Car wont start :(
#1
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Car wont start :(
Well its been about two months since i have "personally" started my rx7. Ive been away at college and my father was supposed to be starting it every two weeks.. of course that bastard didnt so i goto start it today and it just cranks and cranks. I even tried swapping back to the stock ecu (from haltech) and still nothing. The only think i can think is that the plugs need cleaning so im gonna try that when i can get some tools to the car.
Anyone else have any ideas as to why it wouldent start or am i pretty dead on with cleaning the plugs? the reason im asking for input is that its an hour drive each way to the car and ive already done it 2 times without being able to start the car.
Anyone else have any ideas as to why it wouldent start or am i pretty dead on with cleaning the plugs? the reason im asking for input is that its an hour drive each way to the car and ive already done it 2 times without being able to start the car.
#4
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Originally posted by BLKTOPTRVL
Maybe that BASTARD didn't fill the gas tank.
Maybe that BASTARD didn't fill the gas tank.
as for the ecu part... the haltech dosent like to cold start, in fact it sucks at it... so i tried the stocker in hopes that it would. Also the battery was dead, but i charged it. I have no problem getting the engine to crank over.
#5
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Start at the basics.
Check the plugs.
Is flooded?
If it is cranking and cranking, then would assume so. If not, make sure you are getting fuel into the engine. Try priming it a few times, etc.
Check the plugs.
Is flooded?
If it is cranking and cranking, then would assume so. If not, make sure you are getting fuel into the engine. Try priming it a few times, etc.
#7
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Originally posted by Red-Rx7
Start at the basics.
Check the plugs.
Is flooded?
If it is cranking and cranking, then would assume so. If not, make sure you are getting fuel into the engine. Try priming it a few times, etc.
Start at the basics.
Check the plugs.
Is flooded?
If it is cranking and cranking, then would assume so. If not, make sure you are getting fuel into the engine. Try priming it a few times, etc.
Make sure you have fuel, spark, and compression.
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#10
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
Originally posted by saxyman990
How exactly do you switch back to the stock ECU from a Haltech? E6K uses a completely different wiring harness. They are not interchangable....
Rob
How exactly do you switch back to the stock ECU from a Haltech? E6K uses a completely different wiring harness. They are not interchangable....
Rob
#12
Rotary Freak
Originally posted by EVLFD
what a bastard!
what a bastard!
#13
Tony Stewart Killer.
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either your battery is drained or the seals in you motor have lost a little compression from sitting. If it sounds like you are getting a lot of power to the starter to get the motor going then its most likely that. pour ~4 tablespoons of auto trans fluid into each runner of the LIM then star it I bet you a million it starts if your battery is alive.
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Originally posted by Kento
Um, yeah, I was kinda wondering that myself.....
Um, yeah, I was kinda wondering that myself.....
Im going to clean the plugs tomorrow when i go try again. The battery is definitly not the problem, and the moter only has 15k on it. and yes, how dare he not start my car... that bastard (i wouldnet care if he hadent just as long as he hadent said he would, cause i would have made other arrangements)
#16
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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crank but doesn`t start
a little advise...if you are running a haltech, haltech has a feature that it must see a least 12.5 volts before starting. with the fuel pump running and the ignition on the on mode you are probably have about 9-11 volts...after cranking you will probably foul out the plugs.
try pulling out the fuse for the fuel pump and then crank to burn of the excess fuel in the housing chamber...when the rotation sounds like it has increased RPM (faster), install back the fuse and then crank, good luck...
this was a on going problem for me so i installed a switch between ignition and the pump.
good luck
Andre
try pulling out the fuse for the fuel pump and then crank to burn of the excess fuel in the housing chamber...when the rotation sounds like it has increased RPM (faster), install back the fuse and then crank, good luck...
this was a on going problem for me so i installed a switch between ignition and the pump.
good luck
Andre
#18
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Originally posted by XSTransAm
mmmm the beauty of a plug and play harness, availble from marco at magnus
mmmm the beauty of a plug and play harness, availble from marco at magnus
Not sure if that is your problem, but Andre is definately right. Haltech seems to have some issues with a car that sits for a while too, due to a small drop in voltage. Car may be flooded now.
Good luck getting the car running again.
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I went up to the car today with all the diagnostic tools i needed.. changed plugs ect.. I used a timing light to check all my wires and the trailing coil on the rear roter isnt firing while cranking. Do you think this is whats causing my car to not start? I tried to pull off the coil but its attached to the rats nest, and i fear that more than anything after doing the hose job.
Anyone got any input on how to get that coil off without pulling the nest? And should i assume this is whats making the car not start?
Anyone got any input on how to get that coil off without pulling the nest? And should i assume this is whats making the car not start?
#20
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you don't need to pull the rats nest off to get any of the coils off. They mount directly to the coil rack. You can take any of the coils off individually, or you can take the whole assembly off. They are indepentant of the rats nest.
It's possible that's your problem, but I doubt it. The car should be able to start and run without either of the traling coils.
It's possible that's your problem, but I doubt it. The car should be able to start and run without either of the traling coils.
#21
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Originally posted by saxyman990
It's possible that's your problem, but I doubt it. The car should be able to start and run without either of the traling coils.
It's possible that's your problem, but I doubt it. The car should be able to start and run without either of the traling coils.
and as for taking out the rats nest, the coils are individually bolted into the metal frame but the one im talking about specifically is bolted to the side of it, and the bottem two nuts are behind the hard fuel lines
#22
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The entire coil rack can be taken out without difficulty. There are (4) 10mm nuts holding it on. Take those off and all three coils come off. Then just remove the one trailing coil. Pretty simple, it'll only take you 5 minutes (once you get the UIM and throttle body off).
Good luck,
Rob
Good luck,
Rob
#23
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Thanks rob, I couldnet remember if the coil tray was seperate from the nest.
One last question.. I premix my gas, is it possible that since the car hasent been moved in two months that the oil settled out of the gasolene and im injecting pretty much pure oil into my engine and thats why it wont start?
One last question.. I premix my gas, is it possible that since the car hasent been moved in two months that the oil settled out of the gasolene and im injecting pretty much pure oil into my engine and thats why it wont start?
#25
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hmm... interesting thought. I highly doubt it. I've never heard of that happening. But just in case: you could try a little starting fluid, and see if it'll try to fire up. Also, have you cranked the motor with plugs out and EGI fuse pulled?
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