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I have searched all over the forums and spent many hours under the car and so I am left to just lay it all into a thread and see if anyone has any ideas.
I have a noise coming from the rear suspension area it is a jiggling type noise as if something is loosely moving up and down. It only occurs when I am coasting, under acceleration of even throttle load it goes away, it goes away under braking as well. If I pulsate the brake pedal I can get it to make the sound at low speeds, when coming to a stop.
I tightened EVERYTHING in the rear suspension. RP trailing arms and toe links, solid poly diff mounts, I replaced all of the pillowballs, I tightened every subframe mounting point and all the suspension bolts including the shock mount bolts and the nut on the top of the shock pillowmount. I tightened the hatch latch...on and on...
Does anyone have any ideas? I am at my wits end, and it almost sounds like it is dangerous...could it be a toasted diff?
__________________
Brian Kraemer -
2004 BMW M3 - BBS, Ground Control and Supersprint
1991 BMW 318i - F20C swap coming (ultimate bastard)
1994 FD single turbo to LS1 - sold
If you have a stock cat, check the heat shields. The brackets break at the weld but don't come completely loose - it all looks fine until you shake it and hear the stuff squeaking.
turning the bolt on the sway bar link wont do any good if the bushing is toast. do less wrenching more prying/pulling and feel for any slack in the joints
Make sure your exhaust isn't hitting the subframe. I've had problems when I had my junky Ebay midpipe on the car that didn't fit properly. Wiggle the exhaust system around and see if it hits somewhere.
Dale
__________________ | Dale Clark - RX-7 Bad-Ass
| '94 RX-7 R2 Brillant Black - Building the Perfect FD
| Go faster with stripes!
Make sure your exhaust isn't hitting the subframe. I've had problems when I had my junky Ebay midpipe on the car that didn't fit properly. Wiggle the exhaust system around and see if it hits somewhere.
Dale
ive tried it with my car, there nothing lose, some ppl say i just need to replace some bushings
I had to replace my pillow ***** in all the the rear suspension arms and that did the trick. If you've already done that, swing your exhaust and see if it hits anything
I have tried checking the u-joints and they don't seem to have play. But how can you check for sure?
Also...The only way I can for sure replicate the noise is by pulsating the brake pedal. So if I hit it on..then off..then on again real quick it makes the noise.
One thing is of note...This weekend I pulled my front subframe to replace the oilpan and seal it correctly (as it was leaking). I have poly engine mounts that are going in at the same time...the driver's side aluminum mount was totally toasted...as in the rubber part of it was not even one piece. I hope this is/was my problem..but I wont know for sure until the car is back on the road, and that could be a week or so from now.
All pillow ***** were replaced. It is not a bushing...and there is no play when prying/jerking on the rear wheels.
I think one of my rear shocks may be blown...so I think coilovers are on the way. May as well spend the money now and be satisfied.
And for what it is worth this car will see 20+ track weekends a year...so I need to get the kinks worked out.
Replace all the shocks (cause really that is the only way to do it right) and still be dissatisfied...or put the coilovers on and be satisfied? I think it is worth the extra money.
I think the noise is elsewhere.
I put the car on the road today with the urethane engine mounts and the noise is still there.
But there is much better throttle response and far less drivetrain movement. Definately what I was looking for in that regard!
2. Depends on what you mean by "jiggling noise." But I did post that I thought these might be the culprits since it occurs under no load or load reversal.
If I pulsate the brake pedal I can get it to make the sound at low speeds, when coming to a stop.
I tightened EVERYTHING in the rear suspension. RP trailing arms and toe links
It's the toe links. Guaranteed. Aftermarket toe links use solid rod ends that wear quickly on the street and then make noise. When they've just begun to get noisy there isn't enough slop to feel movement but you can hear a light clank.
It's the toe links. Guaranteed. Aftermarket toe links use solid rod ends that wear quickly on the street and then make noise. When they've just begun to get noisy there isn't enough slop to feel movement but you can hear a light clank.
My toe links are brand new...maybe 30 miles on them from driving to and from the aligment shop.
I will check them to be sure...but almost every part in the rear suspension that I could replace I have. I hate noises (like this...but I can definately tollerate vibrations ) and I figured I am building this car for the track so it has to be done right anyway...of course I would never rule out the possibility and will definately check them tonight when I get home.
Last edited by cozmo kraemer; 01-24-06 at 01:00 PM.
I ordered the Tein Flex coilovers today so I will put those in this weekend, if I get them in time. I will write up a review of them as soon as I can get some track time.
If they, on an off chance, fix my problem I will be uber happy. Otherwise I had Tein RE on my Integra Type R racecar and I loved those! So I am sure these will be a good track...occational street driven...suspension setup.
There could still be a possibility that the rod-ends used were out of spec and not tight enough, or even that somehow the manufacturer by mistake used metal-race rod ends instead of Teflon-lined units.
It doesn't appear that it is the rear brake pads. However in checking them I did find that the ABS sensors were mighty loose! And that one of the caliper bolts in the front was missing a washer so it was grinding against the rotor because it was through the mounting bracket too far. It appears someone thought that this grinding noise was related to the heat shield so they cut it, and zip tied it back out of the way...
I am going to make a new thread about all the crap that I have found wrong with this car. Seth at Pure Sports in Ramona, said this car was good to go...track ready...all systems functional...HA! My foot, this car is ready! ...had I known more about these cars then, I would have walked away real fast. But flying out to look at a car you are prepared to buy...being picked up and driven 45 minutes by the owner up to get to the car...then having a feeling it is a bad idea...is a very difficult situation...trusting the mechanic, Seth, was my biggest mistake.
Last edited by cozmo kraemer; 01-26-06 at 10:09 AM.
) and I figured I am building this car for the track so it has to be done right anyway...of course I would never rule out the possibility and will definately check them tonight when I get home.
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