weld will fail eventually
Old 07-28-14, 11:47 AM
  #5  
Rotary Enthusiast

iTrader: (10)
 
04G35S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 1,053
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Do it right the first time and ether drill/tap each port and plug it or weld it shut. I just pulled my car all apart and did this for piece of mind. The gaskets are expensive so why pay to do it twice?!
If your going to drill and tap them like I did, you will have to pull the upper and lower intake off.
Old 07-28-14, 01:11 PM
  #6  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
 
KehoeAutomotive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 505
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Red face

Originally Posted by IRPerformance
I never cap off coolant lines. They will eventually fail. On single turbo conversions or other setups where coolant lines are removed I weld them up so there is no chance of failure. I can't tell you how many cars I've had come in that had coolant ports plugged with crappy vacuum caps or just the lines looped. They always leak after time, especially near the turbo area. For the rear iron nipple I pinch it shut and weld a bead across the top of the nipple. Otherwise remove the nipple entirely and tap for an npt plug. Don't weld on the actual iron. For the stock turbo coolant lines and throttle body coolant return on the waterpump housing I remove the nipples and weld them. Its aluminum so you will need a TIG wilder. You could also remove the nipples and and tap for an npt plug here too. Jut make sure to use a quality thread sealant.

For vacuum nipples I use heat resistant silicone vacuum caps from McMaster-Carr.
What a great idea!!!!! Thanks so much. Will do that! Such an easy solution to tap and drill, should have seen it.
Old 07-28-14, 08:51 PM
  #7  
RX-7 Bad Ass

iTrader: (55)
 
DaleClark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 15,399
Received 2,437 Likes on 1,508 Posts
If you drill and tap, I would put some teflon tape or thread sealer on the plug to make totally sure it doesn't leak. It should be a permanent fix that you won't be coming back to down the road.

For vacuum caps, I've been using EPDM rubber caps from McMaster-Carr. Fit great, they're black, and they can take the heat.

Dale
Old 07-28-14, 09:19 PM
  #8  
Mazzei Formula

iTrader: (6)
 
Monsterbox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Birmingham, Al
Posts: 3,020
Received 143 Likes on 69 Posts
http://store.034motorsport.com/silicone-high-pressure-nipple-block-off-cap-3-8-inch-inside-diameter.html

Obviosuly welding is best. But, You don't have to weld the coolant holes. These caps are rated 600f, 3mm thick, good for boost, oil, and coolant. Silicon won't crack on you like all the other typical caps.

I'm using them on my water pump housing with a single mini non-worm gear compression fuel hose clamp.
Old 07-29-14, 07:13 AM
  #9  
Rotary Enthusiast

 
Gilgamesh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: hsv al
Posts: 845
Received 14 Likes on 12 Posts
Originally Posted by DaleClark
If you drill and tap, I would put some teflon tape or thread sealer on the plug to make totally sure it doesn't leak. It should be a permanent fix that you won't be coming back to down the road.

For vacuum caps, I've been using EPDM rubber caps from McMaster-Carr. Fit great, they're black, and they can take the heat.

Dale
I guess i got the wrong EPDM caps from McMaster, mine are long and really flimsy, maybe i got silicone instead....

anyways my ghetto fix was some scrap pieces of bad *** Gates silicone blue/red heater hose and a bolt turned on the lathe to fit snug.
Old 07-29-14, 01:34 PM
  #10  
Moderator

iTrader: (3)
 
j9fd3s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,780
Received 2,564 Likes on 1,824 Posts
Originally Posted by Monsterbox
http://store.034motorsport.com/silicone-high-pressure-nipple-block-off-cap-3-8-inch-inside-diameter.html

Obviosuly welding is best. But, You don't have to weld the coolant holes. These caps are rated 600f, 3mm thick, good for boost, oil, and coolant. Silicon won't crack on you like all the other typical caps.

I'm using them on my water pump housing with a single mini non-worm gear compression fuel hose clamp.
thanks for that link! i've been looking for something to cap off the AWS for a while
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JoesFC
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
9
10-05-15 08:10 AM
localized
New Member RX-7 Technical
3
09-16-15 12:18 AM
ZaqAtaq
New Member RX-7 Technical
2
09-05-15 08:57 PM
Frisky Arab
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
5
09-04-15 06:17 PM



Quick Reply: Coolant & Vacuum Plugs......



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:24 PM.