mulcryant

so basically im gathering and have most of the supplies but i wanna get peoples opinions on this
hp goals 300ish
not a daily**
wanting to make choo choo sounds
i have a freshly rebuilt turbo from a turbo 2 with the manifold and some minor mods to it
tii injectors
tii maf
stock oil lines

what i need is
coolant lines
intercooler
map sensor
and or turbo 2 ecu? [ ive been researching but most of what i come up with is outdated data so what would be my best choice for ecu?]
i was thinking of fitting a turbo 2 intake
obviously get a closing kit and rebuild the 13b and drill out the stock holes for the oil drain and oil inlet
do a water jacket mod while im in there and some type of porting

so im estimating about another 1500 down the hole plus the 500 im already in orrrrr

buy the turbo 2 with tranny and ecu and everything else and rebuild it and spend another say 2700 to buy all of the above plus a driveshaft from mazdatrix from turbo 2 to n/a diff


with all and all the 1500 sounds better in my opinion but what if i want to push for more horsepower than 300
how much can these high compression n/a rotaries take on a freshly built motor.
Im looking for something somewhat reliable

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

That turbo won't make 300 (wheel) HP.

Won't really help unless you intend to drill/tap out the stock oil supply hole, which is a major pain in the *** and not in a good location. Use a T fitting to get you oil from the oil pressure sender port. Adding the oil drain to the front cover is a lot easier which uses the stock line. Or just drain to the oil pan.

If you intend to use the turbo AFM, you need the turbo ECU or a standalone. And that said, the turbo ECU is the minimum upgrade. Even it runs fairly dangerous timing under boost and using an FCD makes that worse as it doesn't drop timing. I'd suggest at least a programmable factory ECU like the RTek. Standalone is more ideal but that is also far more involved.

Seems like the easiest way.

Water jacket mod? As in, grinding fins into the jacket around the spark plug holes? Well, if you are looking for a make-work project. At your power level it won't provide an advantage. As well, I'd suggest NOT porting the 6 port block at your power level. It's not necessary and will just reduce low end.

1000HP.

But the parameters to achieve that might be out of your budget.

SIDEWAYZE_FC

iTrader: (1)

welcome mulcryant, hope you dont get flamed too much, but this has been covered a couple times. listen to aaron cake he knows his rx7 stuff. Porting The 4 Port Turbo II Lower Intake To Fit The 6 Port NA Block
In my 88 rx7 I have a 6 port block with pretty much s5 turbo everything else. Turbo intake, FMIC, went with stock t2 ecu then to Rtek 1.7 and bigger injectors.
Dont forget to upgrade your fuel pump as well!
just keep doing research for days on end before asking questions lol people will prob give you crap no matter what though.

mulcryant

]That turbo won't make 300 (wheel) HP.

It was modified with a different front and some other stuff

Won't really help unless you intend to drill/tap out the stock oil supply hole, which is a major pain in the *** and not in a good location. Use a T fitting to get you oil from the oil pressure sender port. Adding the oil drain to the front cover is a lot easier which uses the stock line. Or just drain to the oil pan.

I was thinking of drilling it when it was apart,

If you intend to use the turbo AFM, you need the turbo ECU or a standalone. And that said, the turbo ECU is the minimum upgrade. Even it runs fairly dangerous timing under boost and using an FCD makes that worse as it doesn't drop timing. I'd suggest at least a programmable factory ECU like the RTek. Standalone is more ideal but that is also far more involved.

Okay so rtek it is I'm fine with that

Seems like the easiest way.



Water jacket mod? As in, grinding fins into the jacket around the spark plug holes? Well, if you are looking for a make-work project. At your power level it won't provide an advantage. As well, I'd suggest NOT porting the 6 port block at your power level. It's not necessary and will just reduce low end.

Okay dually noted

1000HP.

But the parameters to achieve that might be out of your budget.

I'm not trying to cheap out I don't mind spending some money this is my weekend toy
So it is achievable then with a 6 port

So then let me change it on you with what I have what would you do to achieve 300-400?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

bigger turbo. high compression engines have to run less boost so you are more limited in your turbo choices and their ability to make your goals at your target boost.

without knowing squat about your turbo aside from it is apparenly a hybrid, we can't even guess as to how much power it can possibly make at X amount of boost. there is also tons of other variables as to how much power a car will make from one build to the next.

400 is about the most you could expect from ANY hybrid turbo on a proper turbo low compression engine, you will make even less since you likely wont be maxing out your turbo with lower boost.

mulcryant

Thank you all for not just straight up flaming me I promise I've been reading as much as I can. I'll try and get some more info on my turbo I guess for now I'll get to finding an rtek.
It's harder than a v8 swap but I'd rather keep my rotary

SIDEWAYZE_FC

iTrader: (1)

Also do some research on s4 rear iron having a weak spot under the oil filter. My last turbo 6port was built by someone else but aggressive port and I put a eBay t70 turbo on it, not sure HP but cracked the block right under the oil filter. Heard it is an s4 thing.

mulcryant

I have an s5 so hopefully I don't have that problem, I think for ecu I'm going to do the adaptronic which seems good a big on the higher side but I think it's the best choice

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

S5 n/a engines have weak castings also, only the revised plates sold by mazda were recast as well as some of the late S5 turbo engines.

in fact, if yours is an S5 n/a you have a 9.7:1 compression engine which is one the least tolerable engines to turbo next to the renesis. good luck, you may need it... but 400 is quite an unlikely target with that configuration, you should be shooting for something like 300. the Rtek isn't a good ECU for 400whp anyways as it is rather limited with the injector sizes and the airflow meter.

mulcryant

Okay well where can I get some better casting plates then? I'll add those to my list of parts to buy

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

mazdatrix has the updated S5 rear for about $500 a pop(make sure they check, not all are the revised plates). or you can stud the engine with one of the many kits out there for less.