95FD_VA

Anyone got a good trick to expand the calipers to put new pads in without using an expansion tool?

Thanks

paw140

Use a c-clamp. That's what most people do.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I wrap a 24mm wrench with a shop rag and press them in (on the front calipers that is).

SBi_Owner

You can buy a line lock clamp at most autoparts stores, place the clamp on the rubber brake line as close to the calaper as possable.

This will eliminate any air back into the system and eliminates any pressure relief from the ABS system.

You then can open the bleeder screw and push in the pistons. This is also a good time to check for seal leaks and bad hardware.

Be sure to tighten the bleeder screws after the pistons have been pushed in.

PLEASE, remember to remove the line lock clamp off of the line before the test drive, this will cause the calaper to be disabled if left on.

I put a big red ribbon on mine as a reminder it is there.

This is the best way to do it because it eliminated the need for bleeding the air from the line after a brake change. Also, do not forget to add new fluid as needed.

I guess in the 2 years at a brake shop I did learn something....LOL

SBi_Owner

Mahjik makes a good point as well, the rear calapers need to be rotated as they are pushed in.

They sell a cheap tool that fits on the end of a 3/8 retchet, looks like a cube with tabs on it.

If you manage to cram it in otherwise, it will destroy the calaper.

The same process applies to the rear brakes as well.

fitzrx7

iTrader: (1)

Buy speed bleeders, they are around $20 for all of the bleeders on the car, including the clutch slave.

Then just open the screw a turn, push the pistons in with any of the mentioned methods, and screw the bleeder back in. The speed bleeders are one way valves that let the brake fluid out but don't let air back in. Just don't over torque them, they crush pretty easy.

Also, I have heard that pushing brake fluid back into the system by not loosing the bleeder when you press in the piston can cause damage to the ABS pump thing, is don't have any proof of this, it's just somethign to think about.

PVerdieck

OK. For both fronts and rears you should bleed when you compress. Get some transparant hose, a jar, put a small box end wrench (6mm/7mm?) on the bleed screw, attach the hose. Turn it slightly to loosen the blled screw so a little fluid dribbles out.

Use 1.5 or 2 inch c-clamps on the front. In the rear, you can use a pair of needle nose pliers to rotate the piston.