breaking in a ported motor
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: San Gabriel Valley
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
breaking in a ported motor
does anybody have information on breaking in a rebuilt ported motor? will the rotors actually lock if you floor the petal without breaking it in? how many miles considered to be broken in? 500 mi? 1000 mi? 3000 mi?
#4
built my own engine
the bearings are your biggest concern, that and achieving optimal break-in on your apex seal/rotor housing surface
if you start loading the motor prematurely (during "breakin period") you will probably wear your bearings or limit the degree to which your apex seals will "mate" to your rotor housings
it's in your best interest to monitor your compression throughout the break in period to see when you are getting the highest numbers, add about 500miles to that and you're good to go
for example, the new rotary aviation seals that some of us are running do not achieve optimal compression until about 5000miles...
if you start loading the motor prematurely (during "breakin period") you will probably wear your bearings or limit the degree to which your apex seals will "mate" to your rotor housings
it's in your best interest to monitor your compression throughout the break in period to see when you are getting the highest numbers, add about 500miles to that and you're good to go
for example, the new rotary aviation seals that some of us are running do not achieve optimal compression until about 5000miles...
Trending Topics
#8
Tenseiga
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Iowa
Posts: 2,252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i say just change oil at 500/3000
oh yeah and DON'T use syn
and same thing taht was said about boost.
alot of ppl recommend not doing long highway drives at a constant rpm
this is b/c the leading/falling sides of the apexs need broken in.
oh yeah and DON'T use syn
and same thing taht was said about boost.
alot of ppl recommend not doing long highway drives at a constant rpm
this is b/c the leading/falling sides of the apexs need broken in.
#9
Full Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: fremont, ca
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you are using a ported motor, it seems that everyone says to use an aftermarket ECU, but you cannot tune it until its broken? right? So is mainly that just keeping it out of boost circumvents this problem momentarily?
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: San Gabriel Valley
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks for mentioning oil....what type of oil (weight) shall i use for break-in....and once broken in what is a good motor oil to stick with?? some people use different oil weights for winter and summer.....is that good...what are the specs of the oil?
#12
I need more black paint..
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Redlands CA
Posts: 525
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From what I've learned, you're kinda better off getting an Apex'i PFC or some other stand alone unit and having it tuned, in the long run I think you will be better off as the stock ECU is somewhat limited, and since a PFC with a commander is like $1250 if you look around, you don't save that much $ by just going with an A/F controller at the moment. You do have a boost controller, right? I don't mean to doubt you, but I just don't want anyone blowing their motors because of boost creep just after a rebuild. When it is first tuned, by a reputable rotary shop, I'm sure they can set it up for the break in period to run safe and healthy for a new ported motor. This isn't the cheapest way to go, but rebuilding your motor again wouldn't be very cost effective, either. Just my suggestions, good luck with your new motor.
#13
1JZ powered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
Posts: 4,423
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bearings are what your looking to break in more than anything. Your OIL PRESSURE is what you have to watch during break in. Lots of people talk about oil pressure gauges doing jack ****. It'll tell you alot about what your engine is doing. I've got over 1000 miles on my "new" engine. Guess what? It's NOT BROKEN IN. How do I know? Because my oil pressure hasn't dropped. When I casually accelerate, my oil pressure goes beyond the 8.0 kilos stock. With my stock(and engine's number 2, 3, 4, 5...lol) engine's, my oil pressure would ge to a max of 8.0 when FULLY BROKEN IN. Until then, the bearings are still wearing off that silver/white coating on the inside.
And for what it's worth...I run full synthetic.
And for what it's worth...I run full synthetic.
#14
Pimpin Rotors...and Hoes
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 1,401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by jspecracer7
Bearings are what your looking to break in more than anything. Your OIL PRESSURE is what you have to watch during break in. Lots of people talk about oil pressure gauges doing jack ****. It'll tell you alot about what your engine is doing. I've got over 1000 miles on my "new" engine. Guess what? It's NOT BROKEN IN. How do I know? Because my oil pressure hasn't dropped. When I casually accelerate, my oil pressure goes beyond the 8.0 kilos stock. With my stock(and engine's number 2, 3, 4, 5...lol) engine's, my oil pressure would ge to a max of 8.0 when FULLY BROKEN IN. Until then, the bearings are still wearing off that silver/white coating on the inside.
