russell

I'm about to purchase a 93 FD and the only mods it has is an intake and DP. When i test drove it, it hit 12psi. Is that normal with those two mods? Sorry if this is a dumb post..........Russell

rynberg

It's normal but not a good sign. You should really be limiting boost to 10 psi with the stock ecu. It's your call about the motor's condition, I would get a compression check before buying (any FD for that matter).

russell

It has 71k on it, with the stock motor still. It comes with an exotic car warrenty. How do i limit the boost? Other than keeping my foot off the gas. I know that the motor don't last long, but the warrenty covers the motor and tranny. So if it does has low compression i will get a new motor.

rynberg

You buy a manual or electronic boost controller. I recommend the Profec B (not the new Spec II, try to find an original one used).

BTW, don't buy a car with a low compression motor with the assumption that the warranty will cover the motor. That's a VERY BAD assumption. If the motor is almost toast, use that as a bargaining chip and count on having to pay for a new motor yourself. That way, even if they don't cover it, you will be prepared.

russell

All the RX7's this dealer sells are supposedly compression checked by rotary performance.

russell

Out of curiosity, why not use the new spec II ?

rynberg

Is this LA Motorsports? I've heard good and bad things about them. I would trust the results from RP though, if they provide a sheet.

Three reasons:

1) A lot of people are having problems with the Spec IIs resetting data on shut off. This would get annoying really fast for me.

2) It's a lot more complicated to setup than the original. The original has basically two controls -- wastegate and boost level, which are easy to turn and look at *****.

and 3) A used Profec B will be cheaper than a new Spec II....

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Exactly. rynberg is da man.

Get the results of the compression test and verify exactly what this warranty covers so you know what you are dealing with....

russell

What is the sensus on ECU upgrades?

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

Fuel cut-off is a very, very scary thing!!

russell

What do you mean?

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

If you're boosting constant 12 psi, the stock ECU will not be able to maintain proper fuel amount/injection to supply excess boost. The stock ECU will automatically shut off the injectors, or fuel to the injectors (Fuel Cut-Off). Assuming the engine doesn't "pop" before FCO. It's not a good feeling when it happens. Sounds horrible. Makes you go Poo-Poo!!

russell

What ECU upgrade do most people recommend to combat this?

SpeedKing

iTrader: (4)

The most popular are the M2 and Pettit ECU upgrades, and A'PEXi's Power FC.

cagefreak

Wow you guys are scaring me. Test drove an FD that has a rebuilt motor with 10k on it. (Stock) The boost pattern went 11-8-10. I think I better get it's compression checked.

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

OR.....just get a boost controller like the Profec B.

Kento

11-8-10 for a boost pattern on a stock ECU isn't bad. The 11 psi on the primary happens once in a while on a good running stock setup, and the length of time it's at 11 psi isn't that long; it's when you run over 10 psi on the secondary where fuel cut happens, engine damage occurs, or you pop the motor.

SpeedKing

iTrader: (4)

I may be taking what you're saying out of context and correct me if I'm looking at this wrong, but what would be the point? If you're running say, intake, downpipe, catback exhaust, and intercooler and boosting to 12 PSI, why not opt for the ECU upgrade and take the horsepower advantage of the + 2 lbs. in boost instead of limiting yourself to 10?

rynberg

Because upgrading several components at once is expensive. I think a boost controller is a very wise purchase. Once you've installed a few mods, it will keep you at 10 psi until you get an ecu. Once you do, you can continue to get more consistent boost control results using the controller anyway. It's a win/win IMO.

tt2323

I got spikes of 12psi on my stock car...77k on original motor..A boost gauge is a MUST obviously...Boost can get crazy at times..if cost is an issue get a manual boost controller...better to be safe then sorry

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

Maintaining your boost at 10 psi does not mean that an increase in horsepower has been held. You have an aftermarket open intake and a DP. This combo creates a less restricted airflow and will/should increase your H-P a bit even if you maintain the boost at 10psi. Better to be safe than sorry. And for now (unless you've got the Benjamins) a boost controller is much less expensive cure for excessive boost than having to purchase an upgraded ECU or a PFC. In the mean time, try to stay away from WOT.

pugg57

what's a good MANUAL boost controller to get? for the time being, money is tight here... paying for my FD, part of my wedding (Maui) and the honeymoon (Paris)... so... yeah, electronic, seeing the Pettit is aobut $375, i'd rather spend $50ish now.

cagefreak

Oh thank god. I guess I was just scaring myself. Thanks for the info.

Initial FD

If this car is at LA Motorsports being sold by Lance I highly recommend not getting it. I bought mine from him and the AC went out on the way home, as well as the motor to the driver's side headlight. Then the door handle broke, followed by the rear view mirror falling off and tinting bubbling in the same night. The weather stripping on the drivers side door is now all fubared, and i had to buy a new one way check valve and toe-link and some oil seals just to be covered under that same warrenty. now that the secondary turbo is getting pressure I now realize the secondary injectors are clogged. The block is now leaking oil also. All this and he claimed the car checked out great. I might have just been screwed and bad timing and what not but i think he knew a lot more at the time of sale. My conclusion drawn is that Lance=Moron.

-P.S. i have had the car for only 4 months or so

turbosmitty

I don't know what to say.