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A bit of info on Marvel Mystery Oil, and cleaning and lubricating of 13B internals
Did a bit of searching around the net. Didn't really get the results I was looking for. It would appear that the stuff is ok for use on our rotary engines, but I didn't find anything conclusive. I'm thinking of just changing my oil every 1000 miles and letting my MOP do it's job as far as the lubrication is concerned, and using the ATF trick as a periodical cleaning.
__________________ Every man shall be held accountable for every one of his actions. The question is not 'if,' but 'when.' 1995 BB PEP (35k miles), 1993 BB R1 (12k miles), 1993 VR R1 (124k miles), 1993 VR R1 (RIP), 1990 triple black vert (167k miles)
Back from DGRR---2013B Madness
Good to share the info, but some of it is totally outdated.
Mobil 1 has been approved for all rotary's
MMO is just the old 'Top Oil' a lot of ppl use to sell.
Some benefit, some snake oil effect.
Two stroke oil would be just as good. Use 200:1 and keep the OMP.
Originally posted by weaklink interesting MMO info...thanks. The ATF link doesn't work, says FORBIDDEN. Have you ever used ATF personally?
You're welcome . I went back on google and found the page again, and it's definitely 'forbidden' now. Weird. It basically just tells you to squirt ATF into both housings for all three faces of the rotor and let it sit overnight. Start her up the next day and drive around to clean out the motor.
I've used ATF to help start a flooded motor in extreme cases, but that's about it. I'm going to try the ATF cleaning trick when I get back to my 7.
Thanks for the links. I always figured it was a type of "Top Oil" as stated above. I used it every tank in my first gens.
I've also considered using AMSOIL 2 cycle lube. That stuff is just a miracle cure for 2 cycle engines. I used to have to rebuild the (3) carbs in my outboard every 2 years. When I switched from dino 2-cycle to Amsoil, never had to do it again. Stuff burns very clean and it a strong detergent. I'm just not sure of the effect on the catalytic converter and all.
My theory has always been that you can never have too much lubrication. At least when it comes to car motors.
Rich you must be bored over there. Lots of time spent thinking about the 7 and not defending freedom. j/k
Good info though. I'm glad someone took the time to put this together. Good luck.
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93 VR touring (Sold)
Mods: KDR rebuit motor, rebuilt turbos setup full non-sequential, Steve Kan tuned APEXi Power FC and commander, other bolt ons.
Anybody heard of Yamalube? I heard it was good stuff used by a lot of SCCA Spec racing guys.
__________________
93 RX7 Silver w/ Re Amemiya body kit and Mazdaspeed wing. Street ported w/ 3mm apex seals. Blue printed turbo's, XS front mount I.C, Fluidyne radiator, Crane hI-6 ,ported wastegate, big bore throttle body and A.C/P.S removal. Autometer race guages, Cusco fuel pump, front and rear strut brace, EFI PMS, 12.1 best 1/4 mile
Can I ask a really dumb question? Ok, now that I have I got a couple others.
1) Since we *KNOW* 100 pct for a fact that synthetic oil is *BETTER* for the turbos and
2) Turbo's cost *MORE* than the freaking engine and
3) Any benefit or detriment that the engine may have from using synthetic or dyno juice is a moot point considering the life span of the 13B-Rew is not long enough for those factors to come into play, then the argument for synthetic for the turbos is more than irrelevant, huh?
I use 4oz of MMO every tank. I know two guys who are both over 60 and have worked on heavy, diesel-powered machinery forever. They both say that MMO can restore power to old diesels. The rotary obviously isn't a diesel, but both their seals need to be in great condition and they both need to cover a lot of real estate.
__________________ CAR: 8/'92 VR auto 112kmi MODS: HKS MS DP w/ asbestos wrap,gutted main cat,Pettit AST,boost gauge,Si hoses,eliminated(EGR, AWS, ACV, DT, airpump) PROBS: squeeky hatch/wing,ratchet sound when backing up and turning left,Stock Bose premium system,driver interior door handle loose,windshield sprayers,blower rattles on high,left headlight actuator,right-rear tire hitting fender lip,driver's side window switch,odometer,oil pressure gauge,peeling clear coat
Originally posted by ZeroBanger Can I ask a really dumb question? Ok, now that I have I got a couple others.
1) Since we *KNOW* 100 pct for a fact that synthetic oil is *BETTER* for the turbos and
2) Turbo's cost *MORE* than the freaking engine and
3) Any benefit or detriment that the engine may have from using synthetic or dyno juice is a moot point considering the life span of the 13B-Rew is not long enough for those factors to come into play, then the argument for synthetic for the turbos is more than irrelevant, huh?
Damn, I should be scientist or something.
All good points to me! I'm sure the dino juice crowd could come up with some argument.....
Originally posted by rynberg I thought that the engine rebuilders preferred Vaseline.....
EDIT: BTW, I'm not sure whether to be surprised or disappointed that there wasn't any sexual innuendo until the 11th post -- way to go Rich!
[takes a bow] Thank you. Thank you very much. You can always count on me to introduce debauchery into any thread I post in
You've seen the movie Van Wilder? If not, rent it. When my princess and I used the yamalube, it was kinda like that scene where Van Wilder's Indian assistant buddy is romancing that fine girl and keeps slipping and sliding off her onto the floor....."Just once I would like to dine at an American pink taco stand"
You guys need to stop it! You're getting me excited.
Damn! I'm off to the Thong Thursdays!
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93 RX7 Silver w/ Re Amemiya body kit and Mazdaspeed wing. Street ported w/ 3mm apex seals. Blue printed turbo's, XS front mount I.C, Fluidyne radiator, Crane hI-6 ,ported wastegate, big bore throttle body and A.C/P.S removal. Autometer race guages, Cusco fuel pump, front and rear strut brace, EFI PMS, 12.1 best 1/4 mile
. I went back on google and found the page again, and it's definitely 'forbidden' now. Weird. It basically just tells you to squirt ATF into both housings for all three faces of the rotor and let it sit overnight. Start her up the next day and drive around to clean out the motor.
At least when it comes to car motors.
Linear Mode