And for what it's worth...I run full synthetic.
Bearings are what your looking to break in more than anything. Your OIL PRESSURE is what you have to watch during break in. Lots of people talk about oil pressure gauges doing jack ****. It'll tell you alot about what your engine is doing. I've got over 1000 miles on my "new" engine. Guess what? It's NOT BROKEN IN. How do I know? Because my oil pressure hasn't dropped. When I casually accelerate, my oil pressure goes beyond the 8.0 kilos stock. With my stock(and engine's number 2, 3, 4, 5...lol) engine's, my oil pressure would ge to a max of 8.0 when FULLY BROKEN IN. Until then, the bearings are still wearing off that silver/white coating on the inside.
And for what it's worth...I run full synthetic.
#15
1JZ powered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
Posts: 4,423
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by badass7
Wow, never heard that one before. But, I have just a bit over 2k miles on my new rebuild and will keep an eye out for this. Interesting........not sure if it's a fact, but interesting.
Wow, never heard that one before. But, I have just a bit over 2k miles on my new rebuild and will keep an eye out for this. Interesting........not sure if it's a fact, but interesting.
When I would go past 3000 rpms, my oil pressure would climb to about 9 kilos(130 psi~) so I would keep it under 3000. After I passed the 800th KM mark, when I would go past 3000 rpms, my oil pressure would stay at 8 kilos, but when I would take her past 5000 rpms, the oil pressure would get past the 9 kilo mark again. So I figured I'd keep her below 5000 rpms until I got to the 1500 km mark. Once I reached that, I could go to 5000 rpms and my oil pressure went to 8 kilos instead of the previous 9 kilos.
My basic assumption is that the bearings are wearing down more(i.e. breaking in) and have less space between bearings and the e-shaft which would cause a drop in oil pressure.
With my first motor, I didn't really "break in" until almost the 3000 km mark. I know that on motors 2 thru 5, my PEAK oil pressure never surpassed 8.0 kilos(right around 116 psi~)
#20
built my own engine
synthetic is horrible for a breakin
rick engman of downing atlanta told me to run vavoline 20w50
as that's what he runs in all of his four rotors...
rick engman of downing atlanta told me to run vavoline 20w50
as that's what he runs in all of his four rotors...
#21
Rotary Enthusiast
Hey guys on the matter of oil. Eny one here used or know of eny that have tried Motul 15W50 2T race oil?
Ive been using it. Was recomended by some rotor guys in australia.
JT
Ive been using it. Was recomended by some rotor guys in australia.
JT
#23
Z06 powered FD
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 1,883
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've always been told to use Valvoline non syn for break in, for piston motors too. I think Val is one of the thinest oils out there.
And NO BOOST!
My friend just got a 2.3l motor built for his WRX. The assmebler heat cycled it twice and told him he could run 8-9psi!!!!!!!!!! With no miles on the motor!!!
And NO BOOST!
My friend just got a 2.3l motor built for his WRX. The assmebler heat cycled it twice and told him he could run 8-9psi!!!!!!!!!! With no miles on the motor!!!
#24
1JZ powered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
Posts: 4,423
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by GsrSol
I've always been told to use Valvoline non syn for break in, for piston motors too. I think Val is one of the thinest oils out there.
And NO BOOST!
My friend just got a 2.3l motor built for his WRX. The assmebler heat cycled it twice and told him he could run 8-9psi!!!!!!!!!! With no miles on the motor!!!
I've always been told to use Valvoline non syn for break in, for piston motors too. I think Val is one of the thinest oils out there.
And NO BOOST!
My friend just got a 2.3l motor built for his WRX. The assmebler heat cycled it twice and told him he could run 8-9psi!!!!!!!!!! With no miles on the motor!!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Skeese
Adaptronic Engine Mgmt - AUS
65
03-28-17 03:30 PM