anything wrong in this pic?
05-14-07, 05:26 PM
#1
anything wrong in this pic?
yesterday i was at e-town and after my third run i stoped to get my timeslip and the car wouldnt go into gear. it made the pass fine but when i came to a stop it wouldnt go into anygear without being forced. i was able to drive home but it took more + more force to put the car in gear everytime . the clutch pedal feels normal + is at normal height , also checked fluid and was good. i did a search and read alot of posts on broken clutch fork so i went under car today and everything looks good. is there something wrong i don't see in the pics? (i know the pics are kinda dark going to take more tommorow) the last pic someone is stepping on the clutch. thanks for the help
05-14-07, 06:55 PM
#2
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It looks like maybe your snap ring that hold the pressure plate out came loose. You need to get it to engage by pushing the clutch hard. Or else you will have to unbolt it.
05-14-07, 07:10 PM
#3
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Isn't that what the clutch should look like when the clutch pedal is pushed in? I thought the throw-out bearing should be resting against the clutch when the pedal isn't pushed in. I could be wrong, and probably am. Anyone else?
05-14-07, 07:50 PM
#4
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Had a similar issue once, when driving my car hard. I messed up shift fork. I got it to work again very smooth in all first 4 gears but 5th was little hard to get in and I couldn't put it in reverse at all.
05-14-07, 08:00 PM
#5
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I don't think there's supposed to be that much gap between the ring though. Looks like the ring fingers (not on the pressure plate) but on the snap ring may have stretched causing your clutch not to fully disenegage. I also haven't see fingers on a pressure plate like that but it looks like you have an exedy or something so it may really be like that.
05-15-07, 02:15 AM
#7
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05-20-07, 07:39 PM
#11
i took some better pics also i tried to move clutch fork by hand and its almost impossible i was only able to move it alittle pushing toward tranny and it wont move at all pushing toward motor . the clutch is not being pressed in any pics. thanks
05-21-07, 06:44 PM
#13
the snap ring is definitely doing it's job still. when I separated my transmission via the snap ring method, the bearing sprung away from the clutch completely. I also had the slave cylinder removed already, don't know if that would make a difference.
05-22-07, 07:03 AM
#16
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The clutch operation looks normal to me.
I pulled my gearbox out about 3weeks ago. I had an issue that had the car refusing to get into gear when the engine was running, I was able to get it into gear when the engine was off.
If your clutch is working like that off the pedal, then I'd assume your slave and master cylinder are also working fine.
My guess would be the pilot bearing. Has it had the gearbox out before ? My money would be on a missing grease seal, and thats lead to pilot bearing failure.
If not...
Whats wrong with the car firstly ?
I pulled my gearbox out about 3weeks ago. I had an issue that had the car refusing to get into gear when the engine was running, I was able to get it into gear when the engine was off.
If your clutch is working like that off the pedal, then I'd assume your slave and master cylinder are also working fine.
My guess would be the pilot bearing. Has it had the gearbox out before ? My money would be on a missing grease seal, and thats lead to pilot bearing failure.
If not...
Whats wrong with the car firstly ?
05-22-07, 11:45 PM
#18
Junior Member
Man,
I'll be truthful to you - Its a ***** of a job.
You have to remove the gearbox, the gearbox might be harder to remove as the shaft might of welded itself to the bearing. You might need to pry bar/lever the gearbox off.
You may also need to dremal or chisel out the old pilot bearings (or parts of the pilot left behind). The way you do this, is dremal one part of the pilot bearing down till you hit the ecentric shaft. Then with a chisel, knock out the bearing - with the one side gone, it kind of collpases on itself.
The pilot bearing should always be fitted with grease and a rubbery type grease seal. The pilot bearing fails if this isn't done.
Some people get away with just greasing up the bearing, but for $2 part, I wouldn't risk it.
I'll be truthful to you - Its a ***** of a job.
You have to remove the gearbox, the gearbox might be harder to remove as the shaft might of welded itself to the bearing. You might need to pry bar/lever the gearbox off.
You may also need to dremal or chisel out the old pilot bearings (or parts of the pilot left behind). The way you do this, is dremal one part of the pilot bearing down till you hit the ecentric shaft. Then with a chisel, knock out the bearing - with the one side gone, it kind of collpases on itself.
The pilot bearing should always be fitted with grease and a rubbery type grease seal. The pilot bearing fails if this isn't done.
Some people get away with just greasing up the bearing, but for $2 part, I wouldn't risk it.
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