AEM IGN-1A Mercury Marine ignition coil info/install
#201
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Specialty aftermarket parts & service // Fremont, California
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SAKEBOMB GARAGE LLC
www.SAKEBOMBGARAGE.com
Specialty aftermarket parts & service // Fremont, California
Contact: info@sakebombgarage.com
#203
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SAKEBOMB GARAGE LLC
www.SAKEBOMBGARAGE.com
Specialty aftermarket parts & service // Fremont, California
Contact: info@sakebombgarage.com
SAKEBOMB GARAGE LLC
www.SAKEBOMBGARAGE.com
Specialty aftermarket parts & service // Fremont, California
Contact: info@sakebombgarage.com
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grinn253 (05-27-21)
#205
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#206
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Gents,
did a small write up on getting the IGN-1a coils to work with the AEM EMS.
hopefully this helps some of you that are getting stuck.
https://www.rx7club.com/aem-ems-81/i...rking-1073653/
did a small write up on getting the IGN-1a coils to work with the AEM EMS.
hopefully this helps some of you that are getting stuck.
https://www.rx7club.com/aem-ems-81/i...rking-1073653/
#207
Senior Member
iTrader: (9)
Very interested in write up, can you link us to attachment or have you posted on forum.
found link
https://www.rx7club.com/aem-ems-81/i...rking-1073653/
#213
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right.
but i am getting spark on all 4, but would like to see if one of the coils is potentially dying and would like to see if i can ohm them out, but for some reason i can't get any resistance readings from them.
but i am getting spark on all 4, but would like to see if one of the coils is potentially dying and would like to see if i can ohm them out, but for some reason i can't get any resistance readings from them.
#214
Senior Member
If you want to test them, you'd really need to use an oscilloscope. You could evaluate the input signal, power supply and ground, and output.
Unfortunately because the igniter is built in, testing the resistance isn't going to yield reliable results.
What is wrong that makes you think you may have a bad coil?
Unfortunately because the igniter is built in, testing the resistance isn't going to yield reliable results.
What is wrong that makes you think you may have a bad coil?
#215
Rotor Head Extreme
iTrader: (8)
I just finished installing IGN-1A coils from DIY auto tune and some Magnacor KV85 plug wires on my NA 20b and all I can say is hell yea! She is finally purring like a kitten with no hicuups or missfires. I had been running some used Ls1 coils but started having problems with break up over 5k. Can't wait to drive it again when the weather clears. I'll post pics soon of the bracket I made since I have them mounted in the power steering location.
#217
Just a heads up to everyone interested in the IGN-1A setup for their FD... the most costly part of the kit (labor/cost wise) has been the coil harness. We may have come up with a way to produce them in a more cost effective manner... stay tuned, we should (keeping my fingers crossed) have something new to release in the next couple weeks. Keep those IGN-1A conversions coming... it's inspiring to see all of the various mounting solutions for the FD
FD3S: Complete Package - IGN-1A Ignition Upgrade Kit + LHD Mount - SakeBomb Garage LLC
-Heath
FD3S: Complete Package - IGN-1A Ignition Upgrade Kit + LHD Mount - SakeBomb Garage LLC
-Heath
__________________
SAKEBOMB GARAGE LLC
www.SAKEBOMBGARAGE.com
Specialty aftermarket parts & service // Fremont, California
Contact: info@sakebombgarage.com
SAKEBOMB GARAGE LLC
www.SAKEBOMBGARAGE.com
Specialty aftermarket parts & service // Fremont, California
Contact: info@sakebombgarage.com
#219
Full Member
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Just a heads up to everyone interested in the IGN-1A setup for their FD... the most costly part of the kit (labor/cost wise) has been the coil harness. We may have come up with a way to produce them in a more cost effective manner... stay tuned, we should (keeping my fingers crossed) have something new to release in the next couple weeks. Keep those IGN-1A conversions coming... it's inspiring to see all of the various mounting solutions for the FD
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Just a heads up to everyone interested in the IGN-1A setup for their FD... the most costly part of the kit (labor/cost wise) has been the coil harness. We may have come up with a way to produce them in a more cost effective manner... stay tuned, we should (keeping my fingers crossed) have something new to release in the next couple weeks. Keep those IGN-1A conversions coming... it's inspiring to see all of the various mounting solutions for the FD
-Heath
-Heath
just ordered my kit last night
#223
Rotor Head Extreme
iTrader: (8)
^ I've always liked the coil on plug concepts for rotarys but this one sticks the coils out too far. The coils would interfere with A/C, power steering hoses and the steering linkage for left hand drive cars. I tried to do something similar a couple years ago but didn't have the room so I turned the coils around and had them mounted near the block with the leads pointing out. The thick center plate of the 20b gives you wider space plus it already has bolt holes to mount whatever bracket you design. Someone needs to finally put something together for the masses that works. Long spark plug leads always have a chance to arc.
