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List of projects included:
Remove power steering and install a manual steering rack.
Remove abs, install proportioning valve.
Replace brake lines with stainless.
Remove all solenoids except the fuel pressure reg.
Remove engine harness and rewrap, integrating resistors inside.
Remove all electrics from the transmission except the speedo.
Full block off plate set, except ISC.
The "After" on the wiring and solenoid rack: http://www.stlrx7club.com/images/rx7...ngafterwow.htm
Pulley set, all that is left is water and alt.
Removal of A/C system, including condenser and all that.
Move the front relay panel over to the side where it should be.
Installation and fabrication of intercooler mounting. (NPR Med)
Move the throttle cable where it belongs, out of the way.
Midpipe with restrictor plates (still have M2)
M2 Stage 3 ECU
Blitz DualSBC Boost controller
Hmmm, I think that is most of it. It was amazing how much crap came out of the wiring harnesses, see the pics. I still have the suspension to do, but that will have to wait until its not so nice out
And yes, yes, the vaccuum hoses don't match, etc, etc......... They are all going to be black, and the pulley will not be blue they are disgusting. Piping I am going to try to get bent in the next few days, and have UIM/LIM/TB to polish along with the intercooler and the piping. Ways to go, but just thought I would share cause I am excited to have it on the ground again!
Also, the manual rack was/is a great mod. It is much, much easier to turn then the power rack converted. I tried mine out just with it looped, and the true manual rack feels much more like it 'should'. Mounted right up to the steering shaft, and to the mounts themselves with little modification. For the tie rod ends I used a different japanese car's rod end (not sure which, just that it says Japan on them many thanks to Advanced Auto for letting me go through all their boxes of rod ends....).
Some really nice work - I'm impressed.....and now I want to steal some of your footwork (if that's ok) since I've been wanting to do some of these same projects.
Some of these questions are for you and others for other people reading who might have used these components. I realize that you're going to probably do a write up soon, but maybe this will give you a good outline as I really just want to know 'where/how you got stuff' and part #s
what year/model is the rack off of? I'm assuming 2nd gen rx7...? So is there really no in depth fabrication needed to mount this into the car? from what you have said and the pictures, it looks like the pinion shaft and rods are the same length and everything as stock. How it is mounted, is it changing the angles of how the rods are moving at all??
ABS removal and proportioning valve:
I was trying to trace everything from the pictures, but maybe it will just be easier to ask how the lines are routed. maybe you can make a diagram? I'm about 75% sure once I start really digging into this, it will seem like a stupid question. Summit part #s please.
has anyone used this IC on high boost applications? what are the measurements of the core? From the pictures, it looks pretty good in sq-in, but somewhat thin. What are the inlet/outlet diameters? I think I want one - it looks easy to mount!
I think you've just inspired me to get off my *** and start doing some real work on my FD again (besides rebuilding motors ) i LOVE simplicity and efficiency and getting all of the crap i'm not using out of the car...
Thanks man. Let's get the manual rack out of the way, as I have had lots of questions about it.
Starting with R&R of the rack itself, its is NOT that hard to take out. There are two ways of doing it, one being the shop manual version of lowering the cross member, which would be a total PITA with supporting the engine and dealing with all that. The other is moving/removing the raditor, at least enough to get the lower mounting tab/bracket off. The sway bar will also have to be removed, but that is no big deal. Once those brackets are off, the rack can nearly slip right out! The radiator is a breeze, and most of us need to change our engine coolant anyways.
As for the year/etc; you need to get the manual rack out of an 87-88.
Make sure it comes with:
-The mounting brackets. You *have* to have these to get the rack installed in the FD
-The steering shaft all the way up to the mount near the firewall.
There are some differences in the two shafts. The power rack's shaft's mount is larger then the manual rack. The mount at the steering shaft up top is the same. Basically, you take the steering shaft that comes with the manual rack and mount it to the FD's shaft up high, the mount at the firewall. It goes right in.
I paid $75 for mine at a local junkyard.
Other then that, this thing will go right in. The brackets are a pain to get them lined up, as the manual rack's hole are slightly different than the FD's. You can get them mounted, and the rack is very secure. The rack bushings may also have to be modded a little bit. The big thing is to make sure the rack can't move side to side. You will only use one side of bolts in the 'main' bracket from the manual rack. (the manual mount in the FC has two)
The steering shaft is a breeze. Bolt it in. If you still have your A/C in, it will be more difficult to get to, but will still be a drop in with the FC's steering shaft.
