A/C removal ? w/ greddy fmic
#1
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A/C removal ? w/ greddy fmic
I'm in the middle of a greddy 2row FMIC and was contemplating the P/s and A/c removal. I read up on it..and know most peoples views. I'm gonna keep the P/S for now..but i don't really feel like dealing with the A/C condenser its blocks airflow etc.
1) Would it be possible to just remove the condenser by unscrewing the connections to the condenser?
2) What else is needed to disable the a/c system?
3) What will happen if i turn the a/c after this?
I'm looking for an easy option here if i decide to sell the car I'll have the option of hooking it back up.
4) could i do this and just recharge it?
Thanks in Advance! Nocab's 2row FMIC page is down too! anybody have any advice for the 2row install please PM me thanks!
1) Would it be possible to just remove the condenser by unscrewing the connections to the condenser?
2) What else is needed to disable the a/c system?
3) What will happen if i turn the a/c after this?
I'm looking for an easy option here if i decide to sell the car I'll have the option of hooking it back up.
4) could i do this and just recharge it?
Thanks in Advance! Nocab's 2row FMIC page is down too! anybody have any advice for the 2row install please PM me thanks!
#3
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Duh i read that more then once, but missed the condensor unhooking part Thanks for that...how about
What happens if you turn the A/C on at this point?
If i wanted to hook it back up, just hook the condensor back and get a recharge kit????
Thanks for all the help!
What happens if you turn the A/C on at this point?
If i wanted to hook it back up, just hook the condensor back and get a recharge kit????
Thanks for all the help!
#4
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You would have to put the compressor back in.( unless you didn't take it off, whichwould defeat the purpose.)
When you turn the air on,..(as long as the compressor is removed, otherwise it will pump the oil out into the engine bay) The ECU wil be "tricked" into thinking the a/c is on and will run the fans constantly...(A good thing in my book, helps keep water temps down) I believe it makes the ECU think they need one higher speed than demanded. It won't hurt the car ( other than maybe burning out the fan motors quicker)
When you want to sell the car or get a/c again, just reinstall everything and go have it recharged with the proper stuff. That's pretty much everything i can think of as of now.
When you turn the air on,..(as long as the compressor is removed, otherwise it will pump the oil out into the engine bay) The ECU wil be "tricked" into thinking the a/c is on and will run the fans constantly...(A good thing in my book, helps keep water temps down) I believe it makes the ECU think they need one higher speed than demanded. It won't hurt the car ( other than maybe burning out the fan motors quicker)
When you want to sell the car or get a/c again, just reinstall everything and go have it recharged with the proper stuff. That's pretty much everything i can think of as of now.
#6
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93Blackfd: you have a pm
So i have to remove the compressor also or oil will squirt out? What belt will fit now? thanks for the help its much appreciated
So i have to remove the compressor also or oil will squirt out? What belt will fit now? thanks for the help its much appreciated
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#10
the fans will run if you hit the ac switch with the compressor out. just measure the distance around the crank/ps and tensioner and go to napa match the belt pattern and length
#13
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I think its problem because issue of air flow..
after the FMIC, the air will travel to the least restrictive area.. in most cases, spaces between fmic and the radiator... I just got a plate made by Garfinkle and hope it will help with my watertemp.. I'll should know in couple of weeks.. My PFC commander is currently being modded so, I don't know what my water temp is..
after the FMIC, the air will travel to the least restrictive area.. in most cases, spaces between fmic and the radiator... I just got a plate made by Garfinkle and hope it will help with my watertemp.. I'll should know in couple of weeks.. My PFC commander is currently being modded so, I don't know what my water temp is..
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I made a underbelly/air scoop. that blocks the IC to the radiator. Also a plate as mentioned for the top side coverage. The air is directed from under the FMIC directly to the Radiator. The sides between the IC and rad. are sealed as well( as good as possible) This design brought the temps from 240-250 ( yeah that's right!!!!and that was with ALL new hoses and a new KOYO radiator) down to 180-185 cruising and 195 under full boost.
If someone wants to see it I can email them pics and they can post them if desired.
Definetly get a aftermarket water temp gauge if you do not already have one!!!As i said earlier. My temps went to 240-250 degrees!! NOT GOOD! I installed the temp gauge at the same time as the FMIC so I have no before and after temps...Sorry! The scoop and the fans running all the time do to the a/c being turned on,...keeps the engine cool.
I can't stress the temp gauge enough, mostly cause i am replacing the engine rite now do to Coolant seals going out.( heat related problem)
If someone wants to see it I can email them pics and they can post them if desired.
Definetly get a aftermarket water temp gauge if you do not already have one!!!As i said earlier. My temps went to 240-250 degrees!! NOT GOOD! I installed the temp gauge at the same time as the FMIC so I have no before and after temps...Sorry! The scoop and the fans running all the time do to the a/c being turned on,...keeps the engine cool.
I can't stress the temp gauge enough, mostly cause i am replacing the engine rite now do to Coolant seals going out.( heat related problem)
Last edited by BigIslandSevens; 03-29-04 at 01:01 PM.
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