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Coolant Help part 2

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Old 02-15-04, 11:33 AM
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Question Coolant Help part 2

Ok, well I purchased a funnel to fit in the top of the filler neck so I can test for Champagne Bubbles in the coolant. I topped off the filler neck, put the Funnel in and started her up, Always fires right off on the first try with no hesitation.

No bubbles from coolant, but after a few seconds light white smoke starts coming out of the exhaust... It’s not thick and it goes away quickly and only lasts for under a minute.

So I let it warm all of the way up, the funnel fills about 1/2 way up w/coolant, once the thermostat opens the inevitable happens Champagne Bubbles start to flow, there are no big bubbles at all but there are very small bubbles hard to notice but they are there, every once and a while a little bigger size one comes up (not huge but big enough to tell the difference)

So I turned off the car and the coolant starts to gurgle a bit and it pulses in the funnel it like fills up on a gurgle then drains down some, after every gurgle a bunch of Champagne Bubbles come up too. This lasted about 5-10 mins until the funnel wasn’t full anymore and the filler neck was just topped off.

I need opinions on what to do.... My car is my daily driver and I cannot afford a rebuild right now. It will probably be about 5-6 months. (I'm a college student and I have to pay for rent, car payment, college, insurance... Just about everything) what should I do? I have considered the Block Weld but I do not want to clog my turbos etc... I have a Fluidine radiator waiting to go in, so clogging the stock radiator is no problem but I do not want to clog the turbos and everything else.

The worst part is there is only 13k miles on this reman!
Can someone lend a hand with some advice?

Mitch

P.S. Sorry so long
Old 02-15-04, 05:13 PM
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It sounds like the o-ring on in between the compresion housing and the cast section, probably on the rear rotor near the spark plugs. there is no real fix for this without rebuilding the engine. this was more than likely caused by either an overheat or when the engine was installed there was an air poket in the cooling sys. Good Luck!!
Old 02-15-04, 06:06 PM
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Re: Coolant Help part 2

Originally posted by Mitch529
Ok, well I purchased a funnel to fit in the top of the filler neck so I can test for Champagne Bubbles in the coolant. I topped off the filler neck, put the Funnel in and started her up, Always fires right off on the first try with no hesitation.

No bubbles from coolant, but after a few seconds light white smoke starts coming out of the exhaust... It’s not thick and it goes away quickly and only lasts for under a minute.

So I let it warm all of the way up, the funnel fills about 1/2 way up w/coolant, once the thermostat opens the inevitable happens Champagne Bubbles start to flow, there are no big bubbles at all but there are very small bubbles hard to notice but they are there, every once and a while a little bigger size one comes up (not huge but big enough to tell the difference)

So I turned off the car and the coolant starts to gurgle a bit and it pulses in the funnel it like fills up on a gurgle then drains down some, after every gurgle a bunch of Champagne Bubbles come up too. This lasted about 5-10 mins until the funnel wasn’t full anymore and the filler neck was just topped off.

I need opinions on what to do.... My car is my daily driver and I cannot afford a rebuild right now. It will probably be about 5-6 months. (I'm a college student and I have to pay for rent, car payment, college, insurance... Just about everything) what should I do? I have considered the Block Weld but I do not want to clog my turbos etc... I have a Fluidine radiator waiting to go in, so clogging the stock radiator is no problem but I do not want to clog the turbos and everything else.

The worst part is there is only 13k miles on this reman!
Can someone lend a hand with some advice?

Mitch

P.S. Sorry so long
If it fires right up, why would you think you have a problem? Engine's that have been overheated and have busted a water jacket seal normally are hard to start.
Old 02-15-04, 10:06 PM
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Not always hard to start. Ask me how I know!

Mitch, how much coolant is the engine eating per mile driven? I drove for 4 months with blown o-ring. Always started up, ran well, didn't overheat once I did the fan mod and linearized the temp gauge so I could monitor it, even sitting in traffic. If you really need to limp along, first pull most of the coolant out of the overflow tank so you aren't peeing coolant everywhere when you shut off the engine. Monitor the overflow tank level every couple days, pull more out when you need to. Gas siphons from the local parts store work fine for this.

Next, get a 1 or 2 liter bottle, and fill it with 70% water, 30% coolant. Put it in the bin behind you. It's a pain, but plan your trips so the car has roughly an hour to cool down, 45 minutes AT THE LEAST. Every time you go out and get ready to drive, pop the hood, fill the filler neck, and off you go.

The only REAL pain about this is if you need to go for trips longer than it takes to displace the coolant from the system such that it stops cooling properly. Generally, you can use the low coolant buzzer to judge this. If the buzzer goes off after ten miles, well, that's your range! But if it's like mine was, which was a small leak, then you can go a couple DAYS before the buzzer goes off. In that case, you will be just fine limping your *** around this way for quite a while

Word to the wise, stay out of the boost! Coolant in the combustion chamber has a way of forming carbon deposits that can cause pre-ignition. I know the water steams the rotor housing clean, I'm talking about the chalky white dust that forms from the ethylene glycol being burnt. Anyway, that's my $0.02. I drove the better part of 1500 miles before the weather got good enough to do the repop. Don't do the blockweld. Not only do the turbos get clogged, so too does the heater core, and that is a MAJOR pain in the *** to get out and clean/replace.

Good luck!
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