The tie rods, you will just use the ones that come with the manual rack. However, the tie rods *ends* are a different story. There are a few people that were able to use the tie rods and the tie rod ends off the manual rack and just bolt them up. I had some issues with that, one being the FC's tie rod ends bend up slightly, are aren't perfectly straight like the FD's. The other issue I personally had, and I didn't find anyone that has installed this rack with the same issue...is the mounting to the steering knuckle itself. My FD's knuckles/tie rods had a larger hole then normal, or the factory tie rod ends for the FC I got (new, and several sets at that) were just too small. You would bolt the tie rod up and it would basically seize the rod end up, castle nut goes way down on the bolt..... Not good. Ordered power rack tie rod ends for the FC. No luck. Finally just took the FC rod end, the FD rod end, and a dial caliper up to Advance Auto Parts and took over their suspension stock for a few. Box by box, I finally ran across TRW/Mogul part number ES2814, and it was *perfect* It fits the FD steering knuckle perfectly, as it is *exactly* the same sizing as the factory FD's. It also is perfectly straight, no steering geometry change at all. And lastly, it is the same length as the FC's rod end (a little longer then the FD's, as the FC's rack tie rods are a little shorter.
I tried my power rack without the pump, just looping the lines. I must say that its *much* easier to turn the wheel then the converted power rack. It is slightly more turning lock to lock; a little under 3.5 turns (vs. 3.0 for the factory rack) Which is *very* tolerable. I am extremely happy with this mod so far.
Last edited by Jason93RX7R1; 09-18-03 at 10:21 AM.
A Photo is attached showing the majority of the connections.
I have found a good write-up on this, thanks to jspecracer. Here's clips from the writeup, which I modded slightly as I did it, to clarify.
This is the complete how-to on removing your ABS system, and installing a brake balancer. ABS is a valuable safty feature in any car. Do this mod at your own risk.
The parts list:
Brake balancer, Summit part #SUM-G3905, same as wilwood part number #WIL-260-2220 at Summit, just $8 less.
3/16" line, or Metric line (basic autozone stuff)
A T-Fitting. (I just ordered a rear T for the FD from Malloy)
10mm line wrench
3/8 line wrench
socket set with extensions
double flare took kit(IMPORTANT BUY FROM SEARS OR BETTER QUALITY,SNAP ON, ETC.)
Removal of the ABS:
Remove all brake lines from the ABS system, then there are 4 12mm nuts holding the ABS unit to the car, after that unplug the 2 plugs and remove the ABS unit from the car. Next remove all the brake lines from the master cylinder , and along the firewall. When you are finished you will have one line coming out of each front wheel well, and one line to the left and below the brake booster for the rear.
How this will all come together:
The RX-7 uses 10mm metric lines, while the balancer valve uses standard 3/16 thread fittings. You will need to make some custom lines with one metric, and one standard fitting on each line.
The front brakes are all metric. T them together at the master cylinder with the FD T as show in the pic.
Cut the end off of a new 14" metric brake line and add a standard fitting, and flare. The metric end goes to the master cylinder, the standard end to the brake balancer (IN) port. Next take a new 12" metric brake line, cut, add standard fitting, and flare. Standard fitting goes to the balancer out, metric fitting goes to the connector near the brake booster for the rear brakes.
Bleed in the following sequence, RR,LR,RF,LF
A few notes on this project.
As much as I tried it's hard to say exactly how many of what length lines you will need, be safe, buy extra and just return what you do not use.
If you are not comfortable using a flaring tool have someone else do it. Making brake lines is a serious task, a leaking brake system can lead to accident or death!
You will be able to use the factory joint by the master cylinder over on the passenger side to mate a line to the right front brake. I ordered the factory FD rear T fitting shown in the pics from Malloy, mates right up for the front brakes.
Makes working with the turbos about a zillion times easier, and also the wiring harness, etc etc etc....
Last edited by Jason93RX7R1; 09-18-03 at 11:10 AM.
Maybe you mentioned it I didnt read everything just looked at the 100 pics....Is it just electrical tape around the harness and other stuff now? Is there another material you could have used that would be better?
The shiney electrical tape is only temporary. The more 'rubber' looking stuff is what will be on all of it. I ran out of it, and since its so easy to get to I am going to do it when I R&R the manifold again to put the polished one on there.
Well, nothing like boosting to 1.4bar+ on the ol' FD....20.5 baby! Lucky the motor is still together, good thing its pig rich.... At least I know the turbos still work
Port wastgate time....
However, anyone know about ignition breakup? I have some hesitation and that is what it feels like. Basically like the ignition is turning on and off. I found that if I hold the throttle down it will 'catch up' so to speak, and finally come "on" Very, very rough idle. Brand new plugs, everything seems fine. Was thinking possible TPS sensor issues, maybe ignition itself, any fuel issues that can cause this?
But OMFG, once it comes on............
Last edited by Jason93RX7R1; 09-19-03 at 05:24 PM.
No, it only did that *once*. Boost controller set wrong. Oops. Its fine though. Lucky it had good gas in it. It will run just fine on boost. I don't think its ignition, that was just how it was acting. I am pretty sure its fuel related. I drome 25 miles or so and using a 1/2 tank of gas getting it home. Once under boost its fine, and runs relatively strong. Its rather confusing. I am going to check TPS in a bit, and go from there. Anyone have any ideas? I have an M2 Stage III for the time being, until I get a PFC. All emissions stuff is gone, no check engine lights, so its not in limp mode.