bpdchief

iTrader: (7)

I'm getting ready to do an auto trans to manual trans swap and I am debating about whether or not I want to run an additional oil cooler and lines. I'm thinking I'm not going to and here's why. Mazda only gave the Auto one oil cooler and one transmission cooler. So the engineers must have believed that one oil cooler would be sufficient for the REW. I can't see any correlation to higher oil temps just because you change out a tranny. No engine oil flows to the tranny. If anything, you would think the auto tranny would produce more ambient heat. I do not race my car, track it, or auto x it, but hey I admit it, I get on it pretty hard sometimes. Here's the question, Do we really need two oil coolers for a daily driver? Yes or no? And swap guys, any issues with oil temps after the swap?

7_rocket

iTrader: (6)

Yes

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the automatic cars get a single cooler for two reasons.

first, the transmission needs a cooler, so there isn't room for a second engine cooler. secondly, the a/t makes the engine spend more time at a lower Rpm.

if you're doing an a/t to m/t swap i see no reason you need to go to dual coolers right away, especially on a street car. put an oil temp gauge on it and see what temps are like.

also there are a few members who have a single cooler with a fan, so that is an option too.

Jspaid142

iTrader: (3)

Yes, you should just run the dual coolers. Not only do you get added oil capacity but it most definitely helps keep your temperatures in check. This is more so for cars that driven hard.

DaveW

My "93 Base FD has only one oil cooler and it came that way new. Even for short track runs I noticed no issues because of that. Now it's just used on the street, and for sure no problem.

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

^There are lots of fd's that lived a full life with one stock oil cooler.
However, Mazda saw fit to put dual oil coolers on the R models, and if you intend your car for heavy duty they are a good idea.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

The op wont require dual oil coolers, and neither will most cars that only live on the street. Oil temp is all about RPM, how much time are you going to spend above 4k?

TomU

iTrader: (11)

Generally this is the case for a street driven non-modified FD, but if the car is street driven in New Mexico, dual coolers may be cheap insurance (used stock coolers), along with an aluminum radiator. It's also always good to install an aftermarket water temp gauge as the stock gauge sucks.

DaveW

You can linearize the stock gauge:

http://redirect.viglink.com/?format=...structions.zip

I did that and it works well.

bpdchief

iTrader: (7)

Thank you all for the replies. Right now where I am in New Mexico it's 19 degrees outside and even in the summer, Temps are not that bad. We get a few hot days but nothing like Arizona experiences. I like the idea of the increased oil capacity, but not sure that the second cooler is really necessary at this point. I'm a freak about keeping engine temps where they should be. I have an aftermarket temp gauge, the FC thermoswitch, and when I had the PFC in it, monitored the water temp constantly. Lots of stuff removed from the bay and I have a feed hood which gets rid of that heat pretty quickly. I think I'll probably install an oil temp gauge as suggested to go along with my temp gauge, my oil pressure gauge, my boost gauge, and my afr gauge, lol. Oh yeah, in my mind, she's always operating above 4K, but in reality, she lives in the garage...a lot.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

I just read through the entire thread and if it's a stock powered street only FD that doesn't get driven 'spiritedly' then I suppose you're ok with one.

However, oil plays a very big role in cooling the internals of the rotary engine, and it leads a very hard life inside the 13B due to things like the stationary gear/rotor gear interface causing a shearing effect. It's very important to keep your oil temps in check--- piston engines can run much higher temps safely than we can.

Re: putting complete faith in what the engineers had in mind: these are the same engineers that gave us a plastic AST, thin plastic radiator, precat inches away from the twin turbos, coolant temp gauge that goes from 'normal' to 'engine hosed' in a few seconds, and rad fans that don't come on high til 105 degrees.

