speeddemon7

Ok so here the problem.My Accelarated warmup system is either out of whack or malfunctioning.When I start my car the system sometimes works and idles the car at 3 grand but sometimes it idles normally.Unless you touch the gas pedal.Then all hell breaks lose.The damn car raises the rpms at a very fast rate.Sometimes hitting 5000 grand or more.Im afraid the engine is going to blow with this kind of thing happening.And theres no way of making the rpms come back down untill the system runs its course.This is of course also happening when its real cold outside.
The real problem is that this is very dangerous.I have an auto and today I started the car up and it idled alright.No aws.I totally spaced and put the car in drive and thats when it happened.The car took off on its own.
The car became a runaway and it took me stomping the brake all the way down and pulling the e brake all the way down to slow the car to a stop.And it was still idling at 2000 grand untill the system warmed up enough and then the rpms came back down to 800.
Is there a way to limit how high the aws system revs up the engine? If so please help me out.
Also if this doesnt work whats the easiest way to dissable the system? and are there any nagative effects to dissabling the system?

DCrosby

Wow, another reason I'm gad I've got a manual trans...
Well, there are a couple of things, mainly the hose that goes into your elbow, and a couple of coolant hoses that go in and out of your throttle body, to activate the seconday butterflies....

speeddemon7

you said secondary butterflies.The throttle body has 3 round holes.Two on top and one on the bottom.The two on top have butterflies and the single on bottom has nothing.Is this normal?
So the hose on the intake elbow needs to be removed?
I ordered the greddy elbow so this should take care of that.Now about the other things? Any other actuators or electrical type of controls? If so which do I need to disconnect?

speeddemon7

what I really want to get rid of is the idling all of a sudden thing.I dont really mind the coolant flowing through the throttle body.especially whens its cold as hell outside.But I do mind the engine reving up so high when its really cold outside.I dont want the engine or any of its components cracking.

speeddemon7

forget about the throttle body question.I just realized that the secondary butterflies were on the uim itself and that theres 3 butterflies on the throttle body itself.I got confused for a minute.

speeddemon7

ok I know someone else knows how to disconnect this system.Come on guys let me know.Share the knowledge.

Zyon13B

It will stop if you pull the electrical plug out, But the check engine light will come on if you have the stock ECU. Maybe resistors on the plug would work....

speeddemon7

which electrical plug is it? also are there any websites that show you how to get rid of the aws ? thanx.

speeddemon7

Ok so I managed to find out what exactly the aws was.A solenoid on the underside of the uim with an electrical connection to it.I searched the forum for any more info but didnt find anything that would help my situation.
If possible I would like to keep the aws since the car was designed with it.But I cant seem to find out a way to limit how high the car idles at when the aws system engages.If I could do that then the problem would be solved.
Next would be the greddy elbow.It doesnt have a hose connector so what do I do? Do I have one added? or do I just put a rubber cap on the other end and not worry about it? I see a lot of you have the greddy elbow so if anyone has a good setup.Id really appreciate it.Thanx again.

DCrosby

AWS was to heat the pre-cat, that you hopefully replaced with a DP, and therefore there's no need for AWS, even further aws was designed to reduce emissions when the cats were cold, at the expense of your engine (wear and tear).

clayne

It was only "designed" for it because of cold-start emissions.

Dump it, trust me.

speeddemon7

thanx for answering my questions guys.
Sounds to me like the aws is more harmfull than good.
So what exactly do I need to remove the whole system?
So far i know the air hose that goes from the throtle body elbow to the uim.Also the uim part that the hose connects to bolts onto the uim.So I will need a block of plate right? The aws solenoid is also bolted to the underside of the uim so that needs to go as well and it also needs to be blocked off by a plate right? And I think someone mentioned a resistor on the aws solenoid harness plug.
Thing is I dont know jack about resistors so if anyone can help me there id really appreciate it.Also where can I buy the two block off plates for the uim? and the resistor for the harness plug.
Thanx

speeddemon7

ok.So does anyone know where I can get the block off plates from? And also what kind of resistor I need to put on the harness plug and where I can buy it?
Thanx.

speeddemon7

ok.So does anyone know where I can get the block off plates from? And also what kind of resistor I need to put on the harness plug and where I can buy it?
Thanx.

patfat

RX7store.net sells them

speeddemon7

thanx pat.

speeddemon7

alright so now all I need is to find the info on a resistor for the aws solenoid and I should be set.

patfat

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/AWS_mod.html

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...t=aws+solenoid

I think the solenoid it under the tb.

J.S.J

I would think if you were to measure the resistance of the solenoid which the connector plugs into would be a good guide to the resistance needed to fool the computer.

speeddemon7

ok now im seriously confused.I went and disconnected the aws solenoid connector.Which in theory should dissable the aws system right? I disconnected the connector and nothing else.I went to start the car and sure it idled real low.I tapped the gas and sure as hell the damn rpms climbed higher and higher until the system warmed up and then it droped back down to 8oo rpms.So what gives? Do I also have to disconnect the air hose that goes from the tb elbow to the solenoid in order to dissable the system?

speeddemon7

I dont get how the aws is still working without the plug? what gives? someone help me see the light.

Kento

The fast idle cam and wax rod is why

DCrosby

sometimes putting some penetrating oil back there will unstick the bearings, when I cleaned and polished my UIM I cleaned it Good, to the point that those stuck, mechanic put some penetrating oil back there and they un-stuck...
Also, you might have a vaccuum leak somewhere after the Throttle body, what you're describing sounds like AWS, but most likely something else is wrong if it's beahaving so badly...

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

You don't need a resistor.

speeddemon7

When I disconnected the plug from the aws no check engine light came on.So You are correct.I dont need a resistor.The car did stall though.So Im thinking of removing the air line that goes to the aws solenoid and that should pretty much render it useless without having to unplug the solenoid.This way the computer gets a signal from the aws solenoid even though its not really doing anything.
I believe Kento is right about the waxrod and fast idle cam.Because as soon as the car starts to warm up the idle returns to normal.Can someone post a pic of what this waxrod and fast idle cam looks like? And yes I just finished polishing my uim.But I had this problem before I even polished the uim.Ohh and where am I supposed to put some penetrating oil Crosby? Ive put some on the front side of the throttle body area where the throttle cable is.I sprayed it with carb cleaner to clean it all off and then hit it with some wd 40.
To me it seems like the throttle plates for some reason are sticking.Probably because of this waxrod fast idle cam thing.It friggin scary as hell.Especially if you forget about it and the car is idling normally.Its very misleading and you think the car is warmed up.Only to put it in drive and the car takes of like youre in a drag race.Ive never seen that kind of speed off the line.Not even when I try.