duder

My son has an FD and has a problem where the clutch pedal drops to the floor and stays there.

So I changed out the Slave and didn't do any good. Then I noticed a leak in a rubber line between the slave and master cylinders.. Then I replaced that line and still wouldn't work. I just replaced the master cylinder and pumped a load of fluid through it trying to bleed it and still nothing. The pedal still drops to the floor.

So I think I am about out of parts to change. Any ideas? I really need help on this.

Thanks! duder

FourtyOunce

iTrader: (15)

It could be a broken clutch fork or perhaps the the snap ring on the pressure plate which connects to the throwout bearing has gone bad. Get under the car and open the inspection plate on the lower part of the bell housing.

duder

OK, I seem to remember a plate near the slave cylinder with two bolts.

I did notice one libe that split off and goes to the other side of the car to a lagre box. It seems to have break lines going to it. Not sure why one from the clutch would go over there.

duder

cr-rex

iTrader: (114)

I agree with 40oz. When that lock ring goes bad, you'll get exactly what you now. I've been through this exact situation. I bled my slave for-ev-er. Almost ran a whole bottle of fluid through it before it dawned on me to look inside the inspection plate and see the actuation. I watched the throw out disengage all on its on. I pulled the clutch, replaced the ring and that thing the ring goes on and problem solved. If this is in fact your problem then I suggest a new throw out bearing along with the ring and collar. The transmission has to come off and the clutch has to be removed. It wouldn't hurt to replace that as well.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

The clutch system design is very difficult to remove all air from it.
That is due to the location of the slave drain valve at the rear back instead of on top at the rear.
Replace the stock valve with a Speed Bleeder valve.

BASIC Procdure:
Pull the slave, point the plunger end down so the stock bleeder is pointing upwards, loosen the bleeder, wait for all air to exit the salve; reverse procedures and install.
Even so if any air remains in the slave, it will stick at the bottom. Pull it out and keep on pumping. You might need to still bleed some more.

You could also do the normal procedures with the rear of the car jacked up about 18" higher than the front.

pyro_racer_0016

If it is the wedge collar that failed get one piece wedge collar in the link from ACT. I love mine and don't have to worry about failures or it coming apart.

ACT Releases New One-Piece Wedge Collar for Pull-Type Clutches / ACT News // Advanced Clutch Technology

cr-rex

iTrader: (114)

that is the coolest thing. not only is it cheaper than the oem parts, its better. i feel like everyone should know about this. i wish i knew about it lol

SnailBums

iTrader: (15)

You may have already done this but remove the inspection plate and verify that the tip of the slave rodis in contact with the fork also. I had a customer that mis-aligned the slave and when the first hit the clutch pedal to bleed it pulled the rod out and they had no pedal. Eventually after bleeding the system so much, you will have fluid pouring out of the bottom on the transmission.

Mike

RTC45

iTrader: (1)

I just went through the same drill last week. Replaced the clutch master and slave cylinder. The rod on the slave cylinder was not engaged in the clutch fork. Recommend you double check the rod. Good luck.