Advice on installing pilot bearing oil seal
04-21-07, 11:45 AM
#1
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Advice on installing pilot bearing oil seal
Need some advice on installing pilot bearing oil seal without bending it. I already went through 2 seals, would it be good idea to put the seal on the imput shaft and put the trans on or install it into the crank?
04-21-07, 12:13 PM
#2
Warming the planet.
Make sure the bearing is installed correctly, it sould be about 7/16" into the e-shaft.
Use a socket with a slightly smaller OD to press the seal and start the seal into the shaft by hand.
Making sure the seal is square with the shaft bore, used a dead blow hammer and gently tap into place. Take your time.
Tap in untill the outside of the seal is flush with the bottem of the camfer in the e-shaft.
Take caution when installing the transmission, a missalignment of the input shaft and e-shaft can damage the seal and/or bearing when installing.
Paul
Use a socket with a slightly smaller OD to press the seal and start the seal into the shaft by hand.
Making sure the seal is square with the shaft bore, used a dead blow hammer and gently tap into place. Take your time.
Tap in untill the outside of the seal is flush with the bottem of the camfer in the e-shaft.
Take caution when installing the transmission, a missalignment of the input shaft and e-shaft can damage the seal and/or bearing when installing.
Paul
Last edited by Gadd; 04-21-07 at 12:40 PM.
04-21-07, 04:59 PM
#6
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If the clutch splines were properly aligned with the clutch alignment tool during assembly, and you do not ram force the transmission into the clutch, you should not be having these problems.
So what are your doing so wrong? This question is for you to think about, not to reply.
So what are your doing so wrong? This question is for you to think about, not to reply.
04-21-07, 09:59 PM
#7
Originally Posted by katit
....Also, I didn't see that seal in any other cars. Nice touch, but I don't see much value in this application.
Ask me how I know....
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04-21-07, 10:02 PM
#8
If you're breaking pilot bearing seals trying to get the tranny in, you don't have the tranny lined up right.
It's annoying as hell, but if you roughhouse anything during this step you will have failed bearings before long. Having a proper tranny jack is very helpful. Otherwise, you'll have to try, try, try again until you have it all lined up and it just fits together.
Dave
It's annoying as hell, but if you roughhouse anything during this step you will have failed bearings before long. Having a proper tranny jack is very helpful. Otherwise, you'll have to try, try, try again until you have it all lined up and it just fits together.
Dave
04-21-07, 10:26 PM
#9
Originally Posted by Speed of light
The pilot bearing seal is critical in this application. With no seal, the lubrication will eventually run out (and dirt will migrate in as well) leading to pilot bearing failure.
Ask me how I know....
Ask me how I know....
I'm just curious how many miles it took to wear out bearing?My theory is that because of heat grease can get liquid in our cars. And also because of RPM's. But that bearing only work when you disengage clutch. And it only works hard when you do 5k clutch drops
I replaced my clutch few weeks ago. Was able to remove and reuse old seal. Usually I replace this stuff but I didn't know there is one and didn't have it ordered. Realized that it's only for grease and reused old one (looked good)
That seal looks like a joke
04-22-07, 01:20 PM
#10
Originally Posted by katit
How do you know? I'm just curious how many miles it took to wear out bearing?
My theory is that because of heat grease can get liquid in our cars. And also because of RPM's. But that bearing only work when you disengage clutch. And it only works hard when you do 5k clutch drops
I replaced my clutch few weeks ago. Was able to remove and reuse old seal. Usually I replace this stuff but I didn't know there is one and didn't have it ordered. Realized that it's only for grease and reused old one (looked good)
That seal looks like a joke
I'm just curious how many miles it took to wear out bearing?My theory is that because of heat grease can get liquid in our cars. And also because of RPM's. But that bearing only work when you disengage clutch. And it only works hard when you do 5k clutch drops
I replaced my clutch few weeks ago. Was able to remove and reuse old seal. Usually I replace this stuff but I didn't know there is one and didn't have it ordered. Realized that it's only for grease and reused old one (looked good)
That seal looks like a joke
The seal may look like a joke, but it works if properly installed.
In my case, the bearing failed about 20-->30K after a reman engine was installed. When I pulled the tranny, most of the seal was gone and so was all of the grease. (I presume this was due to improper installation.) The bearing was also destroyed--as in broken apart. I actually heard the bearing fail when I started the car one day, and it breifly bound the input shaft preventing me from releasing the clutch and/or shifting until the fragments cleared. It also damaged the input shaft bearing surface.
For the repair, I made a concentric tool to properly seat the bearing and seal and have not had a pilot bearing issue since. It's been about five years and 60-->70K miles now.
You are correct in your suggestion that both heat and centrifugal forces (rpm) will cause the grease to migrate from the bearing and it's bore. Hence the requirement for a seal. BTW: The temperature at which a grease will soften and start to liquify is known as its "drop point."
04-22-07, 08:59 PM
#11
Even if you use a clutch alignment tool, it can be off. For some reason, last time I installed my trans, I couldn't get everything to slide together nicely. I ended up using the "depth" end of my dial calipers to measure clutch disk distance from the ring gear at three points around the flywheel to get it centered up perfectly. The transmission slid right in after that.
04-23-07, 06:45 PM
#14
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Originally Posted by poss
Even if you use a clutch alignment tool, it can be off. For some reason, last time I installed my trans, I couldn't get everything to slide together nicely. I ended up using the "depth" end of my dial calipers to measure clutch disk distance from the ring gear at three points around the flywheel to get it centered up perfectly. The transmission slid right in after that.
The tool can be slanted enough while it is inserted, to cause mis-alignment.
It all comes down to how well you know and use your tools. Some got ity, and some do not!
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