#224
^ I've always liked the coil on plug concepts for rotarys but this one sticks the coils out too far. The coils would interfere with A/C, power steering hoses and the steering linkage for left hand drive cars. I tried to do something similar a couple years ago but didn't have the room so I turned the coils around and had them mounted near the block with the leads pointing out. The thick center plate of the 20b gives you wider space plus it already has bolt holes to mount whatever bracket you design. Someone needs to finally put something together for the masses that works. Long spark plug leads always have a chance to arc.
Arcing is a thing of the past with any decent wire, as well as EMF and resistance. The wire we use in our kits has two thick silicone insulators (inner and outer) which do not break down over time and can withstand immense heat (even without heat sleeves). It's specially wound to suppress EMF while remaining ultra-low in resistance. For instance the relatively "long" wires we use to reach to the cruise location only have a resistance in the 120-180ohm range... in the ignition arena that's extraordinarily low. We've run these same wires for years and retested them and have only gained 10-20 ohms from what it was when new. And the flip side is the coils get to live in a nice cool vibration free environment (as well as keeping your coil harness heat free).
Coil-on-plug does look cool, I'll admit, but from a functional standpoint you're not gaining anything performance wise, and are adding heat and vibration to the coils, both of which will reduce the lifespan. These coils have a massive aluminum heat sink grid underneath... they get hot and reed cool air, especially when you're driving them to their full potential.
-Heath
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SAKEBOMB GARAGE LLC
www.SAKEBOMBGARAGE.com
Specialty aftermarket parts & service // Fremont, California
Contact: info@sakebombgarage.com
SAKEBOMB GARAGE LLC
www.SAKEBOMBGARAGE.com
Specialty aftermarket parts & service // Fremont, California
Contact: info@sakebombgarage.com
#225
Rotor Head Extreme
iTrader: (8)
^ Yea the EMI I think is what was causing me problems with my ignition. My engine was always running different for whatever reason. I had a universal set of Summit Racing wires that I made for the LS1 coils. They virtually had no resistence at all (which is what I thought was best years ago). Then I found this info here recently and made a change.
http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/main.htm
Truthfully I really dont think there's much heat near the plugs because of all the turbulence you would get from the ground while driving plus heat rises. Plus its about the only way to keep all accessories like power steering, A/C, and cruise. There isn't much air flow on top of the engine with the hood shut. Cruise location is probably the coolest spot in the engine bay (provided you dont need cruise control). Cruise is one thing I can't be without because I have driven my car cross country.
http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/main.htm
Truthfully I really dont think there's much heat near the plugs because of all the turbulence you would get from the ground while driving plus heat rises. Plus its about the only way to keep all accessories like power steering, A/C, and cruise. There isn't much air flow on top of the engine with the hood shut. Cruise location is probably the coolest spot in the engine bay (provided you dont need cruise control). Cruise is one thing I can't be without because I have driven my car cross country.