byrden

iTrader: (1)

I just finished putting my engine back in and decided to do the poor man's polyurethane motor mounts to replace my bad stock ones. If anyone is contemplating doing this, I highly recommend this mod. I definitely get more feedback from the engine, vibration and a throatier exhaust sound, but nothing annoying. Also with this mod there definitely is no need for a torque brace, the engine barely moves (the shift **** no longer looks like a spoon stuck in a bowl of jello). Anyways, the car feels tighter (and I like the new sounds and vibration). Can't beat new motor mounts for ~$70 (and a little bit of elbow grease).

HobbeZ

how do you do this poor man's version just fill the stock ones with polyurethane?

93BlackFD

throatier exhaust sound? wtf? it's motor mounts

byrden

iTrader: (1)

Basically, I just got a 3" dia. polyurethane rod from mcm@ster, 6" in length, cut sections to match the height of the stock rubber inserts and run a bolt through the "sandwich". I got the idea from this forum, its nothing new, there are older posts that go into more detail. The hardest part is cutting the polyurethane (without making a big mess).

byrden

iTrader: (1)

I know that sounds retarded, but since the polyurethane is not soft like the stock rubber, more vibration (including sound vibration from the exhaust) is transmitted and resonates through the frame. Therefore the exhaust sound is more noticeable inside the car. At least thats my story...

billyrohm

What hardness/mixture of poly did you use?

machinis

Hmm.. Interesting. More info please! Pictures??

VQracer

interesting.... what tool do you use to cut the urethane?

i bought rotorsports racing engine mounts, and paid a nice premium for it.

poss

iTrader: (5)

Gotham Racing has good deals on their mounts right now.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

I need new motor mounts too

I just checked prices (Dang is there anything inexpensive on this thing???)

byrden

iTrader: (1)

The polyurethane that I used is 80 shore A, 3000 psi (amber color). I used a compound mitre saw to cut the stuff, it sort of melts as you cut it and gets all over the saw so its fairly messy. I have the earlier style motor mounts with the aluminum driver side mount. This one is a little tricky because the mount has a protrusion that goes into the stock rubber insert. You could probably machine this protrusion down so that the mount has a flat surface, I just made a recess into the polyurethane puck that matched the protrusion on the mount its hard to explain, it makes sense if you can see it but I dont have any pictures. I cut a 2.1" puck for the pass. side, and a 2.3" puck for the driver side. Then I cut two 3/8" pucks to go on the bottom of the subframe. The 6" length rod from Mcm@ster was just enough. I used two 4" length bolts to bolt the whole sandwich together. I fed the bolts up from the bottom so that the least amount of bolt protrudes down from the subrame, and used thread locker on the nuts. Maybe I can take some pictures if I can get the camera working.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Tight! I'd like to see pic's to.

Who's the guy that used hockey pucks? ...and how did those hold up?

spoolin93r1

i got solid aluminum ones for $110 shipped