One thing I've learned in 20 years of playing with these cars: overbuild your fuel system, and overbuild your cooling system. Just sayin'

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

+1. There really is no downside in this. I would not rule out dual coolers Chief. If you watch the FS section and can pickup a set of OEM with lines reasonably, do it as time and budget allows.
One other option I'd throw out is a boost activated WI system. It's inexpensive, reliable and removes a lot of load on the rest of the cooling system (including oil). It all but eliminates temp spiking during periods of boost...and you also get knock and carbon control. You can keep it almost invisible under the hood too.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i put an oil temp gauge in my R1, at the oil filter pedestal, and i found that oil temps followed vehicle speed. anything over 40mph, and oil temps were 180f, pretty much no matter what. under 40 mph, and it would gradually peg the gauge (240f? i picked the wrong temp range).

we know that WOT oil temps around 180f are about ideal, but idling in traffic 220f is actually probably better, there is no load on the engine, and 220f+ will start to burn off all the water, and other crap that gets in the oil.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

To the OP

Do you NEED one? For your purposes, no. However Goodfella makes an excellent point:

With that said, my FD came with one cooler but I'm getting a second one put on to keep the car running even cooler. My thoughts are as follows: The less hard the coolant system has to work, the better for the car overall

bpdchief

iTrader: (7)

I'm starting to agree. I've been doing lots of research and have determined that two are best. The ONLY engine upgrade that Mazda made to the R1 and R2 was an additional oil cooler. That means that someon in Mazda felt that one was not enough. People have reported that with dual oil coolers, oil temps follow water temps pretty closely. Single cooler oil temps are usually 5-10 centigrade degrees hotter that coolant temps. One guy reported 3-5 centigrade drop in coolant temps as well when a second cooler was added. So, there it is. And yes Jim, and Goodfellas I'm sure I won't tackle this right away but over time. I think I'll be okay for a little while. Besides I'm adding a 99 spec front which means I'm probably going to have to do some duct work. Owning this thing is kinda like owning a boat. Just keep dumping money in. But damn she's sexy. ��

Spalato

iTrader: (33)

Not sure if this is true, but I read somewhere that all Australian and Euro market FD's had dual oil coolers as standard equipement. So if that's true, then you know what you gotta do

Ceylon

iTrader: (3)

That is true, but they also only had the option of one model, so it had to really. It was spec'd with everything a US R1 has, but also everything a US touring has too... That and a few extras like headlight washers, leveling headlights, rear fogs etc.

I think this thread covers it pretty well, two oil coolers are preferable for any car and at the price of the parts to make the change, why wouldn't you .

adam c

iTrader: (2)

You dont need two coolers unless you are road racing your car. That being said, there is no harm in having them.

7_rocket

iTrader: (6)

My Car is a street car and I recently added the R1 dual oil coolers with ducting. Fellow members say you don't need it but I rather be safe than sorry

It's a cheap upgrade too

Moe Greene

iTrader: (2)

I would say yes you need it. Why would you not spend the money on dual oil coolers? Honestly they are not that expensive, and the level of engine and turbo protection they provide outweigh the cost. Don't you want to have peace of mind when you drive the car? Going dual oil coolers will also let you push the car harder without worries of overheating/damage. Think of it as a reliability mod and just do it.

Moe Greene

iTrader: (2)

Words of wisdom!

Barry_Beef

The Job itself is a breeze. Just re-route the oil feed line. I'm quite happy I did mine, nothing like a nicely cooled FD.

My temp around town and highway driving before hand would sit between 80C-90C (176F -194F)
After the second cooler, the temp sits between 70C-80C ( 158F - 176F)

Can't complain about that for such a cheap mod to do. I'm yet to test them on the track

kensin

iTrader: (22)

I just installed mine last month along with just simple fab work to replace the rubber top part

bpdchief

iTrader: (7)

^^That's sweet! I ordered an oil cooler from another member here and its should be on its way to me soon. With lines and fittings I should be around $150.00 total. So yeah, why not? Plus, when I go to the manual trans I'm pulling the Auto trans cooler and there would just be this big hole there. I was under the car last night and noticed I don't have any ducts at all so I guess i'm going to be fabbing some up as well. And before I do that I guess I'll wait on the 99 spec bumper im putting in...

bpdchief

iTrader: (7)

So more opinion needed. I just scored a real Mazda 99 spec bumper for cheap from a good friend. Now when Mazda changed the front end, they did not make/manufacture/include ducts to the oil coolers. In other words, earlier models had oil cooler ducts, the 99s did not. Are they necessary? I know that Rmagic still makes 99 spec oil cooler ducts and they are available from RHD Japan for about 150.00 bucks. 4-6 week manufacture time as they are made to order and then I'm sure shipping from Japan is expensive. So 2 month wait time at least. Are the cooler ducts necessary? Yes or no? And please let me know why whichever way you answer.